Ripples in hardwood floor refinish
rm54
5 years ago
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gregmills_gw
5 years agorm54
5 years agoRelated Discussions
engineered hardwood floor over old hardwood floor
Comments (14)You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood....See MoreNew hardwood does not match old hardwood after sanding and refinishing
Comments (2)I have white oak floors throughout. Pictures will tell us whether red oak was used. Please post a few....See Morerefinish existing hardwood floors or pull up to do continuous flooring
Comments (4)OK...if the current oak is solid (3/4") you have a 20 year old floor that can live another 60 years. If you pull it you have wasted 60 years worth of flooring. That's a bit of a shame. To refinish oak/wood floors = $5-$7/sf. That's it. That's all. That includes labour and materials. Now, to remove it = $2/sf. And you still have NOTHING. To replace it = $7 - $12/sf for material + $4-$5 for labour = $11 - $17/sf. Hmmmmm. That $7/sf sounds pretty good right now, doesn't it. Right. Here's the best case scenario for wood everywhere. 1. Get species match (not all oak is white...just sayin'). 2. Get plank width/cut/grade match (yah...they are all different) 3. Get a wood flooring pro (someone who ONLY does wood floors...not some person with a hammer) to come in a do all the removal of all your other materials ($1-$2/sf...depending) 4. Have him/her lace in all the new wood into the existing wood (do the 1/2 bath and kitchen...no issues there) 5. Have everything sanded and finished all at once. When a wood flooring pro is offered a big, juicy, well paying job, they often give a small discount on the refinishing bit for the old hardwood. In other words, they are already there for a big job...what's it to them to sand an extra 400sf of old stuff? Not much. All their tools are already on site. They are making their income on the BIG stuff (install/demolition) what's a $1/sf on the old stuff between friends? See where I'm going with this? You can save a snick of money on the old floors by adding in a BIGGER job for the wood flooring PRO...something s/he can really sink their teeth into for several days worth of work....See MoreHardwood floor refinishing without a sealer?
Comments (18)Over a competitors stain, it is best to apply a one part water base finish such as Bona Mega as a sealer, prior to applying Traffic HD to prevent peeling. If, your contractor used Bona stain. He can apply Traffic HD over it directly. Applying Bona's sealer over a competitors stain can cause peeling. Your floor does not look like it is complete, yet. Ask what the next step is and how many coats are left to apply. It is normal to have a rough surface if, the floor has been water popped. Also, a water base finish will cause grain raise. This is normal and it will get smooth down by sanding the finish. Your wear layer does not look thin. I do not see any signs of fasteners coming through the wear layer. Additional sanding should not be a issue. You can confirm it by sticking a business card in a gap, make a bend and measure the bend. Minimum wear layer is 3/32. You should ask a Bona rep for more info, if, you still have concerns....See Moregregmills_gw
5 years agorm54
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agogregmills_gw
5 years agorm54
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoVith
5 years agojellytoast
5 years agohandymac
5 years agojfcwood
5 years agorm54
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojellytoast
5 years agoVith
5 years agorm54
5 years agojfcwood
5 years agojellytoast
5 years agoJane
5 years agoExecutive Hardwood
5 years agojfcwood
5 years agoExecutive Hardwood
5 years agoroses6638
3 years agoMelissa Schmitt
6 months agoMelissa Schmitt
6 months agoG & S Floor Service
6 months agoMelissa Schmitt
6 months agoG & S Floor Service
6 months agolast modified: 6 months ago
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