Well first you need to figure out why you have dead grass. From your pic it's hard to see really what you are talking about exactly. As grass1950 pointed out, thatch is a layer of dead material on the soil surface. Maybe you have thatch, but it appears as if you have areas of brown grass, probably dead unless it's dormant, but by this time of the year most grass shouldn't be dormant, even in Colorado. Grass needs only a few things; sufficient sun, sufficient water, good soil with sufficient nutrients. A soil test will help with the soil part. If you don't irrigate your grass in times of drought, it will turn brown. Is your grass getting enough water? Was your grass ever all green? Did it turn brown after the weed and feed? Do you know what type of grass you have? Are the brown areas the same type of grass as the green areas? Where are you located?

Loved, I used m.g. In the blue box their bloom booster and it worked wonders. So after alot of research and thought ( ok and being nosey) I went to one of the hydro stores and bought some monkey business fertilizer to test on one brug ( npk 15-50-15) it drank it up and grew like crazy, blooms galore! It is not organic, nor cheap it cost me $49.00. The others with m.g bloom booster was good but no comparison.The downside is it chalked up the top layer of the dirt and needed flushing, and its like crack once started you have to used it or they wilt awful.Go to one of the hydro stores or order online.I will be using it on all of my brugs this year as my growing season is very short, and brugs have become my crack and I gotta have em!

Overwatering isn't about giving your plant too much water, but rather having a soil mix that holds on to too much water. Money trees love water, but they also love fast-draining aerated soil. Your plant isn't getting enough water. The botanical name for these plants is Pachira aquatica. They've given it this name for a good reason, they grow near bodies of water. In other words, your plant is dying of thirst. Being in such a dry gritty mix, you're going to have to water it much more often than usual just to keep it hydrated. Mine grows outside for most of the year and I have to water it on an almost daily basis; and I don't even use a gritty mix, and it's in a self-watering pot.

I used to use MG 24-8-16 or 12-4-8 liquid, both are 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, but they both lack calcium, magnesium, and several of the micronutrients; plus, all their nitrogen comes from urea, which tends to cause coarse growth, large leaves and long internodes, not the formula for keeping plants compact and full, especially in the low light conditions we put up with indoors. A while ago I wrote something about Fertilizing Plants in Containers. Before I wrote it, I asked myself what the my goal was insofar as nutritional supplementation is concerned. I took what I wrote and rephrased it in question form. A) Are all nutrients essential to normal growth contained in the fertilizer? B) Are they represented in a ratio that closely mimics that at which the plant actually uses the nutrients? C) Are the nutrients in a form that makes them readily available for uptake? D) Is your fertilizer formulated and does it include ingredients that reliably allow you to ensure that the o/a concentration of nutrients, collectively, will not rise above a level that makes absorption of water and the nutrients absorbed in water difficult or impossible for the plant? E) Is your fertilizer formulated with and does it include ingredients that reliably allow you to ensure that the o/a concentration of nutrients, individually, will not become low enough to create actual deficiencies; and, does it reliably ensure that individual nutrients will not become elevated/skewed to the extent they cause antagonistic deficiencies. An antagonistic deficiency occurs when an excess of one nutrient causes a deficiency in another. Iron and manganese are particularly strong mutual antagonists, and phosphate is mutually/strongly antagonistic with a number of nutrients. Mulder's Chart illustrates known antagonists and synergism: If relative to your fertilizer you can't answer in the affirmative to questions A-E, you can make better fertilizer choices. Thanks for the kind words, Mike & NHL. Al