Yes, I'd agree that the degree to which a rose hangs onto its petals is more a matter of petal structure and genetics of the rose than the type of rose per se. Stiff, high substance petals (like Dream Come True) can last in their bloom form until the whole bloom falls apart and that can be several days. Anything that is considered good for cutting or a "florist" or "exhibition" rose tends to hang onto its petals longer than those that do not. While more HTs are considered florist roses than other types, that doesn't necessarily mean that HTs as a class are better at hanging onto their petals in general - it's just because the buying public expects that form in their cut roses. One of the most lasting blooms I can think of is Acropolis, which I think is a shrub. Still, the blooms stay on the bush forever and eventually age to a very pleasant parchment tone of pink after maybe 10 days. If you're looking for roses that don't blow quickly you really just have to check around within the types of roses. Like everything else in rose growing (e.g. black spot resistance, bloom frequently), blowing quickly varies a lot among roses within a certain class. Some subtypes of roses like Austins have a reputation for blowing quickly, but as mentioned above they were bred for this so that's not surprising. Even among these, I find that Austins like Molineux or Darcey Bussell hang onto their petals pretty well, at least average times. Cynthia

The azalea does not look like a rebloomer, hence it should not be blooming now. Azaleas bloom in the spring. When they get blooms in the fall, the blooms are poor, incomplete, and not worth worrying about. It is freakish behavior and is more prevalent on certain varieties, in certain climates, and during certain years. Petal blight gets worse as the blooming season goes on. This fungal disease, caused by Ovulinia azaleae, primarily affects the flowers of azaleas, but mountain laurel and rhododendron flowers can also be infected. Indian and Kurume azaleas are especially susceptible. The disease starts on the flower petals as tiny, irregularly-shaped spots, giving a "freckled" appearance. On colored flowers the spots are white, and on white flowers the spots are brown. The spots quickly enlarge and become soft and watery. Flowers rot and stick to the leaves. Infection is easily spread from flower to flower by wind, rain and insects. The fungus survives the winter in the soil. The most important things that you can do to control this disease in the home landscape are to pick and destroy infected flowers and avoid overhead watering. This fungus survives in the soil, so it is important to replace the ground litter with uncontaminated mulches. Rake and remove flower debris from beneath plants and, if possible, remove old flowers still attached to plants. Apply new mulch around the base of plants to serve as a barrier to new infection. On large azalea plantings, where it is not practical to remove infected flowers, make weekly fungicide applications beginning just before bloom and continue until the last buds open.

Like Diane said, take it outside! Put it in morning sun or dappled shade, not full sun the hottest part of the day, and keep it well water but not soggy. Don't fertilize it until you see active new growth. Then use 1/2 strength fertilizer on it. These plants are very small and fragile. Until they've had a chance to grow and get a decent sized root ball you don't want to over fertilize them. It can burn the roots. Once it's growing you can slowly move it out into full sun and it will thrive. I hate to say it but these grocery store minis are sold to be throw aways. Just like a dozen long stem roses would be when they're done. But they don't have to be! They are real roses and will grow outside, just like any other rose plant, if properly cared for. When it gets some size and is growing well you can plant it right into the ground in your garden and enjoy it for years to come!

Thank you for the replies.:) I'm in Iowa, zone 5. The vine gets morning sun, midday shade, and then dappled afternoon shade, due to an oddly protruding tree branch. While it has been unusually hot the past couple of days, the flowers started to discolor while temps were still mild. I will go ahead and deadhead and hope for a rebloom. I was surprised not to see it mentioned anywhere that this can have a tendency towards this discoloration. I have been trying to reduce maintenance for my front yard, mostly by eliminating plants that spread too quickly. But I can see it also has me turning a more critical eye to other plants. I may end up transplanting this Clem to the back---an area where I'd love some more clematis anyways. :) I purchased some no Id Clem's and am enjoying seeing their new blossoms. Great at time to be out in the garden!