The Kinetico 2060f may not work well for you. It is designed to work with less than 1 gpg hardness. You have more than that. It also has a service flow rate of 5 gpm, which is pretty low. pH control: Soda ash is a good alternative for pH adjustment. You should us gloves when handling it and avoid breathing dust. If you can't avoid dust, a dust mask is a good idea. Stenner injection pumps are very reliable. You have many options for iron and sulfur removal. A little light reading: Softener: A softener will not remove sulfur, and since your iron is ferric, this is not an option for you. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dyes organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8.. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily.

Thanks for helping! 1) the well is brand new and has not been used on any regular basis yet and has yet to be tied into the rest of the house plumbing. We have run the well a handful of times for several hours at a time. However, that's been a few months ago now. When I pulled the sample for the Health Dept, I ran it for 5 minutes and then pulled the sample. 2) I believe there are particulates...this is just particles in the water to make it not clear.....correct? 3) the water comes out clear, then changes to an orange tint, then clear, then a dark orange tint, then clear. Fluctuates a lot but tends to settle down after a bit. 4) We all sampled at the same location (basement sample spigot just after entering the house). This is where the well guys finished their work. It's an "on demand" pressure system (no pressure tank). The treatment folks both were surprised and came out to verify themselves. They both confirmed similar numbers. I think later today, the Kinetic guy is going out there to run the water through a portable unit (Softener?!?) And then test the filtered water to be sure his system will work. He wanted to try and get a better idea on the quantity of Ferrous and Ferric Iron. Thanks again! This stuff gets complicated.....

Oliviag/ bring back Sophie When there is a water quality problem, the very first step is to identify exactly what it is that needs to be removed and how much of it is present. Then you use the appropriate filters to accomplish that. You don't do it the other way - go look for filters and hope that it addresses the water problem. You have been taking random guesses at wildly inappropriate filtering suggestions. In this case the OP (Diane - not a guy) has said they have: Iron: We don't know what type or how much other than "high" Hardness: 40 grains per gallon - which is extremely hard Tannins: Apparently high These are specific problems - with known and specific filtering solutions. For example, a filter that can remove taste and odor, will not remove hardness. A filter that removes sediment will not remove tannis. High levels of Iron can clog everything up and needs to be cleaned up first. We know exactly what the chemistry is and how to successfully treat these problems - without any guessing or magic or fairy dust. It's been done in millions of applications for decades. All of these problems require a backwashing filter. It should make sense that if you have a lot of something that you are removing from the water with a filter - you have to actually get rid of it. If you are vacuuming a dirty house, you have to eventually empty the vacuum canister -- it's the same idea. There wasn't any device in the link that you provided that addressed any of the OP's concerns. Not one of the devices removed hardness. None removed iron, none removed tannins. To the extent that some of them contained a carbon filter, they could - in some application - reduce chlorine and tastes / odors. That's it. Most of the claims ranged from completely unprovable to outright fraudulent. Here's a tip: 99% of "scale inhibiting" devices in the residential market are bogus - particularly things with magnetic windings around a pipe and anything that mentions "salt free softening". It was telling that one of the filters on the list that offered "salt free softening" had a performance data sheet - it would remove chlorine - which is what any carbon filter will do. BTW: What you were looking at was not a legitimate review - you understand that don't you? This isn't someone who has tested any of these systems or even has any knowledge of water chemistry or water treatment. This was a "paid reviewer". The entire site is bogus and is constructed simply to earn credit for linking to Amazon. I have already told the OP what I would do - she posted this elsewhere.

I'm not a plumber, but I've never heard of a "water pressure booster". And your issue may be more complicated than just adding a gizmo. Since you're on a well, you have a well pump with a pressure switch and a pressure tank. And somewhere in the vicinity of where the line comes from the pump, you should have a gauge. You should know what the cut-in and cut-out points are and you can get that by watching the gauge as the water is left running so that the switch cuts in & out. Get those numbers first. "Normal" is 40psi cut-in and 60psi cut-out, roughly (some people like 30/50, some 50/70, but normally it's a 20psi range). Once you know that, then you can determine if maybe the pressure switch is set wrong, or if your pump isn't generating enough pressure (less likely, but possible). Or if the gauge is reading roughly correct, then the problem is downstream from there, and perhaps indicates a clog or other partial blockage. Does pressure seem low if you only turn on one tap, or is it only if you turn on multiple taps? Is it constantly low, or seem to swing between "good" and low? Depending on what's been replaced over the years, and who did that replacement, you may have an imbalance that needs a little professional TLC. While well systems aren't overly complicated, there is a bit of a delicate dance that plays out between all of the parts.