I realize we need to loose the green indoor / outdoor carpet on the steps, match the shades of white (to which?) and the air conditioner screens need to match. Feedback on these items or ANY others welcome.

Wherever trees remain, it would be beneficial to substantially limb them up. and get rid of the gloom and claustrophobia producing potential. If the tree is large you may be talking about 20' of clear trunk. If it is small, limb up to half its overall height. This might seem excessive to branch-lovers. But keep in mind that every year branches get longer and hang lower. If you don't take off enough, you'll be doing the job again in two months. Also, as soon as branches/limbs are removed, the tree gets excited and GROWS AGAIN. In no time, the proportions look as if no one has touched it.

I would definitely not put grass on a steep hill that is uncomfortable to mow. Groundcover would be more appropriate. The biggest problem is getting weeds under control and keeping them there. First, create a bed that is divided from any lawn that will remain. It needs some kind of an edge in order for maintenance to be easier. Many prefer the "trench edge". You can Google. Second, spray herbicide to kill all weeds in the bed area. Third, after the weeds are dead, remove their tops (or beat them down) and cover the area with a thick layer of mulch. 1 1/2 - 2" settled depth. I often hear recommendations of wildly thicker layers, but too thick and it causes other problems. You can judge how thick you want to go. You'll need the mulch to help suppress germinating weeds. But it won't stop all of them. (Do not use the joke called weed barrier.) You'll need to spray again for any that come or use a different herbicide for those that weren't killed in the first spraying. (Round-up first, and Weed-b-gone second.) Plant the new groundcover in the fall and keep it well watered. Monitor weeds early on. May need to be treated with pre-emergent herbicide if it looks like germinating seeds will be a problem. You must get coverage of the new plants ASAP (which means they will need irrigation during the establishment period.) Depending on the planting pattern, spacing, and spray pattern, it may be possible for one to treat weeds with Round-up after planting so long as one uses diligent care, meaning no wind and a fan pattern (not round) spray tip.

I don't know where you are so no recommendation on plant types for groundcover. What groundcover grows well there?

You can plant the slope with some low (1-3’) ornamental grass
as a groundcover. You could also add a
couple areas of perennials to get some flowers in summer if desired. I would not recommend lawn (for less ongoing maintenance
and can be hard to get established on steep slope). The deeper root system of an
ornamental grass will stabilize the slope and help uptake more water when the
area is wet.

You could also add some multi-stem trees to add a little
privacy. A smaller size tree will not overwhelm
the lower level units when fully grown.

Use smaller size plant material and plants that grow quick for a
more cost effective install.

Best, Dean

I am in zone 6, northeast PA

Thank you Yardvaark

Do I limb up the tall scrawny evergreens in the center area too?

I see what you mean about dividing out a bed with a trench edge. Any suggestions on shape?

I would like to leave the exposed roots where they are and just cut the tree stumps to 6 to 8 inches, in another area I removed them and the slope became an unstable nightmare. Am I wrong?

Can I start clearing the area now? Will mulch stay put on a slope?

I can plant in the fall. I have a great source for young groundcover - big blue liriope and sedum have been successful, they carry periwinkles and sedges too. I can plant with 9" spacing and thin if needed. I have declared War On Weeds, and will follow the outlined plan

Thank you Front Appeal

I like the idea of some variety, but how would I set it up? Tall at the top? Middle? Liriope border? Other grasses? I tried to transplant a young rhododendron to the slope and had to change the location, had to pull out med size rocks and still had a devil of a time. I would need rootballs smaller than softballs, i think. But I would LOVE a multi stem tree.

Suggestions for tree that i can get young enough to adapt to a poor soil? Perennials that will stand up straight on slope? General idea on how to arrange?

Yes, limb up tall scrawny evergreens, too.

Shape of bed should be shape of slope ... straight line.

Leave roots in place. Cut stumps low as possible.

