It is some kind of damping-off fungus that probably came from your basement. These funguses will usually die off in the heat and sunlight. In the meantime, trim off the affected leaves. I will usually not trim leaves that are just beginning to get infected if I think I might be pruning back too much -- the plant needs some leaves to photosynthesize. The new growth usually doesn't get infected too much. This is not powdery mildew, which kills cucumbers within a week or so of being visible. Most of your plants should survive without much of a setback. Cucumbers are really finicky though, especially about being cold at all.

ellie - The below link is a thread I wrote about how to post your pictures to the Garden Web Forums. Posting a snap or two of your problem/s will help those who wish to help you, and will get you a more accurate and helpful response. Greg Southern Nevada Here is a link that might be useful: Posting Pictures On Garden Web Forums

It does match the description and the pictures, some vines have completely dried up, and I do have the cucumber beetles, but I'm not seeing the "bacterial slime". I've tried cutting severely affected stems and slightly affected leaves, but I don't see the liquid. I know that doesn't mean it's not bacterial wilt, but there is that. I did plant them a bit late (late May not mid June as recommended), but as seedlings. They could have gotten it at the nursery or after transplanting. It doesn't sound like there is anything I can do at this point except harvest the cucumbers I do get before all my plants succumb. I assume they are still edible (not the brown or yellow ones of course).

the plant is perennial ... the canes are biennial ... after a cane fruits .... berries.. whatever ... it dies... and is cut out [usually in spring.. when it shows no sign of life] ... later in the season ... new shoots emerge ... and those will berry the following season ... and continue the cycle .... they look like they are short of water ... run your drip system... then go dig some small holes near the plant ... and find out.. if you are running the drip long enough.... to get water to the root zone of the plant ... meaning 3 to 8 inches down.. where the roots are .... just use a hand trowel.. or a sharpened old tablespoon ... minimal sized hole .... in my sand.. i would have to run the drip 3 to 4 HOURS ... ... i have no clue how many gallons that is.. it really doesnt matter ... its all about how water moves thru your soil ... thru the root zone ... imo.. with years of drip take experimentation ... i found out.. that no one can tell you .. how to water in the soil in your garden... and all you are left with is digging holes.. and finding out ... sooo .. if those fruited this season ... they are going to be dead come spring.. so who cares what they look like now ... my attention would be don on new emerging shoots.. and how they look ... in other words.. there is nothing to do about.. nor worry about ... you state they are not proper.. but i cant find them in your pix ... as the canes decline .. towards death .. they do continue to process sunshine.. to store energy in the roots ... dont go cutting them out because they are ugly ... there are full sun plants .. i hope the shade seen in the pix.. are the max shade for the day .... ken ps: in pic 3.. whats the wire.. and twine.. and what not????