I hold my bought plants till fall and then plant them. Is there a shady spot to hold them in their pots till late september or October?

These are knockouts and they don't seem to do well in the shade. Also, do you worry about the plants outgrowing their pots during the summer and dying? Thanks!

I agree with holding them until at least end of September. You can start amending now though. How aged is the horse/manure/wood chip compost? The nitrogen robbing happens when you bury wood chips. If you spread them thickly as mulch and keep them watered some, they will enrich the area in preparation for planting with no fear of stealing nitrogen. They'll compost down some too, especially if you sprinkle with urea and water occasionally . I would advise to stay clear of peat moss, not because it will acidify anything but because it adds no nutrients and if allowed to dry out, becomes hydrophobic.

Just my opinion though :-)

Adding my thoughts about growth during the summer. Most of my in-ground and potted plants go into survival mode during the summer with growth spurts coming in spring and fall. During the heat of summer, even with well established shrubs, I get some browning of foliage and sun scald.

They are your plants, you can certainly do what you want to do :-)

I never amend the soil for trees and shrubs (I do for bedding plants). I was taught that trees/shrubs need to learn to grow in the native soil right away. I think it's a waste of time and resources. And I never use peat for anything here, agree with PK. I just dig the proper size hole, break up the sides of the hole a bit with a spade, place the plant in, water it well, then backfill. After that, I drip water once or more (if no rain) a week, until established.

It is a risk, as others have said, to plant in this heat. I've done it, and it turned out ok, but still a crap shoot. I have kept things in their pot until Fall, and just kept them well watered ... they're fine, just like they would be if still at the nursery. If the roots start getting tangled up in the pot, or overgrown, just gently pull them apart (cut lightly if necessary) at planting time.

If you're planting KOs in a bed, not your yard, and keep them mulched and well watered, it's probably ok to plant right now. But I'd wait til Fall for Wax Myrtles. They're too pricey for me to risk. :)

Thanks for everyone's input!

PKponder... I'm not sure how aged the horse manure is... the woman said it was definitely aged and I don't know if she adds wood to it periodically or what. She said her horses don't eat weeds and was very indignant when asked if it had weeds. If woodchips are aged in a compost, does it leach less nitrogen? About the wood mulch, I've read a lot about this growing trend and it sounds fabulous, but it's just the ...hmm, hmm... roaches. In my neighborhood they're huge and even fly! Someone warned me that hardwood mulch was like "roach motel" for roaches. So, I just can't do it! But, I thought I would splurge on some cedar to protect from sun but know it doesn't add nutritional value. I know you said your bushes have growth spurts but I have to water mine everyday or they start looking like they're dying but I'm also afraid it's making them grow. I was worried about them dying when they outgrow the pots. Some of the roots are coming out the bottom.

You could plant them now but would still have to water them everyday until they adjust, which probably would happen this fall. As long as you water them everyday, I don't think it would by any more stressful on the plants than leaving them in the pots. Make sure and keep the grass away from the plants as it will draw more moisture out as well.

That being said, I would keep them in the pots and give them afternoon shade. I think the hot afternoon sun is your biggest enemy.

I would be a little concerned with the horse manure. If they are not eating any weeds, it is probably because she uses herbicides. As long as she is only using 2-4D, it will be ok. But if she is using Picloram (Grazon) or Dicamba (Weedmaster), it could have buildup that could kill plants.

Thanks, GaryBeaumont ... I was kind of thinking along your same line -Agree how would planting it be that much different than the pot? And didn't realize that about the herbicide. I'll have to check into that. Would you plant them in ordinary dirt like some people have suggested or would you amend it with anything? The horse farm people also have a great deal on sandy loam and I originally heard roses love it but I've also heard not to add sandy loam to clay. Is anyone familiar with cotton bur? Everyone in my town raves about it. It's supposed to be 10% nitrogen. I've heard some people plant in almost pure cotton bur and manure and others use 1/3 mixed with compost. But, I didn't know how much the heat changed things since few people plant in the summer. Does anyone know if I should alter the amounts or can I go by the same amounts as the spring? Thanks!

okay, I'll post another opinion based on experience. Since you are planting shrubs in clay, my opinion is that the sandy loam would be your best amendment and most important. You probably won't be moving them once they are planted so now is the time to get your drainage right. It sounds like maybe gulf coast area? Lots of rain on clay?And massive water bugs...eeek!!

