Bleach is recommended for non-porous surfaces such as your shower, hydrogen peroxide is recommended for porous surfaces such as walls or fabric. In a spray bottle mix 1 part bleach to 10 parts water(1:10), in another bottle mix hydrogen peroxide with water(1:1). Spray liberally and let stand for at least 10 minutes, use paper towels to clean up. Never mix bleach and hydrogen peroxide! If the mold has got into your walls then you will have to replace the drywall. A dehumidifier is a good idea but running your air conditioner will do the same thing. www.weather.com/activities/health/allergies/mold/control_humidity.html Ideally you want the humidity between 30-50%, here's a good gauge: www.amazon.com/Vicks-V70-Health-Check-Monitor/dp/B0000TN7NS I agree about cleaning out the HVAC, replace your filters every three months. This post was edited by moviegeek on Tue, Oct 7, 14 at 20:15

Cheri: I copied this from another forum: "This isn't as bad as you might think. Dirtys sock syndrome is bacteria growing, usuallly in the coil and pan area. The solution is for your service company to do a thorough cleaning of the indoor coil, pan and drain, using a good, stiff mix of coil cleaner and disinfectant, like Lysol. The entire area must be kept WET for at least 10-minutes and then be thoroughly rinsed to flush away the bacteria."

Yo Ken, if your still around your up on this one. Far as Composites go I am with the Larry/whoever We are for the most part. Composites are really no longer using recycled material because there is just not enough of it so most of the raw stuff is virgin,the energy used to make composite is an enviro no no, when its time to remove the project composite is not real big on bio degrade its tricky to burn shreading it would be silly. Bottom line composites are not so enviro freindly. Info like that might suggest its not all that good to clean it either, with anything. I dont agree>> composites will out last Ipe, left to go silver/gray Ipe is as close to no maintance as a person can get. With the softer composites like Choice/MoistureShield even trex= tjunk I have found a coat or two of TWP 116 seals up the decking,locks in the color and keeps mold,mildew,stains from causing major problems. Of course not needing to do this is the reason the Wallet goes for composite in the first place. I my own self dont like composites at all for the reasons stated in several posts here and on other sites. Welcome aboard Larry!!! Sorry I dident understand your intent at the begining . John

Mildew is a mold, and both are fungal colonies. Many have characteristic odors, but not all. Most fungi, even ones living around us on our stuff are completely benign. A few are pests because they damage, either intrinsically or cosmetically our possessions and structures. A very few more are hazardous to our health (inhalation of spores). But I wouldn't panic in the least. The fungi we encounter in our houses are normally held in check by denying them their needed environmental conditions: generally high humidity, lack of light, certain temperature ranges (unfortunately they like what we like, or have because of weather) and stagnant, unmoving air. They also need food to really prosper. Food can be a rotten tomato on the shelf, hardcover book bindings, oils and soap left behind on the shower walls, residues of detergents and fabric softeners in washing machines, waxes in shoe polish and on furniture, soot and grease from air pollution, and the paper coverings on drywall to name a few. Each species of mold has its own obligate source of food, so you won't find starch and paper-eating varieties growing on that slimy cucmber in the crisper, and vice versa. So: Clean the spot well; who knows what "food" may be there that the mold grew on (an old, forgotten spill or a cat's hairball that was re-ingested are possibilities). Simple water and soap will probably do fine, although I'd be tempted to use some of that spot carpet cleaner stuff to avoid saturating the carpet pad underneath with water. (I'm assuming that it's not possible to actually look underneath the carpet to verify that all is dry there? That would be the best thing but may not be feasible if the spot is out in the middle of the room.) I also use pure grain alcohol on books that have mildew. If you can get it, you might use that. Avoid spreading spores in the air by not rubbing hard (or vaccuming unless you have a true HEPA vac) if there is any powderiness to the area. Sometimes I have used wide scotch tape (packing, duct, etc.) to capture and immobilize spores as a first step. Press it down, and pull up, using fresh pieces until you're not seeing more powder/dust. Fold the tape over and discard outside in the trash afterward. Temporaily move the sofa to expose the spot both for monitoring, to dry it from the spot cleaning and to expose it to light. If the sofa has a skirt, then consider pining it up or removing it. Definitely run the dehus in the room and underneath the space. Watch for other infestations; nearby and elsewhere. It's most likely a one-time, opportunistic outbreak and all will be well from here on out. HTH, L