Hmmm, I wonder where I can get the same battery as wally world at higher price! By that I mean I avoid wall due to the fact they treat both the suppliers and workers like dirt. I am willing to pay a bit more if it means the workers are not getting the shaft. So, seriously, is there anywhere I can get the same battery even if the price is a bit more? Rolf PS - I don't dislike wally world because the are big. But the fact that they make their workers clock out and then continue working (documented at multiple stores throughout the US) is reason enough to pass on them. I used to dislike unions, but I have changed and now see them as an important check on greedy corporate management.

You need to post the engine model and type number from the engine itself. What you describe sounds much like a Briggs & Stratton OHV engine in dire need of a proper valve adjustment.

I hear bringing them indoors can add to their shelf life - but have not confirmed it. I can say that I use one of my tractors on the average several times a month. I can say that on the coldest days (in NJ) i need to have my starting procedure straight - as sometimes I dont have a lot of cranking amps and a strong second chance ... Once the motor has run for 2-5 minutes - I have a charged battery and a warm motor - so startups are not much of a problem. I was thinking about running both batteries on the winter mower. Basically to double my cranking capacity, add a some weight to the mower for snowy days, and to keep both batteries charged. You need some type of electrical adaption to get he second battery in - But I think you also need to have something in the wiring harness to prevent some type of potential damage (i think this is for when one of those batteries actually dies) ... Technical electric stuff which im not up on ....

lawntrouble - picking up on tomplum's brake arm comment - there's only one "brake" on the machine called the park brake. It's located on the side of your auto transmission - consisting of a external disc and caliper with pucks. When you push your clutch/brake foot pedal fully down, first the ground drive belt is disengaged ad then the little disc brake is activated. Sometimes, that little disc brake can get corroded/trashed up to where the disc brake will not release by itself...and prevents the transmission from operating smoothly. Find the brake and then make sure it is not sticking. ENGINE OFF AND BE CAREFUL UP UNDER THERE. You may have to take off the mower deck and have an assistant operate the clutch/brake pedal while you are observing the little disc brake mechanism itself for correct movement. If dirty/corroded, apply brake cleaner that comes in the aerosol spray can to get it clean and working. If the brake linkage needs adjusting, refer to the procedure for such in your manual. (BTW, that manual that mownie chased down for you is indeed bilingual - BUT contains a complete english version. Get a copy if you do not have one now.) There can be several root causes to the type of prob you have (and possibly some others caused by those "repairmen" from sears)... some simple things to check: 1) make sure that the tranny freewheel control rod is fully pushed in (not hung partially out). It's located on the back frame lower left. 2) If either/both of the rear wheels have been taken off recently, make sure that both axle hub keys are correctly assembled. Hope all this might help. Post back with results/comments.