i would not be planting in August ... see link about timing.. and the rest of the process ...

https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub

if the plants are zone proper.. for your area ... then they wont care about what you consider a cold winter ... try not to kill them with too much love.. by treating them like babies requiring swaddling ...

time it properly.. plant it proper for your soil ... water them properly deep into fall ..... no fert.. no amendments .... and you should win ...

ken

I'm not sure, but it seems the crape myrtles - which are 4' tall and in one gallon pots - are constantly stressed due to the small containers they are in. Since I am often away for a few days at a time right now, I can't keep them properly watered. I did read the article (thanks for the link) but I think if I plant them now - even though it's August - and mulch them it would be less stress on them in the long run and give them a healthier start going into winter?

Much of what I read says the crape myrtles are iffy in my zone - that's why I was wondering if protection their first year could help them get established - but I probably am being a worry-wort in that regard! Thanks for responding to my questions...

It is generally strongly recommended that plants that are going to be stressed by a season are planted to give them as much time as possible to establish before that season rolls around. So a marginally hardy plant would be planted in spring, not late summer.

if you will be gone and cant water the pots.. how do you keep them properly watered in the ground .. after you disturb the root mass with planting ...

do as you wish.. good luck... ken

I never meant to suggest I wouldn't follow the advice I was given...I was trying to explain where my concerns were with the exposed and tiny pots they are in. To avoid disturbing the roots, I am thinking about heeling the potted plants in a spot that keeps afternoon shade and then mulching them (and thereby not disturbing the roots), trying to conserve what watering and moisture they get every couple of days until proper planting times roll around...I think that's a good compromise between leaving them exposed to desiccating breezes and heat, and flat-out disturbing the roots at the wrong time of year...

As for winter protection, quite a bit depends on your usual winter lows. Do they tend to be only slightly below 0 or do they frequently go down into the -5 to -10 range? If it's the latter, the crape myrtles will probably be dieback shrubs in most years. Red Select and especially Bloodgood are hardy and vigorous Japanese maples once they have become established. So what can you do to help these small plants through their first winter? Mulch heavily with bark, straw or conifer needles. This helps prolong root growth and stabilizes soil temperatures. Protect the maples with a hardware cloth cylinder to prevent damage from mice, voles, etc. A burlap screen not actually touching the trees will also protect the thin Japanese maple bark from winter sun and wind desiccation.

Thanks! Our average winter lows are in the low 20s. We get a few minus single digits and minus teens each year, but not many. Most of my neighbors have various Japanese Maples which seem to thrive here, and I appreciate your advice on how to help mine through their first winter, as they are still very small and thin. Our winters are very windy in this area, so the tips in regard to winter desiccation is especially helpful!

I am thinking about heeling the potted plants in a spot that keeps
afternoon shade and then mulching them (and thereby not disturbing the
roots), trying to conserve what watering and moisture they get every
couple of days until proper planting times roll around...

==>> brilliant plan ... water the pots when needed ... if mulched.. it might only be once a week ... insert finger in find out ... drying for a day or two ... in shade.. mulched.. etc.. should not be all that big a deal ...

and i presume.. the soil you are going to heal them into.. has proper drainage ... ?

ken

Yes, fortunately I have excellent drainage in my entire yard. My yard, which is 50' by 145', has a consistent slope that gradually increases from roughly 5% to about 15% at the lower back yard. The soil itself is a blend of about 50% clay and 50% loam, but it still drains beautifully (thank heavens! lol). I've been planting most of my yard with native shrubs and plants that are bee, butterfly (for nectar and larvae), and winter season bird food sources and I've been pleased that everything has thrived with no amending the soil on my part. In early spring I planted a 80' hedge of dormant native viburnums (native to where I live in the Appalachians) and they've done splendidly while being essentially ignored. I can't wait to see the local wildlife enjoy them!

I'm glad you like the idea of heeling the potted plants, I think that will relieve the most stress from them until I plant in the fall. I was unaware how extremely stressful it is to plant shrubs and trees when they are not dormant. Thanks to all of you for your help!

crepe myrtles will be die-back perennials in zone 6, burlap with leaves is more than enough for this. The japanese maple should be fine without protection, hardy to zone 5. Actually the general rule is: potted stock can be planted any time. Unless you are in drought, go ahead and plant. btw, japanese maple is a tree

Thank you - no drought here, rain every few days...

Although often advocated in old gardening books, creating an area around a plant with burlap or anything else, then piling leaves in it is an extremely bad idea. Inevitably, the leaves become saturated with water, lose any insulation value they may have once had and provide ideal conditions for fungal infections, not to mention snug winter homes for mice, voles and other bark eating critters. Air circulation is important. Burlap provides shade and wind protection but should not touch the plant it's protecting. Even Z5 hardy Japanese maples will benefit from this sort of protection for the first winter or two when they are small and newly planted.

Ugh! I hadn't even thought of the mess wet, compacted leaves or hay would do. And I see so many people in the neighborhood doing this to hydrangeas and such in the winter...Since the two Japanese Maples are so young and tiny, I will put a square tomato cage (or something homemade and similar - I have a lot of hardwood stakes) around them wrapped in a layer of burlap. To protect them from the winter winds a bit their first year. Thank you!

I don't (usually) transplant anything shrubby from late spring to fall but I frequently plant container grown shrubs and trees throughout the summer. It is the growing season after all and unless there's a problem with overly tangled and potbound roots the plants should get a few extra weeks to settle in vs being stressed further all summer in a container which (in my garden at least) often misses a watering.

If there are circling roots at the bottom, pull them apart and spread a few out at the bottom of the hole before watering as you backfill. If there are only a few roots at the bottom, the soil will probably fall apart anyway and you can mix things a bit as you water and backfill.