What's in a name?: searching for heat tolerant roses in SA
jessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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jessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
heat-tolerant container roses?
Comments (7)The main issue with your heat is the size and type of container you're intending to use. There IS a great difference between the heat tolerance of the various types. Plant roots want cool, damp, dark conditions in which to live. Clay and ceramic are cooking utensils. You can actually buy cookware made out of those materials. They're very efficient as they absorb, retain and radiate heat for a long time. Plastic, foam, wood even concrete containers vary in their heat efficiency with foam, wood and concrete providing the most insulation from the direct heat of the sun's rays as well as the air and reflected surface heat. For a deck, you probably want the lightest material available to reduce the load and damage to the surface and structure. I would definitely suggest the largest containers you can handle and find, and definitely wooden or foam types as the first choice, with plastic used as a distant third. Think of the roots as perishable, requiring an ice chest to insulate them from heat damage. The material you choose should provide that heat insulation to prevent direct cooking of the roots against the container sides, as well as the heat cooking all of the soil moisture from the root ball and eventually damaging or even killing the plant. You may be able to successfully grow a hybrid tea in a seven gallon container without that extra heat, so you might want to consider at least a ten gallon, perhaps even a fifteen gallon container for the same rose on the deck. You are probably also going to consider a saucer under the pot to reduce the water damage and staining to the deck surface, but that is likely not a good idea for the plant. All of the dissolved "salts" in the water, plus those already in the soil and any fertilizers are going to reduce, concentrate, in the saucer and, hence, the soil like over cooking a soup or sauce too long, making them saltier and saltier until the concentration becomes toxic, even fatal for the plant. If you need to use a saucer under the pot, you'd be best served by filling it with gravel so there is some room for the drain water while the soil is kept out of it so none of the increasingly salty water is drawn back up into the roots. I think you'll find if you stagger the pot sizes with smaller ones, containing more heat tolerant plant types, in front of the larger pots, you can also reduce the direct and radiated heat effects on the larger pots. Some people plant other plants in with the roses, which isn't my preference. A vigorously growing plant needs all the moisture it can get. Most of the time, a pot becomes too restricted in size and water holding capabilities. Adding any other roots to that soil ball increases the competition between the plants and increases the necessity for you to water more often. As for which specific varieties of roses are more "heat tolerant", the most suitable information for you will come from those who grow them in similar arid heat to yours. A humid 100 degrees is far different from an arid 100 degrees. You can successfully grow "sun azaleas" in hot, humid sun. They will NOT grow in my arid, hot sun of similar recorded temperature even with properly amended soil, adjusted fertilizer and water levels. That humidity can make all the difference in the world whether a petal endures the heat, or simply fries. You'll find very, very few roses have petals which will endure full, triple digit sun exposure, particularly in a container which is significantly hotter than what the surrounding soil temperatures are just a few inches under ground. Also keep in mind that the air temps might be one level, but the reflected, radiated heat from the deck surface can easily increase the surrounding heat dramatically, sometimes an easy twenty degrees, or more, during the most intense part of the day. That's what enables people in cooler/colder climates to successfully grow more tender plant types in pots and against walls where the heat is greater and lasts longer. Of course, these are all choices and decisions you'll need to make and all are up to you. But, knowing some of the considerations to keep in mind, permits you to make the ones best suited for the plants you want and your "gardening style", time and energy. Good luck! Kim...See MoreWhat are the most shade tolerant roses for Central Texas?
Comments (4)Dont have Eden. I grew Benjamin Britten a long time ago - I think it needed more sun - grew octopus arms and didnt bloom that much - dug it up and potted it, it must have died and I didnt replace it. I have tried 2 Alister Stella Grays - they were both teeny tiny plants and didnt thrive, but I hope to get a bigger plant and try it - heard good things. I have a Crown Princess Margareta - ordere last year, potted for awhile, planted in the fall. Its growing well, am seeing a couple of blooms. So far....I like it. Re Austins - new for me this year are England's Rose - it was a new bareroot and just simply covered with pretty candy pink blooms! Wollerton Old Hall hasnt bloomed yet but covered in healthy buds and lots of them. Fighting Temerarie is just starting to open - lovely apricot - very healthy. Abe Darby is a real favorite, got another of those this year - covered in buds. Darcey Bussell just started blooming - lovely! Princess Alexandra of Kent has alot of buds - bush isnt as big as Wollerton Old Hall, Fighting Temerarie, Darcey Bussell or Abe Darby, but healthy and coming on. Princess Anne is growing well, no buds yet. I love the noisettes - ordered a bunch of rare ones from Vintage Gardens - looking forward to getting them to big plants in pots then planting them in the ground - preserving these that wont be available after the Vintage closing. There are so many roses that do well in Texas [be sure and mulch well during heat of summer!] that you shouldnt have a problem finding more than you have room to plant. I have a huge pot ghetto.......and have plans for about 5 more raised beds to hold more. Have fun!! Judith...See MoreHeat Tolerant Roses ??? What's in Your Garden??
Comments (64)Desertgarden, it still is "hot" here in October with temps ranging from 90--100 or so. It doesn't start to cool off until towards the end of October. October is what I call our up and down season. Nice weather one day and then the next it is hot. Then bam, come November 1st, it cools off dramatically. Usually by the end of November is it cold (cold being a relative term for me). We can have nights below freezing by the end of November and daytime highs in the 50's. Oh, and of course, our lovely fog season starts then. Can't see your hand in front of your face. That is when we have our 100-200 car pile ups on the freeways as people drive like they can see in the fog--which they can't. This year, we shall see how La Nina hits us. Last time we had a La Nina, we had snow for a couple of days with temps not above 28 degrees. Really bad on the citrus we grow here. Not looking forward to that again. Went to bed last night about 9:15 and it was still 94 degrees outside. After a week of 109--113, we are supposed to cool off to the low 100's. I think it is only going to be 103 today and they may be right since at 5 am this morning it is only 76 degrees. Roses are still pumping out blooms. Pretty Jessica, Blue for You, Eyes for You, Peppermint Parfait, Occhi di Fata, Candice, Wedding Cake (those blooms last forever on the bush) and Midnight Blue....See MoreMost Heat Tolerant Firs
Comments (84)While this thread was pointlessly bumped, I wanted to thank Dean for sharing that study. I have 2 A. pindrow and they've been just fine here. Also showing enough root rot resistance _for northeastern Maryland_ (elsewhere, YMMV) A. recurvata A. alba (there's a huge one at Longwood Gardens, and a big one at National Arboretum) A. nordmanniana Failures: any western US fir on its own roots - I've tried several of them; although my house came with a Concolor fir that was 40-50' tall, it was in slow decline the whole time and died after one of the mega-wet spells we had in the early 2010s. If you had to chose one as slightly tolerant for the eastern US, it would be that one. And they are common landscaping material up north like the NYC and Boston suburbs. Abies delavayi on its own roots Btw to 'Cliff' ungrafted Noble Fir, Abies procera, is 100% no go for anywhere in the southern US other than the highest mountain towns like Boone, NC. Will probably die the first year of root rot, as did mine....See Morejessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agojessjennings0 zone 10b
7 years agoHolly Webster(7bNC)
7 years agostrawchicago z5
7 years agoHolly Webster(7bNC)
7 years agoKhalid Waleed (zone 9b Isb)
7 years agostrawchicago z5
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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Khalid Waleed (zone 9b Isb)