tulip tree?
gardengirlhere
7 years ago
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Comments (27)
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Tulip tree pruning
Comments (18)I'm extremely impatient so I'd probably do what farm mentioned and cut it off now. But logic tells me you want the energy from the entire canopy sent to the roots come fall. Then in spring you will get nice strong growth in the selected leader. As for selecting which one, I don't know, the union definitely leans towards removing the right one but the canopy reveals that perhaps the right one should remain as it appers to have taken over as the leader. Bottomline don't put anything on that cut. I suggest you use MS paint or similar and repost the photo as to where you will be making the cut. Again Tulip tree is very fast growing and can put on an eceptional amount of caliper in a short period of time, more so than any other young tree I've seen. I'd suggest you not wait pass late winter....See MoreTulip tree hardiness.
Comments (48)My two cents on a 6 year old thread... Northern seed source for Tulip Tree is critical if you want a healthy vigorous tree in zone 5 or colder. After two conversations I had with landscape professionals (urban forester & retail nursery owner/landscaper) in southern Ontario, they shared that a few wholesalers are bringing up B&B Tulip Trees from growers in North Carolina (cheaper than locally grown). They discovered this after investigating why their Tulip Trees planted in the last ~5-7 years were not as robust (low vigor, winterkill, sudden death) relative to the native wild Tulip Trees. Performance of the southern trees was not so bad that the wholesalers would stop importing but poor enough that the perfectly hardy Tulip Tree is getting a reputation as 'borderline'....See MoreTulip Tree - need help
Comments (44)These things take time. Once the problems of a buried root flare are alleviated, the tree will begin the slow process of building a good root system and that can take a season or two for that to happen. So, you might be seeing some of the same symptoms for a week or so before things stabilize and the slow transition to a healthy plant begins. I wouldn't keep dumping fertilizers on as a small tree's nutrient requirements aren't that high and unless there is a real deficit in soil nutrients, you've most likely given the tree all it can stand for now. Too much is worse than too little when it comes to fertilizer. I've used miracle grow in the early season to help plants leaf out and get growing but it can take a week or two to start seeing results which is then mainly leaf production. And don't fertilize past middle of August. That might cause to tree to produce new growth that won't have time to harden off before cold weather arrives. You've done all you can, now it's just a matter of patience. And don't be surprised if the tree dies, that can happen to the best of us. Don't ask me how I know. ;-)...See MoreTulip Tree Help - Again
Comments (14)I'll put my 2 cents in here too. I'm assuming you put them into the pots this spring. But either way, wait until the trees start shutting down for the season, as already mentioned. Then when you're ready, prepare the planting site with a hole as recommended in kens link. Being these are small seedlings, tip the tree out of the pot and put the root ball into a pail of water large enough to let it soak for a while, then tenderly finger work the soil out and bare root the tree right in the pail, keeping it wet. I don't know if my link has the best instructions for planting, but it does have good diagrams of how to set the bare root tree on a mound created/piled/packed in the middle of the hole and divide the roots out evenly in radial direction away from the trunk. https://www.gardeners.com/how-to/planting-bare-root/8764.html Then back filled remembering not to let the roots be exposed to the sun for very long or dry out at all. IME: It's good to have a little extra soil on hand, to make sure you get the tree backfilled at the proper depth (root flare at grade level). I always seem to run out of soil when doing this. Then, put a grassless area and mulch layer around the tree a couple of feet out and check to make sure the soil doesn't dry out after planting, keeping it moist but not wet and muddy. Also keep the wood mulch a few inches away from the trunk. Roots will then continue to elongate until the ground is near freezing, for the rest of this season, helping the tree to start out next spring, partially established and ready to grow new roots. Stake the trees if they seem unusually unstable or if in an open or windy location. Once the leaves are gone for the season, wind shouldn't be a problem and with small trees, they generally stabilize quickly by next spring....See Moregardengirlhere
7 years agogardengirlhere
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agogardengirlhere thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UKgardengirlhere
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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7 years agoEmbothrium
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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