Begin work now. Mulch staying in place depends on factors I can't measure, including type of mulch. Observe what is available locally that will work.

Big blue liriope seems too tall to me and requires too many to plant entire slope solid. There are many sedums. Will it be durable and accept all the light conditions? I cannot say, but my experience would not select it as first choice. A tough vining groundcover -- like english ivy or vinca MINOR -- would seem better choices to me. What grows there like those? I vining groundcover will spread (cost effective) and is usually easy to start from pieces for patching in later, if necessary.

For advising about variety there's no ready answer but I would definitely avoid LINES of any kind. No edging border either. In order to get info on this you would need to provide a complete and different set of photos taken to show the whole space. It would be better to start a new thread specifically for that so as not to have the clutter of all the other subjects that are here. If you want to do that, I would advise you how to take the photos.

Thank you. I would like to try to do that.

Dalton - I would go with a sedge. They are tough, low maintenance plants that can thrive on slopes. Carex pensylvanica could be a good fit depending on light conditions. 4" or quart pot would probably be best size to buy at.

There are many perennials you could also use to add some color depending on the look desired. I would be happy to help you look at some design options if interested.

Best, Dean

I can see ornamental grass as groundcover with white birch trees. The effect from the first floor windows will be attractively airy and light, with enough canopy to shade and screen the automobiles from the upper stories. It would be a contemporary look in keeping with the building.

I reposted this, as requested by Yardvaark as

Need help with landscape / planting for slope

Front Appeal - Yes, I would like some design ideas, either on this post or the new one. The slope is very dry, and rock hard.

kitasei - I love the idea of ornamental grass and birch trees, is there a variety that wouldn't get too tall? how to arrange them?

I am not the expert to ask how to implement a slope of ornamental grass - nor advise the variety - but I picture it as a continuous sea of something about justt tall enough to screen car bumpers from that ground floor and airy, not distinct clumps, which is what you so often see in commercial plantings. . I would think that would mean staggering the plantings densely rather than a checkerboard. But I also see the practicality of Yardvaark's recommendation of a vining groundcover. For that reason I might look into ferns. I have a fern that is running, not clumping, survives sun and drought and is light green and airy and the right height. Too bad I can't tell you the name of it, but someone here could! In any case, I think the look you want is SIMPLE (one groundcover, one kind of tree) but LUSH. That will make the slope look designed, and help mitigate the misfortune of being adjacent to a parking lot. I salute you for taking the effort to make the experience of the apartment (office?) dwellers a little more uplifting. I was in my dentist's chair the other day gazing out the window a very similar situation and ruing the missed opportunity.

I measured the area. The building is 150 ft long, the slope is 15ft wide and there is 15 to 25 ft of flat ground between the slope and the building. The area gets morning sun, part shade to shade in the afternoon.

Because it is a large area, and it must be densely planted, cost per plant is a consideration. I have a good source for vinca, pachysandra, ajuga, sedum, ivy, liriope - big blue and spicata in flats of 100. good size for easy planting. They also carry sedge and the taller lirope - giant blue in 4" pots, pricier.

I have used a native source - Native Liatris spicata Blazingstar has done well, but is a bit pricer, so I can't cover the entire slope w it. This source has dogwood, buttonbush in 'live stakes', but I have to buy 50, but could add elsewhere, but how to plant live stakes on that dry, mess of a slope?

I have not used any ferns, I think of them a edge of the forest (an area for next year). Would they like this area?

Goals: Prevent erosion, Eliminate mowing with groundcover, Young plants with small root balls, Soften view from units, Contemporary or modern look

Thank you in advance

April (DaltontheBengal is my Bengal Cat)

I found a picture of birch and carex brizoides online. Very modern and a restrained palette is key. I can see substituting the carex for green hosta (with some giant ones interspersed for height or interest). You might also consider ostrich ferns which spread. Really anything green and lush to contrast with the white limbs and provide texture. If you want to consider, you could go native - a mayapple colony with trulliums, ginger, etc. would be awesome, but expensive.

