Help me. I am an idiot.
mrspete
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Oaktown
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomojomom
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Am I a complete idiot?
Comments (14)first.... either do it the way the seller tells you to .. or don't complain when it doesn't work out ... make sense??? i do NOT do it this way .. but i have read about this method ... 6 of this.. half dozen of another .... on the one hand .. trunks are developed to be above the soil level .... as noted above.. one of the reasons we don't put soil above the root flare .... on the other hand.. one might argue that the bud union is the new root flare ... how i do it ... on fresh or second year grafts ... as noted by dax.. i plant at the same level as the pot ... and i leave the banding [rubber or whatever] there an extra year ... and any remaining portion of the understock that was not trimmed prior to shipment.. i leave there ... a little extra power and insurance .. i do NOT allow the upper rootstock to flush out vigorously ... either knocking off the buds.. or pruning then as soon as they elongate ... if the responder is dave.. of the nursery ... and his pedigree indicates that they have been doing this for a century .. who are we to argue that it is improper.... i am positive.. for every reference you find on the web.. you will find the opposite opinion if you look hard enough ... though there are a bunch of conifer that do root ... and therefore are usually the cheaper ones.. since there is less labor involved in replication ... i would find it hard to believe that that many others would eventually root at the bud union .... or else they would all be cheaper to duplicate by rooting rather than grafting .... but that is just gut reaction... finally .. perhaps soil type could be an issue .... in my super well drained sand... i might be able to bury things a lot deeper than others .... the trunk would just never suffocate or get water logged... in fact.... i can barely get dead tree stumps to rot.. due to the lack of water ... on the other hand ... someone in heavy, sticky clay ... may kill a tree very quickly .. because of the retained ambient moisture ... how it is done in pots is irrelevant... because potting medium is engineered to such variables .... again ... i am not stating fact in this particular regard.. i am throwing out some variables.. and looking to the soil scientists among us for comment... good luck ken...See MoreTomato growing idiot I am here....
Comments (9)diclemeg, here are my thoughts and questions. Way too many of them -- sorry -- just select the ones that seem relevant. First of all, you have obvious height differences. The tall plants are setting fruit. The short ones aren't. That has to be significant. So analyze the two groups for us. Are the tall ones and the short ones in different places, or interspersed? Were there any differences in how you planted them (buried one group deeper, used different fertilizers, etc.)? Do both groups get the same amount of sun? What was growing in these areas last year? Any buried gravel, cement, lumber, etc.? Is one area lower or higher than the other, or with obviously better or worse drainage? Is the soil the same? Are the short ones perhaps against a building or a fence? Are the tall ones from one vendor, the short ones from the other vendor, or some of both? Were both groups planted at the same time, or different dates? Can you tell us when? Or how much time between the two? (If there was no significant difference, don't go into details.) Since the taller plants are the ones with fruit, and the shorter ones don't have fruit, I think we can discount the manure. If too much nitrogen were the problem, the plants without fruit should big huge, green, and aggressively healthy-looking. === the ones that haven't mostly are between 18 inches and 3 feet, and some have curled leaves, some look atrophied Leaves can curl for a number of reasons (including both too much water and too little). Or this might be herbicide damage. Do you know when you first noticed the curling? About how long ago was it? Were the two groups of plants about the same size until then? Has anything been sprayed in the area in the past month or so? By you or a neighbor -- or even a neighbor's neighbor? Herbicide can drift incredibly far on the wind, and tomatoes are horrifically sensitive to it. Curled and twisted foliage is the main symptom. If you know of any herbicide that was used, try to find out what it was (brand or chemical; whatever you can learn). Have a look at these pictures of herbicide damage. Do they look at all like your plants? http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=tomato+%22herbicide+damage%22&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq= Are these plants putting out any new foliage? Is it just as twisted? === Daconil is used to prevent fungal diseases. I doubt your problem is fungus-related....See MoreArghhhh. I am an idiot. TWP can also mean
Comments (2)Well......to review, this is a a 700 sf 18 year old PTW deck on its last legs. But it cleaned up great except for the residual stain. I'm trying to squeeze some more years out of it. I left the stripper on two areas, didn't let it dry out. What a gunky nasty job. I definitely don't like the toxicity. It did liquify some stain, but nowhere near all of it, just enough to make a mess and make it hard to see how much was coming off. Even with dwell time of up to 30 minutes, there was still blue left on there. It would take me the rest of the summer to get it all off. The pros have better(?) stuff no doubt, but hiring out, like redecking, has to wait. What to do, what to do... Semi solid stain (that goes in the wood) but sits up filmy and shiney in blotches where the old residue is? or Cabot's primer and solid stain - which will at least be consistantly filmy not so blotchy - until it fails and all heck breaks loose: peeling, etc? or Counter sink the 1000 nails and rent a sander and try to take it down a notch?...See MoreHelp me! I feel like an idiot!
Comments (4)they're not always exactly 12 x 12...and there is a top and bottom...make sure you aren't getting them in sideways. If you do, they are a little too short and you have to trim a little off the sides in order for them to fit. I usually keep one sheet for a pattern and have the top marked...then I hold the sheet up to it to make sure I'm not getting it sideways...it's very frustrating to get the pictures all on a page and everything fastened down just to find out that it is all done sideways...been there, done that...See MoreKatie S.
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