Get an HVAC tech or plumber to unclog it mechanically if you don't know how to or can't. Chemicals are not a good idea.

The question in my mind is how does this go into the "house's drainage system"? If it goes to the soil pipe system, it would need a trap. The mini split drains, however, are not supposed to have traps.

Being in the process of taking apart and cleaning all of mine (I am finished with 4 of 7.), I am beginning to believe that some neutral detergent should be carefully poured into the condensate tray, every time the filters are cleaned, followed by a rinse. Some kind of tablet in the condensate tray might be a good idea as well.

OP, use only products designed for HVAC use in that drip/drain tray. Do you know what kind of tube or pipe is used within the walls? I really think that you need to access the other end of that drain tube if that is at all possible.

Try useing a tiny funnel to pour water through detatched tube ( 1 part bleach/5 parts water will do no harm here and possibly help with alge). Run a piece of tube(available at hardware store) from evap to a bucket to see if leak stops. Re last test. Things besides blockage can happen at evap to cause leaks. These things often elude technicians but the test will tell you if there is a problem.

Take it off the wall, take it all apart to clear the line. Then you'll realize why mini splits are a fad at best.

That's my professional opinion since day 1 and I'm sticking to it.

#Nothing beats a ducted forced air system.

Klem, I would not suggest any bleach until the blockage is cleared. The funnel is a good idea for starters, but OP has already tried vacuum and pressure. It the drain tube is detached and the app;lance is still on the wall, the OP probably already has the main cover off and the condensate tray removed so the drain pigtail is sticking out of a hole in the wall right now. Probably about 3' into the wall th epigtail is coupled to some other kind of tube or pipe. Too much pressure might detach that connection.

Austin Air, the OP has a clog in the drain line that is South of the appliance completely,. The OP apparently has the condensate tray removed.. Suggesting that the OP remove pump the refrigerant out of the system and completely remove it for cleaning is like suggesting that someone pull the engine from a car and overhaul it when the exhaust system has a clog and that system has already been detached at the engine manifold and the clog already confirmed to be somewhere downstream of that connection.

OP do not use bleach,it require's common sense I naturally assumed you would use. According to ionized that's possibly not be true and you might spill the stuff on you,the wall and your floor. Disregard my observation regarding leaks caused by issues other than glogged line. Now I'm faced with refunding people's money I charged for leak remediation other than line cleaning. Sorry if I cost you needless time or caused you to ruin your carpet. I hope you get it worked out.

Ionized, the problem is in most cases lack of access to get to the problem.

How does one gain access?

#Removal.

No pictures, nothing to show what or how the appliance is attached to the wall. Most of the time they are installed in ways in which you will never have to work on or perform maintenance on them.

# I don't have a crystal ball that works... do you?

OP, I just retread your post. You Indicated that you would like to mix bleach and drain chemical. Please do not mix anything together with these. They are probably the most dangerous household chemicals. They are very reactive. You risk injury.

austinair, OP has access as indicated in the initial post.

" i can't access the other end of the pipe because it goes within the wall to the house's drainage system."

Copy and paste... what does he/she say? I read it, did you?

Yes, Austin Air Companie, I read it and concluded that the OP had adequate access to the appliance end of the "evaporator" drain. OP detached the "pipe" and tried to clear it with a blower and a vacuum. There appears to be no need to pump down the refrigerant, cut the lines, and remove it from the wall. It is, in fact, pretty easy to get to the drain in my Mitsubishis after you know how to do it:

Remove main cover

Loose the drain tray

unhook drain tube

(If there is enough play in the line, it is probably possible to unhook the drain tube by removing the "corner box" (as named by Mitsubishit). That is a part of the case that remains after removal of the main cover. It snaps off the bottom right allowing you to look at the area where the refrigerant lines, electrical cables and drain tube make their transitions from the wall to the appliance. There is no such corner box on the left side of mine)

After you get used to the operations, it is obviously that the manufacturer has set them up pretty well to be serviceable as installed on the wall, despite how tightly packed in all the parts are. I replaced a blower motor and it took a while, but I will be able to do it, probably, in less than an hour if I need to do it again. Factory training probably covers a lot of the disassembly issues that slowed me down the first time.

OP, any luck yet?

"It is, in fact, pretty easy to get to the drain in my Mitsubishis."

You know what separates you from him? Yours is yours and his is his.

There are probably limitless combinations in how his drain line was run compared to yours.

The drain tube may have a kink in it? It's probably the cheapest tube money can buy? How much you want to bet?

"EL Cheapo Drain Tubing"

A kink in a new drain works fine. Over time algae and gunk build up where?

There appears to be no need.......? What crystal ball are you looking into? Model # / Serial #?

Austin Air Companie, let's advise the OP. I have a Mitsubishi, maybe he does and maybe he does not. He has gained access to the drain tube. The clog is in the wall and independent of the appliance. You advised the OP to (pump down and) remove the the interior appliance and disassemble it to clear the clog. You do not appear to understand the problem; I was trying to educate you. The OP has that part in hand. It appears that you are entirely unfamiliar with mini splits, are missing the logic to trouble shoot a clog, or you are trolling.

" Has this forum been taken over by an aggressive non helpful "Pro?"

More like discussions winding up in who can pee highest on the wall contests. The root cause usually turn's out to be failure to follow the discussion and/or misunderstanding the message someone is attempting to convey. Post starters regularly confuse matters by omitting key info then it go's downhill from there. At any rate there's not much that can be said about onstopping a drain line,at least that's what I thought until now. :)

The problem here is reading something and then putting words in where you want to cram them.