Your cotton bur is a nice organic amendment but it will decay until it's gone. Use it whenever you wish and you needn't worry about damage to the plant, unless you pile it too close to the trunk and cause fungal problems. A little does a lot to add organic matter to your garden. It is a good if not great organic fertilizer but now and in the years to come, this will be a replenished amendment. Sandy loam is the very important mineral component that makes your soil looser and helps with drainage, it will be a permanent amendment. Does that make sense?

I'm trying to say, prepare your site well and your shrubs will thrive. Do you plan to amend the entire area where they are going into or are you planning to dig a planting hole and drop the amendments in before the shrub?

Thanks, PKponderTX!

Have you used much cotton bur? Finally someone who's familiar with it! Originally, all the locals recommended this to me before it got hot but no one else on the web seems that acquainted with it. I think it's 10% nitrogen and I didn't know if the intense heat changed things - and my yard really takes a beating. I have no experience with this so it's all new to me. I thought I found a good deal for some to be dropped off and a yard man had a fit and said in broken English to only add a LITTLE! He said it would "BURN IT!" Well, of course, that terrified me! How much cotton bur would you add? Is the brand that you use "Back to Nature?" Originally I was also really considering the horse manure/leaf/woodchip mix because I was thinking maybe this would be the safest choice since horse manure is lower in nitrogen than cotton bur. But, I would rather have more nitrogen but I didn't know what is a safe amount. BUT, to make things more complicated, the people over on the soil forum said not to add any amendments at all! But, when you said it doesn't burn, it reminded me of someone Nebraska who once said they normally mix 50/50 cotton bur and manure and only use 1/4 dirt. I don't know if the rules are different in Nebraska since it doesn't get as hot or if other people are too scared of cotton bur. If only everyone could just give me the same opinion it would make things so much easier! ha. You asked about the size area I would amend... I'm going to go with an area and not the hole. And I agree sandy loam sounds good. Originally, I heard knockouts love sandy loam and I've had two people tell me after looking at my dirt that I needed to replace it with sandy loam. But, a man at a well known rose nursery here in town said, "KEEP YOUR CLAY! DON'T ADD SANDY LOAM!" He said it had valuable nutrients and that sand with clay makes concrete. So, I have no idea what to do! I currently have one, little knockout bush in the clay and until I encircled it with bricks to hold in the water, the water was just running off. But, also the angle of my yard is bad right there so that might be a factor too. Have you heard about SHELLS? Someone on This Old House raved about them for breaking up hard soil but I don't know anything much more than that. Thanks again, PKponderTX for trying so hard to help me!! Always fun to talk to a fellow Texan!

last august when it was about a thousand degrees we planted a dozen knockouts, some hardy hibicus, 3 pond cypress trees and 2 citrus trees we live southof houston, so it's really hot and humid for a long spell in fall, but not much rain anyway, i use a processed poultry "fertilizer" which contains other nutrients and rose soil and lots of water the poultry manure is heated i believe, to kill the seeds, and it's buffered in some way so that it doesn't burn the plants

the theory i'm sticking with so far is to feed the soil and let the soil feed the plant and that is working very well so far i also don't water plants, i water the soil and let them take moisture up as they will i use drip irrigation and raised beds (not for the cypress of course) we bought everything on sale so it was all very stressed to begin with it all perked up and is still doing great

Zippity1, Your story about planting in August, South of Houston is so encouraging. I'm very curious ..what amounts of the poultry manure did you use? And what amounts of the rose soil? And could you tell me the name of the poultry fertilizer and the name of the "rose soil?" Thanks!

Thanks PKponder .. that's interesting about your fluffy raised garden not doing as well because of a low mineral content. Also, didn't know that about the "micro herd!" So, to sum it up, would you favor using any cotton bur/manure or would you just go straight soil like some people have recommended? Add sandy loam? Or would you break up the soil with anything else like shells, woodchips or peat moss?

