Would an outdoor greenhouse cause fungus due to humidity?
Ryan (Zone 7A)
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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buckeye_brian2
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Greenhouse Humidity
Comments (3)I confess I don't know anything about growing nepenthes, but perhaps I can play devil's advocate... Is it possible that the deformed pitchers are due to some other factor? 30% doesn't sound extreme enough to me to cause a reasonably rugged plant to grow deformed. As long as your watering schedule is on track, there will be swings back to a more acceptable range regularly. Some ideas -- cooler nighttime temps (maybe a draft from somewhere?), change in light schedule due to lower sun angle, reaction to fertilizer (different type, burn, lower application because of winter), pesticide, etc., etc. Are all the nepenthes exhibiting the identical behavior, or is there another clue to be explored as a result of some sort of variation in the degree of deformities? I must say I'm surprised your orchids don't develop rot problems with your overhead misters. Even if the droplet size is small, running them as often as you have in the past could result in excess moisture in leaf axils, etc. With relatively high humidity in the summer, evaporation is less so that more droplets can settle the three or four feet to bench level. The only time I've ever seen overhead misters used successfully with orchids is in a gh with a 25-foot ceiling. Here's perhaps an option for you to consider: I don't know how your intake and exhaust are set up (or if you use roof vents, in which case this wouldn't work), but if you cover your intake(s) with that blue spun plastic furnace vent material, and spray your misters upstream of that, you may be able to achieve almost identical results as spraying all that water inside. You won't have a single contiguous climate from front to back, as it will warm as it approaches the exhaust, but it may help avoid some dampness -- especially late in the afternoon when water doesn't have time to evaporate before night. I must say, however, that it's impressive you are able to achieve a 20F drop with the method you describe. Achieving that sort of differential is a challenge for me, because I allow quite a bit of light into my gh. -Bruce...See MoreGreenhouse questions?
Comments (26)Hi Cole. After talking with several people, that have used the black poly pipes for hoops, they said they did not have problems with them getting too hot. As far as your observation on my evaporative cooling system goes, I think you are not familiar with how an evaporative cooling system works. It is strictly a pass through system. It is not like a recirculatory refrigerated cooling system where you are trying to seal a place up as tight as possible, and the same inside air is recirculated through the cooler over and over again. You must have constant air flowing in and out of a house for an evaporative cooling system to work. Here in the south everyone used to use evaporative coolers to stay cool in the summer. I used one for years myself. The way my cooling system is designed to work is basic science. The exhaust fans will exhaust the hot air which is rising to the top of the GH and this will cause a vacuum which will pull air in from any available hole. I have sealed every hole possible other then the evaporative panels, so the large majority of air will entering through them. The air that will enter through the evaporative panels will be a lot cooler then the air inside the GH and will naturally fall (hot air rises, cold air falls). This cooler air will settle along the ground of the GH keeping the plants cooler. As this air heats up it will rise to the top and be replaced by the cooler air coming in through the panels. You see, the exhaust fans will never be exhausting cool air, this defies the laws of physics. The object here is not to create a uniform temperature inside the GH from top to bottom, but only to keep the lower few feet cooler. When I say cooler, I do not mean 50 degrees here, I mean less then 100 degrees (hopefully around 90 degrees). In the end, I will end up with a temperature difference inside the GH. The upper air will be hotter then the lower air. There is no question here that there will be a temperature difference. The question is, how much of a difference it will be. Will it be 5 degrees or 30 degrees. There are too many variables involved to calculate this now, so I will just have to wait and see how it goes and report back here with the readings when I get them. Unfortunately, this will have to wait until next summer. If in the end, my system proves to be ineffective at keeping the lower part of the GH cooler, I will go back to the drawing board....See MoreExpert needed! JM bonsai fungus HELP!!
Comments (3)Japanese maple foliage is extremely sensitive and spraying it with anything other than plain water can create a phytotoxic reaction. FWIW, with the vast majority of woody plants - like your little bonsai - powdery mildew is purely a cosmetic issue and nothing that will seriously harm the tree. I agree 100% with cearbhaill - just let it be. Misting is completely unnecessary. Water as required at the base, thoroughly wetting the pot and potting medium. The tree should releaf. JM's can lose foliage for a variety of reasons and still produce a new flush of foliage. I'd keep it out of direct sun at all times until it has responded to a more normal growth patterns. And generally I would advise against any fertilizer but containerized or bonsai'd trees DO require supplemental fertilization. I'd wait until the plant has releafed and then use either a single application of slow release (like Osmocote) or a dilute liquid every 2-3 weeks....See MoreNew cuttings.. What's wrong?..Is it fungus?
Comments (3)I am hardly an expert on this stuff, but a month or so ago I started a single Euonymus americanus cutting set up just as you describe (except I put the pot under a fluorescent lamp); after a few days there was a white fuzz covering the tip of the cutting. I took the bag off, unfortunately just before I went to work; when I came home, the cutting was wilted. So I rebagged it, and it recovered, but the fuzz was still there. So I made a point of briefly removing the bag each day. The fuzz went away, and I decided to try just loosely placing the ziploc baggie over the pot. No more condensation on the inside of the bag, but the cutting did somehow manage to root in less than three weeks and is outside now. Bottom line is that you probably need better air circulation. I would NOT recommend repeating my Keystone Kops response!...See MoreRyan (Zone 7A)
7 years agodefrost49
7 years agogalinas
7 years agoexmar zone 7, SE Ohio
7 years agoChris (6a NY)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agoRyan (Zone 7A)
7 years agoRyan (Zone 7A)
7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agoRyan (Zone 7A)
7 years ago
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