Yeah, paniculatas like PW typically do very well. It is a good choice so check: (a) that you are not feeding it too much fertilizer - a single application of a general purpose, slow release fertilizer in the Spring should do well for the whole year (assuming your soil has no mineral deficiencies); (b) paniculatas need more sun but do not go overboard with sun exposure or the leaves may complain; (c) watch out for deer/squirrels/etc, pests that like to eat the flower buds and which would prevent you from getting bloomage; (d) do not prune them once they leaf out (just in case you are pruning when the shrubs are developing the flower buds). They bloom quite early here too so it is best to not prune once they leaf out. Instead, prune when they have lost their foliage or better yet, do not prune at all. If planted where they can attain their estimated size at maturity, hydrangeas should need minimal pruning. Maybe only pruning of any stems that died out during winter. Some shrubs may need 2-3 years to develop a good root system so they shrubs may delay blooming *or may delay good blooming) until then. Also, maintain the soil as evenly moist as you can so the plant does not abort the flower buds during a dry spell in late Spring or Summer... 3-4" of mulch helps with watering issues... Water when soil feels dry to a depth of 4". A 1g to 2g watering is sufficient (depends on how to tall the plants are) per watering when the soil feels dry or almost dry.

Sharon, mine gets sun all day, more than 10 hours. It's at the top of a SW facing slope with no nearby shade. I have more sun than shade, so haven't tried growing one in part shade. However, nicholsworth55 has posted photos of her H. paniculata in zone 6 midwest that grow in dappled shade with very little sun. They aren't Pinky Winky, but IME all of the various cultivars of H. paniculata seem to have similar requirements, so I think that PW would most likely be fine in 5 hours, but perhaps a bit less dense than a full sun plant. As far as pruning a tree form, you will need to remove any sprouts along the "trunk". It's easiest to just rub them off when the buds are just starting to swell along the "trunk", but if they get bigger, just prune them off with sharp clippers. If needed to shape the plant, you can shorten the branches in early spring, but once the leaves start growing, don't prune any more or you may be removing flower buds. As I said above, I don't prune any of my panicle hydrangeas since they have enough space, and they still bloom profusely, so it isn't necessary to prune them if you are happy with the shape and size.

Luis, I prefer the cultivars with proportionately more fertile flowers, of which PW is one. So what I think you are seeing as golden are the small fertile flowers, with the earlier opening sterile flowers at the bottom of the panicle having changed to pink and the later opening sterile flowers at the top of the panicle still white, though on some just starting to shift to the start of the pink tone. They look fairly pink and white earlier in the season but by now most of the white has disappeared. I will look on my phone to see if I took one from much farther back. I think it may be a bit more sparse as to sterile blooms this year because we have had a lot of strong wind and rain storms (12+” between mid-July and mid-August, almost all as windy driving downpours.)

pfft. I know these were pruned from shrub to trees. I've said it before. It's kewel that you have multiple loss leaders on pruning just due to that ! I ain't got that kinda patience