These next two are taken a few steps forward (in front of the mock orange).

It would be best to keep the patio addition SIMPLE, extending it straight for how ever much is needed in order to create the additional square feet, and finishing will a semi-circular end. If adding a walk, keep it a distance away from the deck.

This picture is not good because of the shadows and the tree. I would have been better to stand just at other side of tree. However, since we see it, I must say it is past time to remove those lower limbs.

You know, it's weird. I've been thinking about this since 2012 and simply elongating the patio makes so much sense yet it never occurred to me. I guess I'm so accustomed to the shape of the old patio that it was hard to imagine it any other way.
Also, the space between the walkway makes it so much better. I couldn't figure out why it seemed awkward to me but I like that way better.
(FYI, this is what it looked like in May this year before we began re-training the wisteria)

Yaardvark has us all limbing up trees now.... spent the last week with a pole saw! The bare gnarling wisteria trunks cladding the pergola pillars are very striking. My suggestion may be unwarranted it but I'll offer it anyway. Do you have plans for storage out of sight for all of the things now cluttering the scene? Tools, toy, car?

My 2 cents. I like what Yaardvark suggested but be careful with the step down if you want to follow any sort of code. I can't really tell but it looks like your rise is a bit much, so I'd try to keep the rise on your steps no more than 7"ish (depending on your local code) with whatever you do. I think you might be a bit over that right now but again... can't tell. Also, and your landing typically needs be at least a 3'x3' if you're butting it against a walkway.

If you're really interested, I should be able to scratch up something for ya. I think you're in good hands with Yaardvark but here's my info. www.frederickporches.com

Striking, yes! But monstrous at times >< Believe it or not, last May it had been fairly trimmed haha.
(From 2014 while my Dad was replacing deck boards)

@Porch and Patio of Frederick
Thank you, I appreciate that. It's definitely something I'll look into.

Here's somewhat better lighting:

"Yaardvark has us all limbing up trees now...." Thank God I am doing some good! Though I cannot see the whole effect here, it looks like it has to FEEL better to be around this tree (I never expect such quick results!)

You could relocate the mock orange to where the small tree is shown in the picture ...

For the patio part, how much space do you recommend I leave between the paver stone and the redbud tree? I originally left about a foot to a foot and a half but I have a history of poor design around trees xD

Without knowing the particulars ... 5' of 6' min. But a lot of things in landscaping are fudged because they have to be. How close do you want/need to be?

Well there's a little over a 13' distance between the tree and the old patio. In my original design idea I enlarged the center patio so it was fairly close to the tree (although I felt somewhat pressed for space and figured I could re-evaluate in the fall to see if redbud needed to be moved). Now, I barely know how big to make the extension. I definitely want the edge of the circle to get shade from the redbud when it gets older (as well as the pine and pin oaks in that area) and I imagined putting a bench just beyond the circle but I have very little sense of how that should look.
I imagined it being like this but in more of a crescent shape that wrapped around the circle. Of course, I wish the plan gave more information about that aspect in their picture but they don't.

If you make the redbud be 6' off of the patio edge, it will look fine as being IN the bed and not too close to the bed edge. The tree is going to get much larger than what is shown in the illustration above so it will produce shade beyond 6'. It will shade some of the patio. You will NOT want to have the bench in the planting bed. You'll want to place it on the patio. Given that the bed will be a crescent shape, there will be some sense of enclosure for the bench but not too much. Be careful about not putting plants in the bed that will become too tall. It looks like your yard extends quite a bit. I don't think you want to close off the view beyond. This bed should not be the terminal backdrop when you look in that direction.

Update: I tried to map out the walkway part.

If you ask me, the space in front of the blank wall is begging for a small, multi-trunk tree. I'd be pulling the walk much farther out from the house to make room for it. Doing this also provides the opportunity to add plantings that help create a little more separation between deck and and driveway area. In my mind this is an improvement ... just like having a foyer is better than if people arrive immediately into the living room as soon as they cross the front door threshold. Exactly how you lay out the walk is something that would be done in PLAN view, in order to see that everything works and fits and that the geometry is pleasing. I'm brainstorming in pieces of photos with a couple of alternate ideas, but it cannot substitute for working out this problem in plan view. If you have a plan view of this area, post it and I can give you more in depth advice.

3' is an acceptable width that is more or less good for single-file use. 4' is better as it handles couples walking side-by-side or singles passing in opposite directions. 5' is becoming potentially luxurious. What material will you make the walk out of?

I'm all for increased separation from deck and driveway area.

