Here is reference to a poster here who has used it. They are chefs so hard, heavy use. The paint store told me the same. You might ask if this is the Classic or Select version, but I have read the new Select is even better. Can't always believe what you hear though. ' Posted by trailrunner (My Page) on Tue, Apr 23, 13 at 9:53 I don't have a 60' Wolf but I do have a 36' Caldera gas cooktop. We do a LOT of high heat wok cooking and also have a Miele built in deep fat fryer. We use all of this frequently and have done so for 7 years. We have no backsplash. Only paint on sheetrock. There has been no change at all in the quality of the painted wall since it was installed 7 yrs ago. I have BM Regal Matte paint that is scrubbable after 30 days. I regularly scrub it with a soapy dishcloth. There is no reason that you too can't have a painted backsplash . I have it throughout my kitchen. Here is only one of 100's of pics. You can see more in the albums of you click on the pic. Good Luck .c ' Here is a link that might be useful: regal matte This post was edited by snookums2 on Fri, Jan 17, 14 at 15:36

Hi Lori, Color chip is a great tool to narrow down your color choices. When you’ve narrowed it down to a few finalists, pint samples are there to help you. We recommend painting a poster size board and move it around the room to see how light and other surrounding environment effects the color. View it in the morning, afternoon and at night with your lights on. Switch out to another color and which one you like better. That doesn't answer the question. You started out labeling the color chips with "bluer undertones" and "redder undertones" when they were compared to each other. Then when another set of colors were introduced to the mix, when the context for a narrow one-on-one comparison was changed, you changed how you categorized Stonington to "subtle yellow tones" when paired with blues. And that begs the question, so what about when it's not paired with blues? So, if depending on context, Stonington can have "bluer undertones" or "subtle yellow tones" why assign absolute "undertones" or "tones" in the first place? And "Sea Froth 2107-60 looks redder next to Barren Plain" but we don't get any more clarification about Barren Plain's attributes specifically. When asked to clarify, your solution is to go buy samples, paint them, and move them around the room. Because now - all of sudden - the light matters. Whereas when you were so definitively labeling and categorizing the colors by bluer undertones, redder undertones and yellow tones the light wasn't a factor --- then. .... but now it is. Apparently the only way out is to randomly go buy samples, shuffle through the painted boards and hope one of the colors in the stack works. At least I think that's what you're saying. (And just to be clear none of this has anything to do with Color DNA. Color DNA refers to color measurements and resulting spectral data/color data values.)

stick w/some of the regular, neutral grays then. make sure bulbs are in the 3500-4000K temp range. Always bring home a sample, paint it on some spare wood (prime it first) and see how it looks. (or your painter should give you a sample first before committing to painting all of them) Here's Metro Gray, as requested, above: looks like a nice neutral, but leans a little on the purple end of the spectrum these 5 colors are supposed to be neutral grays: this is SW Crushed Ice, but it's a beautiful, neutral gray. see what BM color they recommend that is equal to this one.

I have to say - I think the deeper wall looks great! Is it De Nimes? I like the cabinetry too. But the blue you see in the cabinetry, is an inherent part of its colour DNA. The lighting is probably quite balanced if the colour appears that way. If you are looking for a further wall colour are you considering the same Hue Family neighbourhood as these two colours (top suggestions) or from the Yellow Hue Family, (2nd lot of colours) or something else? Lighter than Boothbay? Darker? More neutral? More colourful? 🌈