Below 45 model: 566 Between 45 and 32 model: 545 Utah model: 522 And, you can probably add about 20 more ch to my equation, as I was late in getting my weather station up and online. Carolyn is describing my situation exactly. My pluots are very late to blossom. All pears are still dormant, but I do finally see a couple of leaves starting to push out this week on a couple of my earlier pears. My Peacotum has only now pushed out 2 blossoms. But, good new for my Minnie Royal and Royal Lee, they are better synced, just took two weeks for the Minnie Royal to really open up the blossoms, and some of the earliest Royal Lee blossoms are turning into little cherries. So, I should have my first decent crop of Minnie Royal/Royal Lee cherries this year. I will be building a netting cage for both of them this year, and am taking extensive measures to keep snails out of my trees this year. They were worse than the birds for ruining my stone fruit. I also had quite a few blossoms on both my pleurries I planted in January, but the danged Burgundy plum was much slower to wake up, so no significant cross pollination occurred, so highly unlikely I'll get any pleurries this year, so disappointed. They are interesting looking trees, though. the leaves are very unique. Patty S.

A long time ago, University of Maryland put out a chilling hours map. I have a copy of it on my blog and I put it in the link below. However, like Applenut said, the chilling at a specific location has to do with more factors than any map accounts for. Even a few miles away, might have more or less chilling. I don't use the map for anything other than a general guide when see what other parts of the county average. I prefer to use the local pomology weather station totals to give me an idea on our chilling each year. I only check, so come spring, I know if it will be a good or bad year, rather than be disappointed later on. Contact your local cooperative extension and see if there is a nearby weather station that tracks chilling totals. Although nurseries claim the area I am in is rated around 400 hours, I don't have many plants anymore that need more than 250 chilling units, and that is because in some years 250 is all we get. Here is a link that might be useful: Link to chill hours map

I am not from Austin but for Comal County most of the recommended fruit varieties are between 600-700 hours..I would suggest getting with the Master Gardeners or Ag. extension (now call Texas agri-life)folks for Travis County as to recommended varieties and by going over these you will know the chill hours for your area. Micro-climates in and out of the city can vary it 100+ hours. Because I am in a cold area here in Comal County I look at 650-750 chill hours as being more reasonable. Hope this helps you and I feel your frustration and wish you the best. If I google fruit trees for Austin Texas I am guessing I will get where you need to go. I will do it and repost a link if I find something useful for you. Happy Growing David http://www.soulofthegarden.com/article0202.html (give suggested varieties for Austin) (but not chill hours) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/peach/peach.html This link will take you to a page that shows all of Texas and chill hours on a clickable map. Plus peach tree info. Hope these get you where you need to go. I googled "fruit trees for austin texas these were two from the first page.

IÂm going to describe you two styles of pruning and I recommend you to follow the second . 1.When transplanting the olive trees top them at 60-80 cm above the ground. During the first growing period, try to establish evenly arranged side branches around the centre and a bare trunk up to about 30-60cm. For the next 3-4 years remove the suckers and the ones that cross one another. DonÂt prune them heavily at that age because that will set back the fructification. Then choose which 3-5 side branches you Âll keep, 20-30 cm apart each other and remove all the others and the main one. Prune during the winter. Paint them white if the trunks are without foliage and exposed to the sun (itÂs a practice to avoid sunburns). 2. DonÂt prune the first 6 years ! Then remove only the weak branches and top everything that is above 3m! ItÂs a bushy style that prevents the sunburns. I know that my English are hard to understand but I believe you got the idea.