It is one of the many hostas introduced by Mildred Seaver. She was known as the Queen of Hostas. Her introductions: Allan P. McConnell Allen C. Haskell Aventurine Blue Plate Special Bold and Brassy Christmas Gold Christmas Tree Crayons Daughter of Ledi Lantis Diane Gray Dalton Diane's Fancy Doctor Bill-Bob Don Juan Don Quixote Don Stevens Dragon Lady El Dorado Golden Rule Green Whiskers High Noon Hold the Phone Hugs and Kisses Humpbacked Whale Imperial Moth Ivory Pixie Kamona Komodo Dragon Lucy Vitols Mabel-Maria Herweg Marvelous Millie Muriel Seaver Brown Pike's Peak Queen of the Seas Red Salamander Reflected Glory Richard Taylor Richmond Richmond streaked Sea Angel Sea Angel Wings Sea Aquarius Sea Beacon Sea Biscuit Sea Blue Sea Blue Leather Sea Blue Monster Sea Bubbles Sea Bunny Sea Current Sea Dragon Sea Dream Sea Drift Sea Ebony Sea Fire Sea Foam Sea Frolic Sea Gentian Sea Gold Sea Gold Dust Sea Gold Star Sea Grotto Sea Gulf Stream1999 Sea Gull Sea Hero Sea High Noon Sea Lightning Sea Lotus Leaf Sea Mermaid Sea Mist Sea Monster Sea Nautilus Sea Nymph Sea Octopus Sea Peridot Sea Prize Sea Sapphire Sea Slate II Sea Sprite Sea Sunrise Sea Thunder Sea Tornado Sea Waves Sea White Gold Sea Wiggles Sea Yellow Sunrise Spilt Milk Spinning Wheel Split Personality Streaked Regal Sun Disk

Aveo, I haven't heard of Sans. 'Whale Tale'. I think Norma was going to get a better idea of what you got. The size and growth sounds like Mason Congo. but who knows. Can you put a few pictures on for us. Also if your in zone 10, outside should be ok and in some shade. As far as selling them, If they were named right, maybe you would have more hits.

first.. remove dead leaves ... if they were in the ground.. i would suggest that is where early slugs are hiding ... second ... you should be able to tell from the weight of the bag... how much water is in there ... if you had a grow bag of dry media ... im just making up numbers.. maybe it would weigh one pound ... if you can barely lift a bag .. and it feels like ten pounds.. well ... you have 9 pounds of water in there... just a little more than a gallon.. if that old 7 pound thing is correct ... what you should do over the summer.. is water a bag ... mark the date.. and not water it again.. until you see the plant wilting a bit ... then see how many days to took to dry ... and then water accordingly ... i think you ought to cut way back.. until you figure out some facts to work with ... until the high heat of summer hits.. i cant really think they need water every day .. especially when they havent spread out their water losing leaves to the atmosphere ... and keep track of spring rain amounts... to use in your equation ... my bottom line.. as usual ... try not to kill them with too much love.. and watering every day in march.. might just be that ... ken

So Al, you mentioned that sips of water are not the ideal way to water. As noted in the piece about watering with a 'tell', watering in sips ensures there is no way for the dissolved solids in tapwater and fertilizer solutions to be removed from the soil. Eventually, the concentration of dissolved solids can get so high, water is actually pulled OUT of cells instead of entering cells during the essential osmotic process. This results in the tearing of plasma from cell walls, which is why the technical name for the issue is 'plasmolysis'. We commonly know it as fertilizer burn. I usually water most of my plants ether by running water through them untill fully saturated, or place them in a bowl of water and let them drink from below. The former is a better choice than the later. It's far more effective at removing accumulating dissolved solids from the soil. But i Have always been nervous to do this with all of my sans. so I do just give them sips of water every other week or so. How do you transition from sips to full saturation while knowing the soil will not stay that way and dry out in the appropriate time? The best way is to use a medium that drains thoroughly without any extra effort or special considerations. That's what I do. There are four other ways which immediately come to mind. After flushing the soil thoroughly, you can: 1) Hold small containers over the sink and move the container downward before reversing direction sharply to upward. You'll immediately see Newton's First Law of Motion in effect as water in the pot continues moving downward after the reversal in direction. You can remove ALL perched/excess water from manageable pots using this bit of science. 2) Tipping the pot and allow it to drain thoroughly. This is most effective when there are drain holes through the bottom of the pot AT the sidewall and the drain hole is at it's lowest point (after tipping the pot. Compare image B to A below. 3) Use a wick, which is best positioned through a drain hole in the pot's bottom at the sidewall. Let the wick dangle over the edge of a sink with the pot tipped as in B, until the pot completely stops draining before returning it to a collection saucer. For large pots, you might need to lift them above the collection saucer so water can drain. The wick should never be allowed to dangle in the effluent that exits the drain hole. 4) Efficient utilization of ballast, set in place when the planting is established, can eliminate 95% or more of a planting's ability to hold perched/excess water. Once it's become a part of the planting, it works passively to displace almost all soil capable of holding perched water, which is enemy #1 when it comes to root health. I’m very confident that the damage is mechanical. Me too. Do I need to remove the leaf? Or will it stop? It's not necessary to remove the leaf. Plants create walls or barriers to decay and injuries to protect viable parts of the organism. Dr. Alex Shigo wrote extensively about trees' ability to protect themselves this way, and came up with the acronym C.O.D.I.T., for compartmentalization of decay in trees, though the process is not limited to trees alone. So, if you remove the leaf, base your decision on whether or not you think the appearance of that particular leaf is tolerable. The plant would prefer that you keep it, and can chemically recognize when it's time to shed the leaf if/when it changes from an asset to a liability. Al