Sorry, what do you mean by plan view? Google says "a view of an object as projected onto a horizontal plane." Do you mean like a drawing or picture of the area viewed from above?

I've wanted to have something like that from the beginning but I barely know how to make one myself. I'm terrible at drawing so I looked for aerial pictures of my house. The ones I found still have the area obscured by trees.

Originally I didn't want to make the walkway too wide but with your descriptions, I'm leaning toward at least 4 feet. Even when I'm walking alone, our two large dogs are almost always running behind (or in front of, beside, nearly on top of me) and they definitely don't do single file well.

The walk will be paver stone.

Edit:
Well, taking pictures from the roof was harder than I thought.

Making the plan drawing was actually not as difficult as I thought it would be.

Also, I don't exactly have a multi-trunked tree, but I have my rose of Sharon which needs to be moved soon, would that work?

And here's the big lilac with the weird shape.

This is the most work and steady progress that I've seen here. There's motivation coming from somewhere!

I wish everyone knew it is not difficult to draw a basic plan. It is so helpful for figuring things out and for recording them.

The problem with your lines is that the curve on the left meets the stoop at an angle, instead of connecting to it in line with its edge. At the right side, your edge undulates outward as it meets the stoop and then undulates inward. It would meet the stoop IN LINE (same as other side) and curve in a single direction before it is intercepted by the curve adjoining it to the next section of walk.

Think in terms of drawing the walk from a center line (pink), using it as a guide. You're trying to keep balance and symmetry on both side of the center line in spite of the fact that it is curving in one direction. If you alter the centerline, it will alter the outer edges of the walk. For example, where the walk meets the angled stoop, I've made it continue straight for about a foot. (The radius begin at the barely visible green dot.) If you like, you could begin the curve immediately. It's up to what you do with the centerline. The curves will use true radii but in real life there is fudging. What matters is how they look. With pavers you have the luxury of drawing and redrawing the line in order to fix it, before you cut. Draw first with chalk and the final cut line with marking crayon.

I think the mock orange has the best potential for a nice looking small tree for the spot near the garage. However, your mock orange is very beat up looking. Next year midsummer, when it is growing good, I would cut it to the ground and completely regrow in order to develop and improve its structure. (There is not a multi-trunk tree in my yard that I have not cut down this way in order to improve its structure ... sometimes even two or three times. As I see it, the long term structure is far more important than "having it there now," and more important than flowers now or next year. I also tie them up to control the spread as when they come back they usually want to be wide.)

The rose of sharon seems like it has the potential but does not seem like it will have as nice of character as the mock orange. It might get nice with age. I have tree formed one so I can't say.

I read through everything and I will post a followup soon but I have an exam this week so I have to pause my projects until that's finished. (Sometimes I think half of my motivation is procrastination because it's more fun finishing the projects than solving differential equations) But I wanted to ask, do you still recommend moving the mock orange to that spot this year and then improving structure next year? Or do we need to leave it where it is?

The mock orange has always been frustrating to me because it grows so weird and it always has. I pruned it back significantly this year in an attempt to give it a shape but I wasn't sure if it would look any better.

From a pruning perspective, you're attempting to prune a shrub (mock orange) into a tree form, and it's a shrub that doesn't necessarily take well to maintaining or even having that form. It's not impossible, but it is always going to be a struggle. I know what it is like to love mock orange, a large beast of a shrub if you ask me. But oh the smell! But if you are willing to change it up, might I suggest digging it out and replacing it with sweetbay magnolia or fringe tree or another nice small smelly flowering tree is Japanese silverbell. I have also seen yellow wood or sourwood planted for their smell, but they eventually get bigger than those other trees I mentioned. You can even prune a witch hazel much easier into a small tree shape and there are smelly varieties of that, but they don't bloom when folks are outside as much. They are a nice late fall surprise though. Otherwise I fear you are always going to have trouble with your mock orange if you want a small tree formed plant there.

one never knows the specifics of someone elses gardening trials and tribulations, but I've found mock orange to naturally gravitate toward a nice, tree form shape. I would move this year (in the way you think is best) to transplant and re-form it after it is growing good again. The best way start to a multi-trunk tree form is cut it down and let nature (mainly light) reorganize the increased trunks. If increased trunks that are well organized (like a bouquet) are the objective, I've found it nearly impossible (or much more difficult) to create them by making a little snip here or there over a period of time. It is much easier to cut to the ground (think coppicing) and let the trunks increase. Naturally, by light, they will be better organized.