Please choose the aisle widths for my closet and laundry!
User
7 years ago
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Comments (14)
DrB477
7 years agoRelated Discussions
help me design my laundry closet please!
Comments (8)hi mara! Unfortunately, I think laundry in the basement is the only option for this house unless we want to give up one of the second floor bedrooms (which I don't think makes sense and would entail WAY more intrusive construction than we want). I agree that it's not ideal, but it is what it is. I sketched out a couple of ideas for the basement space...would you mind taking a look? Here is the current basement overall. The door on the right by the toilet leads to the new part of the basement under our kitchen addition. That space is already finished and is what I'm calling potential guest room/man cave. It has outside egress through a pair of "Dorothy doors". So the way it is now you come down stairs from the breakfast room into an unfinished basement with a cement floor, low ductwork and rubble stone walls and wind your way past open laundry, furnace, a non-functioning toilet in a tiny wood enclosure to reach the nice finished space. It's a pretty odd setup. The black dots in the sketch are steel support beams. We had an HVAC guy out yesterday who can fix most of the ducting issues. Our thought is to drywall the whole left section of the basement, adding lots of lighting and tile or pergo floors. This will give us a 12' by 24' rec room (we currently have a smallish living room and no family room upstairs, so I think this space will be important to future buyers). The plan is to use the upper right quadrant of the space for the utility functions of the basement: laundry, bathroom, furnace room. Plumbing and gas lines are already there, so I think this makes sense. It also has to serve as the hallway to the new portion of the basement. My husband's beloved workshop would get drywall and a door, but would otherwise be untouched. Here is the idea that I think I like best so far. A stacking washer and dryer and the laundry sink would be behind double pocket doors. The pocket doors would open all the way and stow in the wall by the shower. There would be a cabinet with storage below and space to fold laundry just opposite the laundry. There could be an upper cabinet or open shelves above. Access to the storage closet (which will have pretty low headroom due to ducting) would be from the rec room. Here is the other idea that I'm also considering. The stacked washer/dryer and sink would be behind double doors that swing open on heavy-duty hinges. On the inside of the left door, I could hang my iron and ironing board. On the inside of the right door would be a fold-down table. The right door would open all the way against the wall backing up to the shower and the table (I think it could be about 3' by 2') would unfold into the hallway space. In this plan, the access to the storage closet would be across from the laundry. If I wanted to keep the washer and dryer side-by-side and still have a sink, I'd have to put the sink where the shower is in the sketches above. I think it makes more sense to stack machines, keep to a smaller laundry footprint, and have a full bath with shower. So what do you think? Are either of these pretty decent substitutes for a laundry room? Thanks so much for taking the time to look and to make it through all of my rambling!...See MoreAisle width in a walk-in pantry
Comments (14)beautybutdebtfree- I didn't realize the drawing was not correct. That 15'1 is the width of the bath and walk-in together. Not sure why it's including them as one with the wall in between. cold_weather_is_evil- as stated in my last post, I have some serving dishes, plates, and cups reserved for family gatherings. I prefer not to leave them on open shelving where they could be damaged with regular dusting or because a child tried to reach for something and knocked them over. I'm not looking for a designer pantry. I'm looking for safe storage for fragile dishes. I can almost everything that comes out of our large gardens. Last year I had over 450 jars after canning season was over. With all the kids in school this year, I plan to do more. This doesn't include dry or canned goods I purchase at the grocery which isn't just a short walk down the road. I find it wasteful to drive if it isn't necessary, so my husband picks up milk once a week on his way home from work and we make a monthly trip to a large grocery once a month. It's not common, but it's how we choose to do things. I need storage for our life. ineffablespace- I could do 8" deep on the upper shelves pretty easily. Quart jars are a hair under 4", so I could do two deep that way. I'm going to need a step stool for anything over 7', so as long as I keep everything organized, I shouldn't have a problem....See Moreplease review my kitchen design - not urgent but hope to hear