No where did I say to pump the unit down and disconnect refrigerant tubing. I said to take it off the wall, take 'it' apart... meaning the drain. But yet you foolishly put words in my mouth when that is NOT what I said. If you're going to try to fix something yourself without a pro... the pro expects you have some common sense.

Once the condensate water leaves the unit where does it go? common sense

Mini splits are attached with excess line set, drain tubing etc. Are they not? Common sense.

If there is a kink in the drain tube down with in the wall how are you going to fix it? HOW? please tell me. I want some fairy tale answer. (common sense to me, obviously not to you.)

But then ionized has this attitude about him like he is standing right over the problem with 'x-ray' vision.

If you think this is helping someone, you need some help yourself.

I live in reality, not some fairy tale. Naturally, what I say isn't going to garner praise because what I say is truth and people want some 'miracle fix' that doesn't exist.

WHY do you suppose the OP comes here asking to pour something down the drain to clear it?

Then you wonder where all the pros are after awhile..... to leave you amateurs to your fairy tale nonsense.

Reality is, if they came here because they don't know how to unclog a drain, then they need to hire someone... Also, this drain is smaller than your normal plumbing drain so it requires different tools that many people don't own. Doesn't mean there is a kink, if there wasn't a kink there from the start then the kink did not magically appear. You also cannot assume they have the cheapo corrugated drain (which I agree is garbage), we dont have that info. Calm down geez.

OP, if you are still reading this, and manage to get the existing drain unplugged, I have some suggestions to keep it from clogging up again if you want to keep trying to use the existing drain to avoid tearing into your walls. Please note two things, however, if you can get to the other end of the pipe or tube in your walls, you stand a good chance of unplugging it. Also note that fixing and painting drywall is a relatively inexpensive process that might allow a more permanent fix by changing to hard pipe or a different flexible tubing type.

Make sure that your unit has its drain running out to the same side that the opening in the wall is on. Most of them have the option of draining out either the right or left side, but I have seen them installed such that the condensate runs to one side of the appliance only to have the pigtail drainage tube pass all the way across the back to drain out the hole on the opposite side. Make sure the pigtail has as even a downward slope from the condensate tray into the wall as possible. There should be no upward slope anywhere because it will encourage water and crud accumulation. It should be fairly easy to remove the condensate tray completely for cleaning. (I feel like you are already mostly there if not past that point if you have removed the drain pigtail. Check YouTube for videos.) Use some condensate drain tablets to discourage microbial growth in the tray and the drain lines. Now they are marketing specific products for mini splits rather than having to cut down gel tab and whatnot products designed for larger ducted systems. Rectorseal ACTABS DMSS is one product and PurCool Green Mini Strips are another.

Note that if you take the main cover off and remove the condensate tray you will probably have great access to the entire squirrel cage blower to clean that with a vacuum cleaner and great access to the coils that can then be cleaned with a foam cleaner if visible lint is caught on that. If no visible lint is in the coils, you can spray on a neutral to slightly alkaline pH coil cleaner like Nu Calgon Evap Pow’r -C. If you keep the crud out of the coils and blower tube, it will probably help keep the condensate drain system more clear and condensate flowing.

If Austin Air’s clear
intent, in the quote below, was to direct the OP to remove from the wall
something other than the indoor mini split appliance in order to clear the clog
from his condensate line, I apologize to the readers of this forum, especially
the OP, for making them read my misdirected corrections. I assumed that “it” means the indoor high
wall appliance and “take it off the wall” means to remove it entirely which
would require parting the refrigerant lines and disconnecting the electrical
connections in addition to the already disconnected drain line. I see no other clear noun for that pronoun.

“Take it off the wall, take it all apart to clear the line.
Then you'll realize why mini splits are a fad at best.”

The take-home message to someone with a clogged drain appears
to be to remove the mini split and install a ducted system because minisplits
are bad. That, is hard to understand
because clogged condensate lines are common to any mechanical residential
cooling system. Advice would best be concentrated on clearing the line. After the mini split fad is over, there will
still be condensate lines that need to be cleared of clogs.

Vith:

I'm getting comments like "forum being taken over by an aggressive non-helpful pro..." and you want "ME" to settle down? When I continuously have to defend MYSELF in a forum filled with amateurs?

Go back and read all the nonsense directed at me? People putting words in my mouth and no common sense what so ever.

This is what I originally said: "Take it off the wall, take it all apart to clear the line."

Common sense: let's break it down: Take it off the wall: Take the appliance off the wall to gain better access to the drain.

There is excess tubing, electrical and even drain tubing to remove these from the wall without any refrigerant reclaiming. Doing this requires you to have common sense and doing it "CAREFULLY". But I don't spell this out because I assume you know how to 'change a light bulb' without full documentation.

Take it all apart to clear the 'LINE'. Ok if you think take it all apart means to dissemble the UNIT. You should never attempt to do anything for yourself ever again. You're not cut out for it.

There may not be a kink in it.... you got that from your magic 8 ball right? There's at least a clog genius why else are we having this lengthy discussion? The OP said he has an 'Older Unit" that had the same problem. He used a blower and vacuum on the 'newer' machine many times with no success.

If you're not going to READ the complaint how the hell are you OF ANY HELP? Please TELL ME THAT.

The moral of this story (why I spent all this time on this thread)

To show the OP as well as others reading this thread the CLEAR difference

Between "Paid for professional help and FREE amateur help"

Realize the help I provide in this thread is 'free'. If you hire me, there is none of this psycho babble among amateurs.

Enjoy.