That grass sure looks dead to me, which is an unfortunate waste of money and sod. Dormant grass is generally tan,yellow, or an off green color. Gray grass is generally dead. I suppose an extreme case of gray snow mold could make grass look like that, but if it pulls up very easily like in your pic, then it's probably dead. The fact that you can actually make out the edges makes me wonder when this sod was laid, and if it was ever healthy. While it may be 15 C (59 F) where you live, turfgrass is more responsive to soil temperatures. If your nights are freezing, then your soil may not be warm enough to end dormancy, but again, this doesn't look like dormant grass to me. Seed needs to be in contact with soil, not on top of dead grass. A power rake might be enough to break up the dead sod, but if it doesn't, you might have to remove it. The best time to seed a cool season grass is late summer/early fall. Grasses seeded at this time have ideal soil temps for germination, warm days and cool dry nights, no heat stress, and little weed and disease pressure. Spring seeded turf has lower soil temps, so germination takes longer, weed pressure, and stress from summer. Being in Canada however might mitigate some of these stresses, but you should wait till soil temps get to about 55 degrees minimum, 60 would be better. I would use Kentucky bluegrass for sunny areas and/or fine fescues for shady ones where you live. Tall fescue and perennial rye might have issues with cold kill, although I am not that familiar with your climate. Most mixes in big box stores contain perennial rye for quick germination, but often this means people don't water enough for the other grasses to germinate and establish, and the perennial rye becomes the dominant species.

Everything you read about watering 3x per day is very consistent. It has always been my standing suggestion, but I see dogwind's point. This late in the season you can probably get away with less water. You might go to once a day and see how the soil dries out. What you don't want is for the interface between the sod and soil to dry out. You can put corn meal down on the same day as the grass if you want. John Dromgoole's nursery has corn meal. Be sure you get corn meal and not corn gluten meal. He has both. CGM is just a lot more expensive and is not known for helping with fungal issues. Sorry I don't know his nursery's name but if you Google his name it will come up. Also use Google Maps to find feed stores near you. Then call them all to find out what they have. I apply corn meal by hand like I was feeding chickens. It does not go through a spreader very well. If I had an old plastic colander (thrift store??) with big enough holes I would use that to shake it out a little more evenly. I just did that with corn gluten meal a few minutes ago and it worked well. CGM is finer ground than corn meal and went through the colander very well. Mow when the grass is tall enough to mow. At this time of year it might not get tall enough to mow until April. You don't ever have to aerate the lawn. If you water correctly the soil will be very soft after you water and become very hard before you water again. In that sense it is just like a sponge (hard when dry and soft when wet). Your stump area will be a problem for at least 3 years. The ground up wood will suck up nitrogen causing the areas to be yellow. Furthermore the one you back filled with compost mix will settle for years requiring you to level it. You can add sand any time but only 1/4 inch at a time. Search the Internet for the "Organic Lawn Care FAQ." It is all over the place including here at the Organic Gardening forum FAQs. You will probably also find some books on organic lawn care. I don't like them. They are all based on the Rodale philosophy that compost is all you need. Not true. You need real food like pounds and pounds of corn, soy, wheat, cottonseed, used coffee grounds, etc. to feed the soil microbes. The minimum application rate for ground grains is 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. The max I've seen used without issue is 80 pounds per 1,000. Beyond that it starts to smell or smother the underlying grass. Organic lawn care should NOT smell bad. I fertilize on the federal holidays because I can remember them. With organics you can fertilize any day or every day. I picked those and fertilize relatively lightly from 10 to 15 pounds per 1,000. I know (crazy) people on other forums who fertilize up to 200 pounds per month. Their lawns look amazing. I start on Washington's Birthday, then Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you fertilize now, do it again on Thanksgiving. Being in Austin you are a little cooler so you could probably wait a week or so after Washington's birthday but why not just do it on the days that are easy to remember. Anything else? After you get off the initial watering plan, then water deeply but infrequently. I water for 3-5 hours all at one time. This time of year I water once every 2 or 3 weeks. In the hottest heat of summer I water once a week but I might water longer depending on the humidity, wind, shade, soil conditions, etc. Deep and infrequent watering is the single most important thing anyone can do for their lawn. Mowing high (for St Augustine) is the second most important. Fertilizing is the third.

Who laid your sod? All those seams from the sod should not be lined up and should have been laid in a brick pattern. It's not a huge mistake, but the reason you lay it in a brick pattern is to keep the sod pieces from shifting. I would not apply any weed n feed products or pre emergents until your sod has rooted together and you can no longer see the seams in the lawn. Once you start seeing the lawn green up start watering it to keep the soil underneath moist and then you can apply a starter fertilizer or a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10. You are better off spot spraying the weeds over using a weed n feed product. The weed n feed product don't usually work all that well and cost a lot more. Just be sure not to spray weeds when the temps are over 85F as it may harm your lawn. Once all the seams are gone you can start using the Scott's Turf Builder for the rest of the season. You want to apply 1 lb of Nitrogen every 4-6 weeks, this will help keep the grass healthy and choke out a lot of the weeds.

Alfalfa: Weak feed at around 2-1-2. 100% slow release. Contains some root growth hormones, but you really shouldn't overdo those (it seems to have far less negative impact on Bermuda). To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 50 pounds per thousand square feet. Milorganite: Moderate feed at 5-2-0. Contains up to 40% fast release nitrogen, at minimum 60% slow release. Also contains 4% iron for greening the lawn. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 20 pounds per thousand square feet. I know you didn't ask, but: Soybean meal/Cottonseed meal: Stronger feed at 7-1-2 or so. 100% slow release. No other effects. Tends to be the cheapest choice in terms of cost per pound of protein/nitrogen. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 15 pounds per thousand square feet. Corn meal/Cracked corn: Very weak feed at 1.7-0.7-0.5. Provides weak to moderate fungal protection. Excellent soil conditioner due to the ability to pour it on without it smelling much as it decays. Not generally used as a primary feeding. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 60 pounds per thousand square feet.