How to amend my soil? Not sure what I'm working with.

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

New home, new yard, completely new to it all having grown up in the concrete jungle.

The yard was pretty neglected, and had several shrubs grown wild and tangled up, and debris scattered around. Long story short, two months ago we hired someone to clean up the debris, dig up the old shrubs, level with top soil and reseed the lawn (a topic of its own). After removing the bushes, he left some plants that look like ferns or hostas for the meantime while we thought about and researched what we want to eventually plant there.

Yesterday, I decided to dig around in the soil to try the drainage test. It was also pouring rain the day before, if that matters.

One section of the soil bed has the most plant growth and gets the most full sun. This was easy to dig into, but disappointed to still find some debris and pieces of slate, and lots of old roots. Water drained after about 1.5 hours.

The second section that I dug was also easy, saw a few earthworms and snails, and the plant growth was moderate compared to the previous section. Water drained very quickly, about 20 mins.

The third section I dug, under the shade of a tree, I could barely scratch the surface! I couldn't tell for sure but it felt like I was hitting a tree root. This was about 8-10 feet away from the tree. I was only able to dig a very shallow hole another two feet further, with much effort. The plants here were small and not in good health.

We have finally decided we want to grow peonies, hydrangeas, a lilac bush and maybe a type of Weigala.

Do I just throw on some bagged compost and try my best to mix it in as much as possible? For the third section that I had trouble digging, Do I simply leave the compost on top and give it some time? How much compost and how much time? What about chicken or cow manure? Top soil?

Will the potential of tree roots be a concern in this section? We were hoping to plant hydrangeas here that would probably benefit from the tree shading the afternoon sun.

thanks for any and all advice

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Comments (4)

rgreen48
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
From the distance in the pic, it looks like everything is healthy. When you were digging your 'test holes', you were just using your shovel? For the tougher places, it's not uncommon to need a pick axe on areas untouched for a long time. And yes, for a tree that large, it's a good possibility that at 8' away, you were hitting roots. You never know though... get your self a pick ax and dig around in the areas where you want to plant. If you want to keep the tree, just be somewhat gentle and go slow. At 8' away, there should be enough room between roots to put in in plants. If not, think 'up' and build raised areas, or mounds.

As far as just 'leaving the compost on top'... well, unless it's just a mulch, it's usually better to incorporate it into the soil. As I said above, if you are specific about where you want your plantings, you'll want to explore the soil in those places a bit more. You could remove roots, but there's always a chance of injury to the tree. That's something you can look into how to do properly with experts on the trees forum. You'll need an id on the tree, from the distance of the pic, it's tough to tell for sure.
ahhhderrr
Original Author
7 years ago
Yes I only used a shovel. Here's a few close up shots of the areas I described that I want to plant in.

You can see how one side is super lush compared to the other sides. This was the easiest to dig, and gets full sun. The side under the tree with the hard soil has lesser growth, and are those weeds? I'm thinking maybe for this side I can add more topsoil and make a raised bed for hydrangeas .

So in order to successfully plant the peonies and hydrangeas that we want, I think I just need to mix in compost right? But how much do I need to add? Compost or manure?
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Or, alternatively, if you need to decompact the soil, you can use a broadfork, which is pretty much the lowest impact tool for decompaction. (Although with such a high percentage of sand in your soil, compaction may not be much of a problem for you) http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/breaking-down-the-broadfork-zbcz1601 >>>The broadfork is a simple yet powerful gardening tool that serves the purpose of efficiently loosening soil without flipping it upside down. You see, soil is composed of layers that actually accomplish important purposes: Bacteria, fungi and earthworms working below the surface are all actively creating tunnels that give the soil structure. This lively structure develops in different soil depths that have the right moisture and aeration conditions. To completely turn the soil over by using a rototiller or by double-digging disrupts this ecology for at least a while, so that you cannot rely on natural forces to help do the job. Imagine it this way: Every time you till, you destroy your soil’s habitants. Your otherwise free labor is then too busy rebuilding their homes and won’t instead be driving biological fertility to its full potential. Turning your soil upside down also has the detrimental effect of bringing back up weed seeds that are buried in the lower layers of the soil. Do a test: Till one bed with a tiller and don't till another bed; I guarantee you’ll see the difference with regards to weeds popping up everywhere. All this being said, if you want to grow super nice crops with intensive spacing, then your soil should be as loose and well aerated as possible. This is why organic farmers use different plows, like chisels and subsoilers, to loosens their soil all while bringing air into it and speeding up the mineralization of their organic matter. This technique increases short-term nitrogen availability, but limits the transformation of organic matter into humus. See it as blowing air on your fire — it burns faster, but won’t last as long. Simplistically, that’s how modern farming has been depleting soils for the last 100 years, and it’s one component of agriculture that needs to change in the future.The broadfork is one answer to this problem. When used correctly, its vertical tines will let water and air penetrate the soil, leaving its profile still upright. It creates an ideal environment for root growth, all while making it possible to build soil levels and rich humus.<<<
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toxcrusadr
7 years ago
Compost, or composted manure, are both very similar. Once you compost anything it kind of brings it toward a common denominator. Although manure can have a bit more soluble salts. I would add whatever compost you can get that you like. If more than one kind is available it's good to mix them too.

I don't think you need topsoil, you have pretty good looking soil that just needs organic matter. It will help drainage in the areas that don't drain well and will help with water retention in areas that do drain fast.

Those look like hostas in the last pic, I would keep them. Top dress with an inch of compost and put some mulch over that. The soil food web will incorporate the compost for you.

Hydrangea and lilac can get pretty big so make sure you account for their adult size when you decide where to plant.
kimmq
7 years ago
Where in the world are you?

Start with a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrients and perhaps these simple soil test (which you have already alluded to) may be of some help.

1) Soil test for organic
material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in
a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and
replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24
hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight.
For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the
bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above
that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole
1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains
away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain
away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs
more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the
soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful
of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is
released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a
finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your
soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant
odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria
will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter
can be bad as well.

5) Life. How many
earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5,
according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that
is not healthy.

These will be of some help in guiding you to what the soil needs to grow strong and healthy plants.

kimmq is kimmsr

How to amend my soil? Not sure what I'm working with.

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rgreen48

ahhhderrr
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How to amend my soil? Not sure what I'm working with.

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rgreen48

ahhhderrrOriginal Author

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ahhhderrr
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