Yardvaark gave excellent advice in regards to when to plant(fall) maintenance needed (irrigation) and the fact you will either need to manually weed or spray to keep the monoculture under the trees. You will weed less once the ground cover is established, but it will still be needed. I'm not a fan of ivy, so if you go with a vine, maybe vinca minor. Expect any vine to attempt to take over all areas (lawn/neighbors/woods) and to prevent appropriately.

Here's the picture

It's true vines try to take over, but this is partially what makes them excellent groundcovers, as they continually heal any damaged spots. It's not very difficult to control them where they need to be controlled which is primarily at edges. Many people are satisfied with just mowing where vines enter the lawn. As long as they're mowed, they are not visible and only travel so far before giving up. At walks, the edger is used just as it is for turf. Where vines climb trees, they only need to be cut at the base of the tree once per season, which is a quick, easy job. One does not need to remove them. They will remove themselves in short order.

If taller groundcovers are to be incorporated into the scheme, it would make sense to have them in large blocks -- probably in a rectangular shape -- around the base of trees, "tying" them together. For the largest open areas it would be good to have a not too tall groundcover.

Inspiration photo showing tall groundcover around tree.

We just tapered the asphalt to help direct stormwater to its sewer and are doing some backfilling. The area gets occasional stormwater, but is fairly dry. clay. zone 6. I am trying to plan the area to the left of the stairs.

I like the idea of breaking up the area with a light airy tree or shrub (red twig dogwood?) or tall grass, surrounded by a rectangle of a taller groundcover centered in front of the balconies. And then and then a workhorse low viney ground for the balance.

What about a border next to the parking lot and next to the stairs - salt tolerant. wild geranium? wild onion? canada anemone? giant liriope? 1-3 ft sedge?

The area does not need shade and I'm a little afraid of getting back to my BEFORE pictures. Doom. leaves. debris.

Drawn to scale - each block is 5 ft. The sloped section of the leftmost rectangle where I am starting is 15ft x 50ft. Stars are existing shrubs, trees.

Any suggestions? Thank you for reading

I would resist the temptation to place any tall material on the slope (except at the base of the tree.) Here are two ways you could handle it. If a groundcover were low enough, you could eliminate turf and extend the groundcover into its place.

There are probably other places on the property where larger shrub type materials could be placed. But I can't see it here, on this slope ... especially a border at the parking lot.

Thank you for the clean, modern plan, Hard to goof up. lol.

I can do without a shrub in each quarter, it made the job much more difficult. I'd love to figure a way to put in something about 2 ft tall and salt tolerant at the top to filter headlights and improve the view of those who live there. The first 2 to 3 ft from the curb inward is semi level ground. No good?

If you need to screen headlights, I can't say what plant you should use, but plant a hedge at the top of the slope that can be maintained just high enough for this purpose. Use something tough, durable and easy to maintain. Rather than bringing the hedge all the way to the steps, stop it short a few feet from the steps. If you bring it all the way to the steps railing, the entering experience will seem closed in. You could terminate the hedge with a slightly larger plant, if desired. (This would work with either of the previous schemes I showed though I'm showing it in only one here.)

Anybody have any ideas for salt tolerant plant I can use for a hedge? Something that want to be 2 to 3 ft high? Elsewhere we have liriope, grasses, boxwood, yews. blue spruce sedum, black eyed susan. 1970's modern-ish. Flowering interest?This area is usually dry clay, will get plow salt and calcium, few times a year heavy rains overflow area. Working on it.

Look into Potentilla fruticosa as a possibility for the hedge.

How about something like this (from owtdoor.com). You can have some nice tall grasses with pink or purple in them at parking lot level, substitute the trees for something like oak leaf hydrangeas (do they do well in zone 5? I don't know, but they tolerate shade) and use lirope as cover on the slope. Simple.

PS> Love your ideas kitsei so I am playing off them. ;)