Top Heavy Jade Leaning - Need Pot and Soil Recommendations
JerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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JerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Top soil vs Potting soil in quality control
Comments (20)Hmmm. No one ever talks about the microbes. Microbes make top soil unique - definitely not the same as sub soil. Microbes act as the interface between the organic material in soil and the plants. Plants will suffer in sterile soils, not matter how rich the soil is, without microbes - unless of course, the soil is treated with synthetic fertilizers and/or hormones. Plants in soil without microbes (and no fertilizers) will essentially starve. Dirt is not an appropriate synonym for top soil. The two are quite different things. Top soil is almost impossible to store, as the microbes require oxygen. The oxygen only penetrates a few inches in the best of soils, to about 8 inches max. Heavy soils can have top soils that are only fractions of an inch deep, or even none at all. Deprive the microbes of oxygen, and the microbes die in hours. Plastic-bagged, manufactured top soil, will not have appropriate conditions for microbes to survive if they were ever present. Even true top soil, if harvested through grading and stored in piles, will only be true, healthy top soil on the top few inches of the mound. Within hours all of the microbes below the top layer of the mound will have died. True top soil is a living thing. Top soil needs to be harvested and properly placed in a very short period of time. Take a yard of dirt (or at least a good pile) from below the top soil, mix it with fertilizer-free compost, mound it up in a remote area of your yard and watch what happens - nothing. Nothing will grow on that pile, even though it is dirt amended with compost, because it essentially sterile. After one to two years, the microbes will begin to permeate the top layer of the pile and plants will start to show up. With true top soil, the mound would explode with plants after the first rain. Manufactured mixes "cheat" by stuffing the created mix with fertilizers. This works, but is lousy for the environment in many ways, and "hooks" your plants on synthetic fertilizers like drugs. When you hear such names as Monsanto, Miracle Gro, etc. think "pusher". Microbes do not like synthetic fertilizers, so once using fertilizers, you are stuck using them unless you do a lot of work to fix the situation, or wait until the soil regains a proper ecological balance. Plants will grow well in many types of media, even water, if given proper aeration and proper nutrition, i.e. fertilizer. But this is needlessly expensive and again, potentially problematic for our environment. True top soil is magic. It's ecology is wonderfully complex and is only barely beginning to be understood. No manufactured mix will do what true top soil can do for your garden. Growing plants really needs to be thought of first as growing your soil. True top soil, air, and water are vital to most life forms on Earth. We would all starve without true top soil, unless we were able to subsist on fungi. Labeling requirements for growing mixes are virtually non-existent. Those ingredients that might be listed will be very vague. Notice that no synthetic fertilizers are listed, even if they are there in quantity. Anyone can sell any dirt as topsoil, and people often do as a means to avoid disposal fees for dirt. Get top soil from people removing their raised beds, those who have graded the top few inches of an area, people taking out lawns, etc. or from your own backyard. If there are unused areas of your yard that support a dense mat of weeds, at least during wetter, warmer months, then that is true top soil. Yes there will be weeds, but a good mulch will take care of most of that problem. My advice to any gardener is to start with good top soil, nurture that soil by continually adding organic material, worm castings and compost tea, and use a good mulch. These items are 80-90% of the battle for the vast majority of plants....See MoreCanna is leaning. Is it because of the sun or how I potted it?
Comments (3)Thanks for the info/advice. I repotted it/them in the biggest pot I could find locally (I think it's about 17"), buried the rhizome a little deeper and moved it to an area that gets more balanced sun. It's been overcast a lot here, so it hasn't gotten burned. Is it true that they can grow in just about any soil and can take being handled/transplanted a lot? I still have some of the lightweight stuff in the bottom so it'll probably get too topheavy. If they can handle "poor soil" in the bottom, I'd rather keep my really rich stuff for things that need it. (Don't panic - I'll put the good stuff on top). I also forgot to ask where in the pot to put the rhizome/stalk. I put it where the stalk (?) is in the center of the pot, which pushes the rhizome towards one side of it. Do I need to move it back where the rhizome is centered? (I also put another small one right next to it - bad idea?). Also, I've read some of the other posts about how fast they multiply/spread/grow. I want this one to GROW, but I don't know how much I want it to multiply - yet (which is why it's in a pot instead of the ground). I don't want to kill the babies unless I have to in order for this to get full sized. Is there any way I can keep it from choking itself out? Can I dig out any new little ones as they come up & plant those? Thanks again for all your help. - Mari...See MoreHow to trim a Top Heavy Jade
Comments (24)i always cut just above the node that i want to be the end of that branch. the little extra will dry up and fall off. the distance between the nodes is and indication of the light level. close nodes is an indications of sufficient light. more than say a half inch between nodes means your plant needs more light. some of us can not provide enough natural light all year long, so we prune yearly or so. hope that makes sense Doug...See Moreleaning jade
Comments (3)Puppy, how often do you turn the Jade? I turn my Jades (and other plants) once a day, at least. Some of my Jades get turned every few hours (when I'm home to do it). I agree with Norma. Prune the foliage lightly. Stand above the plant, looking down, and see if you can remove any branches that are leaning out past the rim of the container. Basically, prune the Jade inward, so that the majority of its foliage is located directly above the trunk. I'm not suggesting a "pom" style, just a means of strengthening the trunk for the time being. If you haven't used Pumice before, be aware that it holds a LOT more moisture than you might think. I would go heavy on the Perlite. Josh...See Morerina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com) thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years agochuckerfly
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com) thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
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7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
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7 years agoJerseyGirl (aka iheartorchids.com)
7 years ago
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