Heartily recommend RAB as well, after having gone through some mid range, to the most expensive lights they have at both big home stores - all of which are frankly, awful in terms of reliability and durability. I bought one of these (see link below): installed it, tested it, and was so impressed I ordered two more. Just spectacular build quality, and not but about $10 more than the most expensive (junk) at HD or Lowes. Not to mention aesthetically impressive, with the bold, modernistic design (but not too out there, just enough to make you appreciate that it's not the same old ugly Heath/Zenith stuff that you see on every rental property). I would have preferred their $400 model, but wayyy too much for my budget, especially considering I need about 4 of these. I paid around $100 each. Here is a link that might be useful: RAB Stealth Motion Detector Lamp

Hi Monica, Thanks for your feedback. Right, recirc hot water results in instant hot water. There are two ways to do it: (1) add a crossover device to the furthest fixture or (2) run a return line from the furthest device back to a pump at the water heater. I had the walls open, so I did #2 (pump: Grundfos). Though it saves on water, the cost of equipment and installation and additional energy usage makes the main benefit convenience rather than cost savings. I would not tile without a laser -- they are not expensive and I like perfection. I use the Craftsman 2-beam, self-leveling laser level, $85 at Sears. For lasering walls, I clamp the laser base to a ZipWall pole and move the laser up and down the pole, as needed -- a good enough system for occasional use. For large format tile, be sure your surface is absolutely f-l-a-t. Good luck with your project!

Have you talked to your electrician/contractor about putting them on a timer instead? I would imagine you will have some sort of home control system in a new house? I also implore you to make sure you realize you cannot just use an LED bulb...........it has to be integrated. https://www.lampsplus.com/products/westray-11-and-one-half-inchh-black-motion-sensor-led-outdoor-wall-light__7k617.html#productDetailsSection Also as someone who has played this game of code compliance...........you can always put up cheap fixtures to pass code, then replace with fixtures you really like. that includes using something with a fluorescent just to keep the cost down. IDK what part of CA you are in but in most cases, anything within 10 miles of the ocean should look to brass or copper fixtures for longevity. I would think to put up the ones you found on sides and back as well and then you can (im pretty sure) have a company like Arroyo C. put in the photocell/ d/d sensors. Also I have personally installed both for customers before. Go to a lighting showroom, and ask about ADL parts book PS screw-in sensors will not pass code, the idea is that you cannot change it out after they leave so they want ti to be something that is built into the fixture.

I'd recommend following the Dark Sky guidelines that suggest lighting only the places needed, not over-lighting, only shining lights downward, and using low-temperature lights: Intl Dark Sky Association > Outdoor Lighting Basics