The prevention for phytophthora is good drainage. It is wishful thinking to think that fungicides will overcome a wet location's problems. Some varieties are more vulnerable such as Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, and Nova Zembla, while some are more resistant such as Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, and PJM. What you are describing this time year is more likely drought damage or bark split. Drought can cause entire branches or entire plants to die. We have had several years of drought here and we observe that if rhododendrons and azaleas are not watered during a drought some plants will die, but others will just have one section of the plant die. It seems to be the plants way to conserve what little moisture it has. Bark split is most commonly caused by an early autumn frost while the sap is still high in the plant, or a late spring frost when the sap has already started to rise. For this reason it is dangerous to feed nitrogen to a rhododendron or azalea that could stimulate growth through to autumn. Don't use nitrogen after mid-June. When the bark is frozen, sap cannot get through and the bark splits. For this reason always keep mulch away from the trunk of plants. Bark split damage can be treated with grafting wax to prevent fungal and insect damage if caught early enough. Other possibilities include: Small cottony masses with long, waxy filaments extending from one end is a symptom of the long-tailed mealybug, Pseudococcus longispinus, which is a sucking insect that colonizes on the least accessible parts of plants. Since it is hard to see, systemic insecticides are preferred, but thorough treatment with a contact insecticide may provide control. Plants wilt and die slowly when their roots become blocked. Root strangulation is best prevented by proper root pruning when planting. If the plant is not too far gone, it might be rescued by digging and removing the soil. Then cutting any circling roots that may be strangling other roots. The roots need to be opened up. On larger plants, some of the top must be removed to compensate for the weak state of the roots. Any time the roots are exposed, they must be kept moistened. Roots that dry out will die. Wilt and slow death can also be caused by juglone poisoning from walnuts. Plants wilt and die suddenly is usually caused by roots which are girdled by larvae of the Black Vine Weevil or Strawberry Root Weevil. Adult weevils feed on the leaves at night. Specimens may be collected at night for identification. The major damage is caused by weevil larvae which girdle the roots and kill the plant. Larvacidal drenches may be used to kill them but are of limited effectiveness. Foliar sprays are very effective at controlling adult weevils when leaf notching starts. Foliar sprays must be repeated until no adults emerge. Entire portions of a plant die if a borer is in a branch. Borers only affect the portion of the plant away from the roots from the borer. If the borer is in the main trunk, then the entire plant will wilt and die. The plant can be save by cutting off the area with the borer and letting the plant regenerate from the roots. Sooty mold growth on stems and petioles is a symptom of Azalea Bark Scale and Cottony Azalea Scale. These small sucking insects feed on the bark and exude a sticky substance that turns the stems black. To control, use repeated and thorough sprays of insecticide such as Orthene to the foliage and stems kill the vulnerable crawlers and nymphs.

That does not look like root rot. Various types of root rot will show uniformly pale leaves that are undersized and wilt prematurely even in the slightest heat. The dead tips on the leaves look like excessive chloride in your water OR just very old leaves ready to drop. The lack of dark green in the leaves could be caused by iron chlorosis from high soil pH or lack of micronutrients. I would test soil pH, treat with iron chelate and a nitrogen fertilizer and also paint the trunk and other sun exposed branches as Sunshine said above.

So I have a hydroponic system (with a pump), and the other day I noticed my chamomile I've been growing is looking sad. Some of It's leaves are sagging + the tips are a bit yellow. When I checked the roots, the roots were this orangey-yellow-brownish color. I read about it and apparently the water can dye the roots brown but brown roots are also because of root rot. Some of the other plants in my system's roots are a bit brown but the plant right beside the chamomile (parsley) is perfectly fine. The roots smell earthy, and the water looks alright. None of my plants are dead and the chamomile stems feel firm. I'm afraid of cutting the chamomile of getting rid of it incase its healthy. But if it isnt healthy, I don't want to kill all my plants. Is this root root? If it isn't, then GREAT! If it is, how do I get rid of it and/or try to salvage my chamomile??? Thank you!!

Hi everyone! I'm pretty new to this but I'm a college student who keeps plants. I have a beautiful monstera plant that I have been babying for a few months now. I went away for spring break and trusted those weird little watering globes. Now i'm worried I have root rot. Leaves are developing brown spots, and even a new leaf is browning at the edges before it unfurls. Here's the thing, it's a big plant. It's heavy, and I don't have unlimited resources. Taking it out of the pot and looking at all of the roots in a third floor dorm room is not the easiest of tasks. But it looks like I have to, right? I'm attaching photos of the plant before it was hurt. I can add some of the wounds later when I get home. What do I do? I don't want to shock the plant by going through all this work and taking it out and putting it back in when everything is ok and it just needs to be misted.