Hardwood flooring - expansion gap on all walls?
Dave Adams
7 years ago
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Comments (6)
National Hardwood Flooring & Supplies
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
no expansion gap in hardwood floors
Comments (15)If it moved anything approaching 3/4 of an inch it would tear the nails out. There is still some skill to installing strip flooring. Let it acclimate for multiple days out of its bundles and spread out where it will be installed. Tighter in high humidity (it is going to shrink), looser in low humidity (it is going to expand). Strip floors that are to tight for the moisture content at install can buckle up and pull fasteners part way out. The humps then decrease when the humidity falls. Most of the hump will disappear. Trying to face nail (or even screw) the area will not usually work. The forces generated are larger than the fasteners and/or wood can take. Splitting is not uncommon. You have to remember that if you have 5 inch wide strips 10 feet wide you have 24 strips of wood. If each one move 1/32 inch from damp to dry, the total movement you have distributed is 3/4 inch. It only sows as the joints between the strips opening and closing by 1/32 inch though (and yes it is probbaly off by 1/32 since 24 strips only have 23 joints)....See MoreHelp with hardwood next to tile expansion gap
Comments (2)If your hallway is usual size for such a thing, there is no reason to provide a 3/4" expansion space. Give it 1/8" at each doorway or 3/16", if you're nervous about it, and then fill the gap with a non-hardening (i.e. flexible) caulk. Solid hardwood that is mechanically attached with nails, staples or cleats will not allow for that much expansion. Worst case would be edge crush, severe cupping and tenting in situations where there is excessive moisture in the environment. And, if there was that much moisture from a severe water event (burst pipe, storm damage...those kinds of things) the floor would probably be ripped out anyhow....See Moreremoved a wall. whats the best way to fill in the hardwood floor gap??
Comments (4)It is MUCH cheaper to have a few pieces of hardwood added (your professional flooring refinisher can do this for you...for a fee of course) and the whole thing refinished than it is to lay new plywood and then lay new hardwood. A full sand and refinish = $5/sf. That is the average cost. That includes labour and materials. If you need to source some pieces of hardwood and then lace them into the existing floor, it will add a few hundred dollars to the overall job. Now compare that to BAD (low end piece-of-junk) engineered hardwood. You can purchase the hardwood for $4.99/sf (please don't....they aren't worth the "savings") and then you will spend $2-$3/sf to install it...and that does NOT include new plywood (you can add another $2/sf for plywood+labour to install it). Refinish = $5/sf (plus a little more for new wood to be laced in) Add new engineered hardwood = $5 - $12/sf (floor itself) + labour ($2-$3/sf) + plywood.....a grand total of $9/sf - $17/sf. It's your call. The first thing you want to do is check to see how much wood is left on those old planks. Find a floor vent to look at the cross-section. Measure the amount of wood ABOVE the tongue. You will need 3mm of wood to get a full sand/refinish done. Start there. A sand/refinish is ALWAYS cheaper than new flooring. That's why solid hardwood is always more desirable. It can be CHEAPER to own over it's life time (60-80 years) than any other floor....See MoreSmall gaps in new hardwood floor
Comments (14)The individual who needs to verify that the moisture content of the hardwood strip flooring and the subfloor meet the manufacturer's installation guidelines is the installer--not the homeowner. While the interior environment in your home may be controlled, it sounds like you have a vented crawl space. The conditions (temperature and relative humidity) in a vented crawl space can vary depending on the exterior temperature and relative humidity. The equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of your subfloor (and to some extent your hardwood flooring) will also vary as a function of those conditions. The USDA's Forest Products Lab has compiled EMC data by month for various locations in the U.S.: https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/equilibrium_moisture_content.pdf If you look at the data for Fresno, CA you'll see that the EMC varies by month from a low of 7.8% to a high of 16.6% Trying to get the EMC of your subfloor below the EMC for the given exterior conditions wouldn't do much good if the crawl space is vented. The best case for stable hardwood floors is to maintain relatively constant conditions throughout the year. To this end, I suggest you consult with a local building scientist about the benefits and cost of converting your vented crawl space to a sealed, conditioned crawl space. By keeping the conditions in the crawl closer to those of the conditioned living space, you should have less seasonal movement due to changes in relative humidity....See MoreVith
7 years agoglennsfc
7 years agoDave Adams
7 years ago
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