Here's the link to the company under the Optional Link below-- should have linked it to begin with, sorry. I'll try slicing them thinner, and not going so long. I'm certainly ready to believe mine have been overdried. The ones from this company are sort of the opposite of other commercially dried fruits, though-- it's all very dry. Even their raisins are light and crispy. I much prefer home-dried, too-- that's why I'm trying to find something that my daughter can handle (without losing patience, which happens quickly!). Commerical raisins and craisins have been fine, but commercially dried apples, mango, pineapple etc. are either too chewy or have way too much added sugar. I pulled some of the banana off today when it was mostly done but still a bit squishy, and that went over pretty well. Kinda the opposite of what I was going for, but maybe I can partially dry them and store in the fridge (although that fails to meet the objective of having something I can tote around for a few days at room temp). Spray drying?! I'm sure you're right, not doable at home-- but what is it? Here is a link that might be useful: Just Fruit

From my understanding determinate versus indeterminate firstly refers to growth, shape and size and only then to production. In other words growth stops at a genetically pre-determined hight and structure achievement (although there is a clear correlation between both features, ). Generally speaking, determinate tomatoes grow more bushy and less high and should be more productive for a single, (hopefully) larger harvest. That doesn't mean they wouldn't make a few more lateral shots and produce more when kept longer under good conditions. If the behavior of a so called determinate is clearly indeterminate, - it's most likely that it simply is falsely called determinate ;-)

Vardman can you take a pic of what you mean? Do you mean fabricating shelving or actual trays? Im fine with either just wish I had a pic to help out. Also im very handy so I can work with wood and everything else once I have the idea. This setup was done just to get the planst under the lights but im aware that it could be more professional. Anyway thanks for reading and checking it out and commenting I appreciate it! Below is the T5 (I cleaned it up since this pic)

These are three DIY LED spotlights with different lens and reflector systems: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LedSpotLights.jpg Left to right: 1. Eight "3W" 660nm LEDs with 20mm reflectors. http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED20mmReflectorAndLens.jpg Spot projected 100 inches on ceiling with tiles 4.375 inches apart: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED20mmReflectorAndLensSpot.jpg I calculate the beam angle to be approximately degrees 2. "10W" "full spectrum" LED with 90mm reflector a. without lens; http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED90mmReflector.jpg Spot projected 100 inches on ceiling with tiles 4.375 inches apart: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED90mmReflectorSpot.jpg I calculate the beam angle to be approximately 35 degrees b. with Fresnel lens: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED90mmReflectorAndLens.jpg Spot projected 100 inches on ceiling with tiles 4.375 inches apart: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED90mmReflectorAndLensSpot.jpg This is the most uniform of the spots. I calculate the beam angle to be approximately 15 degrees. 3. "10W" "full spectrum" LED with 44mm reflector and lens: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED44mmReflectorAndLens.jpg Spot projected 100 inches on ceiling with tiles 4.375 inches apart: http://www.general-cathexis.com/images/LED44mmReflectorAndLensSpot.jpg I calculate the beam angle to be approximately 27 degrees.