THANKS!!!

Personally, I would be inclined to use the sandy loam and wait on adding any fertilizers right now. Those poor shrubs will have a hard enough time establishing roots in the heat without trying to push out top growth as well. In other words, compost would be ok, whichever you choose, but wait until fall to add manure (fertilizers).

Sun loving plants can handle bright shade for a few weeks (not that long until September) or afternoon shade. Even as a permanent spot, most may not thrive in it but they don't die in it, if they are transplanted into it.

Having said that though, I agree with the option of keeping it in a pot until a better time to plant, which is really just a few weeks away. If you see that water runs right through the pot, then you can repot it if you want. The media used at the nursery is intended seems like it is only good for the short-term until the customer buys it and changes it or is otherwise now responsible for keeping the plant alive.

stormy i use a poultry based fertilizer called Arbor Gate Blend which i believe is only available at arbor gate nursery in tomball, northwest of houston i have been really curious lately whether i could find something similar in another brand i use living earth rose soil and nature's way 2 year old leaf mulch compost so all of that would probably be hard to get where you are i do drive about 85 miles each direction to get the poultry fertilizer so i buy a lot when i go and i use it as topdressing with the leaf mulch compost.....

by the way, the poultry mix has lots of mineral additives ..... i've also added some medina hasta grow from time to time when watering by hand......

ZIPPITY1, thanks for the additional info! Does the Nature's Way leaf mulch have wood chips in it? I'm trying to avoid that. And so .. this sounds like a stupid question but what do you mean about topdressing - is that on the outside of the soil after the plant has been planted? And how much do you add of the rose soil and leaf mulch? Did the your roses with Arbor Gate out perform other roses or was this your first time planting roses? Your comment was really interesting to me because you planted in August in Texas and your bushes survived. Wow.

PKPONDERTX - It's looks like you're with the main consensus with waiting on fertilizer. And thanks for your vote for sandy loam and for all your previous suggestions!

PURSLANEGARDEN , thanks! Isn't the only problem with planting them now due to them needing lots of water? Right now, I'm having to water the plants everyday or they start withering so I'm already using a ton of water. It has started seeming like to me that no matter how much I would be watering them in the ground, it would still be less than what I'm doing now. Is there any other risk to planting them now besides the fact that you have high watering demands? Thanks!

Stormy, I know you seem to really hate the American Cockroach, but Demon WP does a good job of killing them. It is a wettable powder that you spray around the base boards of your house. It works for 3 to 6 months. Where I live there is plenty of rotting wood for them to live in. It cost about $10 per pouch but is well worth it. I have mulch around all my plants and do not have a problem with them. I did before I sprayed.

our neighbor just transplanted a dozen 15 year old live oak trees about 20 ft tall s today it hasn't rained in 2 months hope he likes watering and his well is great.....they should guzzle a lot of water right now... they used one of those big tree planting trucks and the trees were moved from across the street......

Stormy, my containers need watering 2x a day in the summer, you might need to look into that as it heats up :)

sorry i'm so late responding......i only have roses from arbor gate and from antique rose emporium at independence i can't say either have done better than the other i've had only one to die and it was the most recent purchase and looked peaked from the start but it was the only sdlm i've seen in two years so i bought it anyway....

my previous garden was just south of Arbor Gate in Cypress, which is how i got acquainted with AG, about 17 years ago at any rate the soil in that garden was extremely sandy and i mean sand 4 ft down so i used lots and lots of the leaf mulch compost and some worm castings and the arbor gate blend "fertilizer" it was great gardening there except for the massive amounts of 4 o'clocks and trumpet vine and wisteria that already existed when we bought the place i only had roses from arbor gate and antique rose emporium there, i had many more roses and can't say where they came from made a difference there either

regarding the two year old leaf mulch, i treat it almost as if it were mulch or any other compost and i've never come across any pieces of wood but i've always bought the finely screened leaf mulch and spreading any amount around the plants would be good

i plant only in raised beds, so the entire plant root is in rose soil

i do occasionally use medina hasta grow on my plants and i think it causes organic materials in the soil to hold more water as time goes on