How long is too long? Dracaena marginata roots dried out ...
Comments (19)
bunkfree_4a_canada
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
How to trim dracaena marginata roots?
Comments (3)ishuku, I'd decide where I want to cut the roots on the long side of that L. I would use a sharp knife or heavy scissors. I would cut straight across the container; and not worry if I do not get all the roots. Leave the plant in the container long enough for the cut roots to start branching. Addition of organic matter in the form compost in the area of the cut roots will help this process. Monitor the root branching progress; and I would guess that after about 8 weeks, you will be able to lift the plant with its smaller root ball, cut away any remaining long roots and set it in the new container and add more compost to set it firmly in place. It is similar to root pruning a field grown tree; a quarter circle (12 o'clock to 3 o'clock; 3 to 6; 6 to 9 etc) at monthly intervals. New feeder roots proliferate inside the pruning circle so that when the whole tree is lifted and set in its new location, the shock is minimized....See MoreHow to root a dracaena marginata
Comments (64)There is a significant difference between repotting and potting up. One eliminates the limitations imposed by root congestion, the other ensures the perpetuation of those limitations until such time as they are eliminated by physically correcting the congestion. Air layering the top of the plant is the safest way to propagate your plant because the method stops the polar flow (from top to roots) of a growth regulator (auxin) that inhibits lateral growth (back-budding or new shoots); so, at the same time you're producing a new plant from the top (layering), you're stimulating new shoots from below the point of the air layer. It's not a difficult process. A second method, which also carries very little risk, would be to cut the top of the plant back, leaving only a few healthy leaves. This also inhibits the polar flow of auxin and forces back-budding lower on the plant. In successive years, you can 'chase' foliage all the way back to shoots growing very low on the plant. You use the term 'leggy'. Leggy happens when the plant isn't getting enough light and usually accompanies a weak stem that is reluctant to support itself. Your plant's natural growth habit is to regularly shed older leaves and occasionally produce another branch here and there. It will produce far more branches w/o your help if you can get it outdoors where there is lots of air movement and good light - as found in open shade. Then, you can prune the top back to one of those lower branches with virtually no risk to the plant. Al...See MoreLittle dracaena marginata with browning lower leaves
Comments (12)I just noticed Planto left comments. Planto, sorry if I repeated anything you said. Blabberboca. Your Dracaena looks a lot taller on your link. Are roots growing out of drainage holes? If so, your marginata definately needs a larger container. Before, I forget. You said you watered straight from the tap. Is it possible to fill a container w/water and let it sit overnight before watering?? Is soil crumbly after you water?? How often do you water, and do you water thoroughly so rootball is saturated? Sips don't do the job. Ah, you have a garden window..Lucky you! :) Yes, I'm certain a south, 'semi-enclosed area' gets hot in summer. Is it possible to move your marginata in the background, or another room? During winter, your garden window would be a great place to for your marginata and other plants. Don't fear repotting. :) Select a larger container, (5-6")add a little soil on the bottom of new pot. Remove plant carefully from old pot, center in new pot, then add fresh soil around the rootball and top.. Once you repot, you'll soon be an expert...lol....See MoreDracaena Marginata getting TOO tall
Comments (62)I did see this post which is so old. I live in zone 9 in Houston. I have your particular plant outside in my garden in the ground. We had a horrible freeze last year & the year before 12 degrees last winter. This particular drac always comes back from the roots. Came back this year & the year before. I don't know about constant really low temps, but, knowing me, I would try, especially not liking houseplants. You could try this with a cutting. Also the areca palm was planted next to my house and withstood many freezing winters. Information out is that this palm needs to be in the house. I realize it was planted right next to the house. We finally had to dig it out since it continued to grow sideways creating more and more growth. Also cordylines/ti plants always come back just like the drac. Tropical growers need to know this experience. Happy growing. Carol...See Morebunkfree_4a_canada
7 years agobunkfree_4a_canada
7 years ago
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7 years ago
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agobunkfree_4a_canada thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)bunkfree_4a_canada
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoThanks for all the input :)
I did cut off all the mushy roots when I unpotted it, before I let it dry. Ponged - ha! I like it!
There weren't many fine roots, but it had a good amount of firm roots. A lot came off when I worked the soil loose. That soil all came off with very little effort, and most of what's lying on the soil there is the dead flat roots or mushy pieces.
I think I used the last bit of MG cactus soil with lots of perlite and the last couple scoops of the batch of gritty mix I had in a bowl leftover from potting succulents. Pretty good drainage and I tried to keep it high in the pot as the trunk looked like it had been buried too deep.
bunkfree_4a_canada
7 years agoI went to work and brought it home. I had top watered it when repotted initially, and the soil was still very wet.
So sad
I unpotted it to check the roots. There was more dead stuff which I removed, but also some obviously new roots starting as well!!! *arm dance* so I remixed the soil and potted it in same pot, making sure to not pack the soil at all. Removed all the yellowing leaves. I think this plant may make it after all.
Close up of how deep I planted it. Should the flare be covered? It's standing on its own. You can see the line of how deep it was in the "designer arrangement" pot.
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agobunkfree_4a_canada thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)bunkfree_4a_canada
7 years agoHU-458189122
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHi I have a similar question! I went to a friends house and they were throwing a large Dracaena into the garbage. They had uprooted and left it outside in the front yard (and it was a hot day.) I immediately put it in a vase of water and took it home. Let it soak for 24 hours and replanted it today in a mix of cactus and potting soil, and watered. The stem is green underneath all the way to the soul, however the roots did seem dried out (I also think they probably were not gentle when they unpotted it.) Since the leaves have started turning brown and wilting. I pulled some dead ones off. Looks worse than when I found it. Not sure how long it was outside as the person who did it was not there. Could have been a day, pr a few days but since leaves had not totally wilted I am hoping it was for under a few days. As you can see the top looks like it is going to fall off. Just wanted to know if it has a chance? If there is anything I can do? Watering? And also if deck is best or inside for recovery (it is hot but not in direct sun out there.) Thanks! Any tips are appreciated!
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agoHU-458189122
5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agoAh! Sorry. Hose the whole plant down. Soak the roots in water for an hour or so, then plant in a damp but NOT WET soil. Dracaena does best in soils with sharp drainage. If you need to, cover the soil with aluminum foil & weight it down to prevent evaporation from the soil. Keep it in bright light but not direct sun and out of the wind. An outdoor location would be best. Secure the plant to the pot so it can't move in relation to the pot. Examples:
Al
HU-458189122
5 years agoHU-797331406
3 years ago
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)