Comments (23)As requested earlier from Davidro who wanted to understand traffic flow, below is a whole house "sketch" which shows our first floor layout (upstairs is only a loft) and second diagram is where I'm at with regard to kitchen design after input from you guys and after Ikea consultant/designer who was at my home today gave as far as cabinets fitting. Also, from the earlier discussion, I had some confusion about whether I could relocate the washer/dryer to the hall. The contractor who visited today didn't have any problems with the relocation. It helps a lot that our foundation is "pier and beam". Moving plumbing around is a whole lot easier. New location of washer/dryer may be a bit claustrophobic in the hall way outside the bathroom but I only do laundry a couple times a week for short spurts. I'm in the kitchen a whole lot longer and since the relocation of washer/dryer is the only thing keeping me from having the kitchen layout I REALLY wanted from the beginning (barring the fact the pantry has gotten quite a bit smaller), I am a happy camper. I'm going to lie low a while and get our bathroom done and maybe a roof before I come back with any updates on the kitchen. And for anyone who is in doubt, the Ikea prices for all cabinets is half of what price was quoted for Innermost cabinets by Home Depot. And the Ikea quote includes several of the appliances though I'm not sure yet if that is how I will really go. But cabinets -yes - their prices are too good to pass up. The money we save can go for the bathroom we're getting that has a curbless shower, and several other expensive details which Ikea can't help us out on. I'll still be listening but hopefully everyone can see the aisles around the island are considerably wider (maybe even too wide with my feet problems). If I need more pantry space, I'm fairly sure that several of the drawers in the main part of the kitchen will not all be used so I can use them for pantry space spill over if there is any. THANKS AGAIN (though I will definitely be back - still need to pick out countertop/backsplash/flooring/hoodOverCooktop and make decisions about appliances..) And since I haven't marked it well, let me explain that there are upper cabinets on either side of the cooktop and also to the left of the fridge. No uppercabinets on the sides of the "cleanup sink" with the large 6 foot wide window. Think I may wait until kitchen is done and probably install some open floating shelves on either side of cleanup sink - more for esthetics than function but I think I can wait until the last minute for that. (Maybe even some art work...)...See MoreFAQ -- Aisle Widths/Walkways/Seating Overhangs/Work/Landing Space/etc
Comments (7)Other considerations: . Trash & recycle pullout...works best in the Prep Zone, near the Cooking Zone, and, if only one and possible, near the Cleanup Zone. Far more trash & recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up. So, if you have to choose, put the trash & recycle in the Prep Zone instead of the Cleanup Zone. [That's the biggest mistake I made, I put it in the Cleanup Zone across a 6' aisle from the Prep Zone...it's my biggest regret by far in my kitchen.] Prep sinks...should be no smaller than 12" x 12"...and bigger is better - I recommend no less than 15" in each direction, 18" would be better, IMHO. Anything smaller is not very useful for prepping. Those smaller sinks are often called "bar sinks" b/c they're really only big enough for filling a glass with water or dumping a glass. They're not big enough to clean veggies/fruit or empty a colander. Zone protection...strive to protect the Cooking Zone from traffic - both through-traffic as well as in-kitchen traffic. While cooking, you are dealing with very hot pots/pans/food and you don't want to be tripping over or dodging traffic, open DW doors, etc. This usually means putting the Cooking Zone in the most "secluded" area...but not always, it depends on the workflow in your design. Work/Landing Space...Be sure you have adequate work and landing space near/around appliances and in zones. Sometimes skimping is required when it's a small kitchen. Prep Zone...36" continuous/clear countertop and next to a water source. Experience has shown that 42" is much better. Cooking Zone...See Cooktop/Range Cleanup Zone...See "Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink" Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink...A minimum of 24" of clear counterspace on one side of the sink, and 18" on the other side with the 24" at the same counter height as the sink. Sink - Prep... A minimum of 6" of clear counterspace on one side of the prep sink and 36" of clear prep workspace on the other side (again, 42" is much better). Refrigerator...A minimum of 15" of clear counterspace on the handle side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side or no more than 48" across from the refrigerator. If an oven is next to the refrigerator, the refrigerator should be the one placed next to counterspace. Ovens (Wall)...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space next to or above an oven if there it is on an aisle with through-traffic If it's on an aisle with no through-traffic, then the 15" can be across from it. MW...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space above, below, or nest to the MW. Counterspace if two zones/appliances are next to each other…Take the longest of the two and add 12". Cooktop/Range -- If the range/cooktop is against the wall, a minimum of 9" of counterspace b/w the wall (protected by flame retardant material) and the range/cooktop. -- If the range/cooktop is on the end of a run that is open, a minimum of 18" of counterspace is needed for both emergency landing space and a safety zone/buffer b/w the range/cooktop and end of the counter. -- The other side of the range/cooktop should have a minimum of 24" for both emergency landing space and workspace. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with no seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 18" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 24" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- Note: For functionality, at least 24" on each side is better, regardless of location of cooktop/range. This space can be shared with the Prep Zone on one side; if it is, then there should be at least 48" (36" + 12") on the side shared with the Prep Zone. -- Check your local Code. Some local Codes are more restrictive. If not, stick to these recommendations....See MoreUser
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