Does good light help stop root rot
mat68046
7 years ago
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Comments (20)
Dave
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomat68046
7 years agoRelated Discussions
HELP! Phytophthora Root Rot Plum Trees
Comments (5)Hi again, Ok, I contacted my local Cornell Extension, and they cannot do the test (they don't have that equipment) - it must be mailed to the Cornell Plant Disease Diagnostic clinic. I explained what happened, and she does not think it is Phytophthora, because according to her the soil would have to be excessively wet "almost like a bog." She does not think it is worth having tested because they have been dead too long and other organisms may screw up the test. Now, everything I have read says it spreads in "wet" soil (not just "almost like a bog"), and that one of the main ways it is spread to new areas is through nursery stock. She thinks the trees "Just didn't take." Very odd, in my opinion. The fee for each test is $40, and each test (mold, fungus, nematodes) is a separate fee. I don't think it is worth it, since it has been too long. I'm going to call the nursery and explain what happened and ask them if they have certification proving they do not have Phytophthora. I already removed the mulch and soaked it in a 10% bleach solution, and when I removed the soil from the hole there were at least 100 earthworms in it, so I picked them all out and relocated them to another area of my yard that is pure clay that I've been amending with leaves and pine needles (nothing planted there yet). I'll soak the soil that was immediately around the tree in bleach, and then till the rest of the area and add a lot of compost and some sand for drainage. The plum was already planted above-grade, but I'll plant the mulberry even higher. I figure better safe than sorry and bleaching it is the safe way to go (my book on diseases says to throw the soil out - but that will only spread it to a new area!)....See Morestem rot in rooted cutting. please help
Comments (2)Should i have left it alone to begin with? I tried to, but i was watching it get more and more rotten by the minute and became convinced it was rot because of the clear yellowish liquid that came out when i poked the soft part with a needle. I have grown many non rooted cuttings and never experienced any rot or growth issues before. I will definitely leave it now, thank you for your input....See MoreRoot rot or something else? Haworthia help
Comments (7)Cleo, I think your plant was just adjusting to the change. If that is a haworthia or a hybrid thereof, then it will just be approaching the end of its growing season. Haworthias grow in spring and autumn. In the hottest part of summer, they go dormant. They also slow down in the coldest part of the winter. Most of my haworthias are in pure pumice but I also have some in about 40 percent potting soil and 60 percent pumice (I just never got around to repotting them). In zone 7, I water weekly during spring (March to mid-June) and in July, I stop watering. I resume watering in September and slow down on watering around November, when they are brought indoors. Even in winter I water maybe every two to three weeks, I really dont worry too much. The kind you have is one of the sturdier ones (might even been an aloe hybrid?) But as long as its out of the pot, you might as well mix up a better kind of potting mix. I strongly recommend more perlite than soil in your mix. You can water it as soon as you have it potted up---the best way is to water around the plant, closest of the walls of the pot and away from the rosette. If your nights are still going below 16C, you can probably still water it weekly. Keep it in bright shade for the moment though, and probably throughout summer. You don't need to fertilize it until autumn, it won't need it until it has recovered fully from being disturbed. Hope this helps Pagan...See MoreHelp Saving a Phalaenopsis Orchid with severe root rot
Comments (10)Louise, First, you might want to start a new thread for this. You have jumped in on the tail end of a three year old thread, and a lot of folks may just be looking over it. I'm located in the center part of South Carolina, USA and have very little experience with potting in sphagnum (in this part of the world we tend to prefer the fir bark mixes), so I'll leave potting mix preferences to someone else to comment on. Generally speaking the orchid plants sold in the "big box" stores and florist shops in the USA come double potted. the plant and potting mix are growing in a clear slotted plastic pot that is nested inside the heavy ceramic un-drained outer pot. This is the reason most new growers loose their first few orchid plants. It sounds like your plant was actually planed in the heavy non draining pot, and you have taken all the necessary steps to give it the best chance of survival. If your new plastic pot only has one or two holes in the bottom, consider cutting additional openings in the side of the pot for additional ventilation. Enclosing the pot and plant in a plastic bag increases the humidity around the plant, and this is good. You may also want to consider putting a few holes in the top and bottom of the outer bag to increase air flow. You want to enclose this plant in an atmosphere that has lots of humidity and warmth, and a bit less light than normal until the plant begins to grow. It also needs air flow to prevent any standing water from accumulating around the roots. The roots need to be moist in the potting mix, but not wet. Epiphytic orchids grow in the jungles attached to trees and rocks that are covered with moss, lichens, and other plants. When it rains, they get soaked, but as soon as it stops raining they begin to dry off. You need to duplicate this for your other orchids, but for this one plant that is already having problems, increasing humidity, temperature, and air flow without allowing standing water to collect around the roots is the proper method to deal with it.. This process is slow, and does not always produce the desired results, but when it does, it produces a great deal of satisfaction for a new grower, not to mention the knowledge and experience you have gained from the experience. Good luck. Bill...See MoreAnthony
7 years agomat68046
7 years agojamilalshaw26
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agomat68046
7 years agomat68046
7 years agoGreenLarry
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoaruzinsky
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoAnthony
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomat68046
7 years agoAnthony
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDave
7 years agoAnthony
7 years agoGreenLarry
7 years agomat68046
7 years ago
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