I have glass tiles but I guess mine are different. But I will say this if you get 10 glass door companies out there you will get 10 opinions on what needs to happen. The people that don't bring levels and such get rid of them first. They wanted to put support rods across the top of mine and drill into my floor. Here is how mine is constructed maybe you can tweak it to fit your needs. I have a 28" wide x 80" tall 3/8" thick door that has 45 deg hinges that swings off of a 1/2" thick piece of glass that goes from floor to ceiling. There are 2 clips on the wall and one at the top where this glass goes to the ceiling. This holds the panel steady. It is just siliconed at the wall and bottom, no drilling into floor. The other fixed panel is 28" wide x 80" tall 3/8" thick and has only one small attachment at the top corner the rest is siliconed in. It works beautifully and you see the true beauty of the glass not a bunch of hardware and head rails. My Glass tiles are bullet proof as it is glass laminated onto porcelain and it is really tough to drill through but I don't think they should have a problem using the correct drill bit and possibly keeping it wet while drilling with acetone or water to keep it cool. This company might have had problems before and they are now nervous with the situation. I suggest that you keep getting quotes. It's a pain and slows the process but in the end positive results.

If you already have a double pane door, the problem may not be the door. Before going into expense of adding another layer of drywall to the walls and ceiling and replacing the door, I would check other things. Like bathroom exhaust fan ducting...is it insulated? HVAC ducts. Plumbing vents. Gaskets on all the exterior wall switches & receptacles as well as ceiling lights. Recessed light cans? Pull a piece of door/ window trim and check that the space between the jamb and framing is insulated.

We have had the new tub in the living room for several months. The original plumber that broke the flanges will not return my calls. Not that I want him to install the newest tub since he broke the last one, but I am rather tired of paying twice for things. I have decided that I am going with Wedi board. Every tile "professional" I have talked to knows less than I do, and all I know is what I have read about in John Bridge's tile book, and the National tile book, and on Houzz. So, Wedi board will be used instead of concrete board because we will do it ourselves. The bathroom has been gutted for 12 months and we are tired of waiting. Here is my plan: 1. Put Wedi board on the back wall and on the interior pony wall. On the back wall, put the Wedi board so that it goes past the pony wall on the upper part. Put Wedi board on the shower head wall and pony wall where the skirt goes to the floor. Now, I still don't know for sure about where the tile will end. 2. I think the tile should go to the back side of the pony wall, where the Wedi ends and the drywall begins. A glass panel will go on the pony wall. I think I want to leave a ledge on the inside of the 6" wide pony wall, so the glass will not be centered. How far should the tile go past the vertical glass panel? 3. I think the ledge will need to slope slightly towards the tub. Maybe? 4. On the shower head wall that is 39" wide with a 32" tub width, that gives me 7" to play with. Should I take the tile to the corner or should I stop the tile at 37" or so? 5. Tile to the ceiling or not? The tile place that sold me the Wedi board said I didn't need Wedi on the ceiling, and they said tiling up to the ceiling or not was my choice. Thanks.

Yes, I realize the one picture is not as new construction. But with those size limitations. I feel like it then puts Two verticals close to the corner instead of One in the corner, and I don't think it really improves the view, it's not like opening the corner prevented blocking the Eiffel Tower or anything and the skyline is actually blocked on the left. I think it ends up as a "look what I can do" sort of trick that isn't worth the effort. The second picture with the big expanse of a single pane of glass may well be worth the expense if you have the budget. that is the true sort of voided corner that International Style architects were all over. The corner slider is the sort of thing that will get less expensive with economies of scale, and may in fact, have a positive impact on how those rooms actually work in an inside/outside blurring kind of way. For my money I would probably want the fixed glass panoramic thing unless I lived in a perfectly temperate climate completely without flying insects.