Need 120 circuit from full Frank Adams 120/208 3 phase
elltwo
7 years ago
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Comments (7)
Ron Natalie
7 years agoRelated Discussions
dangers of 60 amp 3 phase fryer on 50 amp cord cap & receptacle
Comments (11)Hopefully I'll talk him into doing it right before the inspector even comes. He just wants to know why it is a problem which I didn't know how to explain besides the receptacle is designed for 120/240 and not 3 phase, plus it exceeds the amperage rating. He then said, "I bet these pins could carry 200 amps if they had to" Kind of has that bad attitude of "Well it's not code but it is still safe right?" He thought bootleging a ground on a receptacle was a safe solution which I explained the dangers and now he realizes the dangers of his actions and says he won't do it again. Maybe this is why our 2 states got rid of the experior exam and brought back the apprenticeship. Some people don't get that the code is there as a bare minimum for safety and not just a suggestion of what works best. I really think he has no intentions to do things dangerously, wants to be a great company. However skipping codes is infact dangerous. But think the electrical education is not completely there and it is silly that I the 19 year old college student am the one telling them what to do often. They should be the ones kicking my butt telling me what to do :) They call me "book wiz" cause of all the code citations I enforce on the job lol. This is also the 1st commercial job he has had besides service calls. We got 4 men putting in a 800 amp service, outdoor light poles, and an entire fast food restaurant's worth of wiring. I've been working 8 am to 9 pm very often :)...See More120V for @240V water heater
Comments (26)It sounds to me that the person asking the questions does not understand enough about wiring to do this safely and should get someone that knows what they are doing to help. Even if one does not get a shock or worst setting it up, there is always the fire hazard. Based on what I read so far, if he switches the elements to 3500's and they only run one at a time, then the 12/2 wire would be just fine and this is the way I have seen many a water heater installed. The thing I did not care for is the use of two single 20 amp breakers for a 240v load. Code requires the breakers to be tied together so that both trip if one trips. If he gets the correct breaker, this should be safe. Static...See More240V circuit breaker amperage question
Comments (14)This forum software confuses me, so I'll just reply to everyone at once. "Are there no labels on this compressor?" Yes, it's labeled 15A. I thought I included that but may have forgotten it. Thanks for the info. "If you change the breaker, you need to change the wire." Right, I understand that. What I should've said is install wire capable of carrying 30A and start by installing a 15A breaker, then size up if needed. I'd planned on going a wire size up once I determine what the size I need is anyway, since from what I've gathered there is no reason not to do that, and if I ever need to repurpose the circuit, I can install a larger breaker if needed. As far as the amps question, I think I understand the answers. I guess what I wasn't getting is that measuring the two legs of a 240V circuit independently wouldn't mean anything because without both legs together, it isn't a 240V circuit. What I was asking is akin to if you installed two 20A single pole breakers right above/below one another and connected each to a 120V receptacle, you would have two 20A circuits, so total 40A. If you connected both of those to a 240V receptacle, then you would have a 240V receptacle, but the amperage would still only be 20A since the voltage has changed. I know that wouldn't be safe because 240V circuits breakers need to be tied together so if one trips they both trip, and I'm probably not wording that right, but that's what my original question was about. I just didn't get that the amperage doesn't add when you have two 20A breakers because the voltage also changes. It's my understanding that a 240V breaker is no different than two single pole breakers except for the bar that ties them together so they trip together, so my analogy seemed reasonable to me. As far as your answer regarding wire size being governed by current, I understand that, but what I was saying is that I see multiple different wire sizes for the same voltage, current, distance and conductor material when I look at different charts. When you say a 14A circuit needs 14 gauge wire, I assume that could change depending on if the length of the circuit is 25' vs 250'? Maybe it would be easier if I just tell you exactly what I have. 1) Compressor - labeled 15A on the motor. Wire distance from load center about 35'. 2) Table saw - Delta Unisaw model 36-829. Wire distance to receptacle, approx 45', with a 10' 12 gauge extension cord from receptacle to tool. The manual says "A separate electrical circuit should be used for your machine. This circuit should not be less than #12 wire and should be protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse" 3) Band saw - Grizzly model # G0513X2. Specifications say it draws 10A at 220V or 20A at 110V. I have mine wired for 220V. The wire distance from the load center is approx 35'. These three items are what I am trying to determine wire size for....See More3 Ph Generator supplying single phase
Comments (12)I tend to attempt to find all the pitfalls possible in a project. This could, in fact, be pretty easy. There are just too many unknowns to say at this point. "Little town" means different things to different people. A city slicker might feel that a city of 20,000 is a little town. I grew up in a village of 2,000 embedded in a township of double that population so I feel differently. I envision your two buildings each having a residential-size, 200 amp 120/240 service. That would probably be good. If there is one service to both buildings, terrific. What are the real power needs? on line with a typical suburban residence, or is a well pump involved? How about microwave transmitters? Then there is the genset. Is it a portable model on a trailer or meant to be permanently installed? Can the output be switched to different voltages? If the latter, transformers are in place and might be useful for you. It may already have the capability built in to power two or more structures. The instigators of this project appear to be anxious to do it on a low budget. That's great unless they spent too much money on an unsuitable genset already. Maybe you are thinking that you'd be better off buying a couple of inexpensive residential type generators. That could be so. What I do know is this might involve more creativity or experience than a typical residential backup genset installation. If manual transfer is OK you can probably do it for a lot less money. Automatic is always more costly, but it might be just a little more or it could be a lot. That is especially true if you can train the people involved to shed loads manually if they exceed what is available from the genset. Are these buildings close together if on separate services (meters)? That would be positive. If separate services note that I am not a pro, but if the loads are significant, I'd be looking to move all essential circuits to one leg in one service and use one generator leg to power that building provided that only 120 is needed. The other two can be used to power the larger load building. One thing that has to be taken into consideration is exercising the genset. Unlike nat gas powered residential backup gensets, a diesel engine running on conventional liquid fuel needs to be brought up to operating temperature and run for some time to avoid sludge buildup. You probably need a signifiant load to do that. I can't say if you have those conditions with a 100 kVA genset and your buildings....See Moreelltwo
7 years agoRon Natalie
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoelltwo
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoelltwo
7 years ago
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