Just to be accurate, pruning doesn't promote growth, in fact, the practice is a setback to growth and the lost potential can never be regained. Pruning temporarily alters the growth habit of the plant by interfering with the balance of growth regulators. Once the growth regulators regain their natural balance, the plant reverts to it's former growth habits. Now, just because I said that pruning sets back growth and the lost potential can't be regained doesn't mean I think pruning is bad. I mean, I DO think bad (inappropriate) pruning is bad, but appropriate pruning is good .... even when you're pruning roots. For the most part, I'm not interested in growing a plant unless it can be pruned or otherwise manipulated into a form that is both evocative and natural in appearance, so I'm a strong proponent of getting rid of what doesn't look good or pruning in order to produce a desirable outcome. If you want growth low on the trunks, you need to get the plant healthy and prune fairly hard while the plant is growing well - in summer. If you're interested, we can talk in more exact terms, but the generalities would go something like this: * Get the plant outdoors as soon as temps allow so you can get the plant started on the road back to good health. * Get and keep your watering under control until after you repot, when your soil should do 90% of the regulating - removing that burden from your shoulders. * Get started on a good nutritional supplementation program and stick to it. It will be VERY easy once you repot into an appropriate medium. * Don't prune until after you've repotted into an appropriate soil and the plant is pushing new growth. * Once you see new growth after repotting, prune back hard. * Force the tree to become full by constant pinching. Whenever a branch has 3 or 4 leaves on it, cut it back (pinch it) to 2 leaves. You'll get a new branch from the axil (crotch) of each leaf. When these new branches have 3-4 leaves, pinch back to 2 leaves again. No branch should ever have more than 4 leaves and no branches should have older leaves dropping off unless there is a branch in the leaf axil. If you start planning now (and you live in the Northern Hemisphere), you should be able to have your plant back on track by August. Al

just at thought about growth direction. Plant normally grow towards the light so if you want your plant to do that then place it where there's a good overhead light source. For plants to bush out, you need to nip off the leader so that would be the tip of your tree. That should force out branches - but it takes time to happen.

The best place is to use the House Plants forum on this site as yours is a house plant. This forum is for edible figs. They are very good folks over there and I am sure they can help. Good luck.

I can't see anything wrong with your plant, but there's a lot of mis-information regarding housplant care, so this info below will help keep your plant on the right track. FLFs love lots of light, eastern light is not very strong and this plant would do best right up in front of an unobstructed south facing window. If it can only reside in this room, it needs to be right in front of the window without the blinds blocking the light. You could even place in on a plant stand or table so that the leaves can catch as many rays as possible. I'm not sure the mirror has any benefit since the reflected light is diffused, but it's certainly not hurting anything. I would however stop misting because it does not improve humidity and sometimes invites pests. If you're interested in increasing humidity you should look into using a pebble tray, but the humidity in the South-East during winter isn't too bad, so it's up to you. The leaves may be drooping due to the soil being too dry currently or the soil retaining too much water. I don't think that plastic bag under the pot is a good idea as it can trap moisture inside the pot. Watering with three cups of water likely didn't water the plant thoroughly. Good watering practice is to insert a wooden dowel or bamboo chopstick all the way to the bottom of the soil - some people think checking the soil with your finger is effective, but it only evaluates the top inch, the bottom soil could still be soggy (over-watering is a common issue). If the dowel comes out wet with soil clinging to it, the soil is still wet and it is not time to water. Check every few days until the dowel comes out clean and dry. Then water thoroughly so that water flows freely out of the drainage holes in the bottom and then let it rest for about 20 min so the excess water can drain out, this is easiest in the shower or kitchen sink. Don't water again until your dowel is reading dry again.