Who laid your sod? All those seams from the sod should not be lined up and should have been laid in a brick pattern. It's not a huge mistake, but the reason you lay it in a brick pattern is to keep the sod pieces from shifting. I would not apply any weed n feed products or pre emergents until your sod has rooted together and you can no longer see the seams in the lawn. Once you start seeing the lawn green up start watering it to keep the soil underneath moist and then you can apply a starter fertilizer or a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10. You are better off spot spraying the weeds over using a weed n feed product. The weed n feed product don't usually work all that well and cost a lot more. Just be sure not to spray weeds when the temps are over 85F as it may harm your lawn. Once all the seams are gone you can start using the Scott's Turf Builder for the rest of the season. You want to apply 1 lb of Nitrogen every 4-6 weeks, this will help keep the grass healthy and choke out a lot of the weeds.

Alfalfa: Weak feed at around 2-1-2. 100% slow release. Contains some root growth hormones, but you really shouldn't overdo those (it seems to have far less negative impact on Bermuda). To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 50 pounds per thousand square feet. Milorganite: Moderate feed at 5-2-0. Contains up to 40% fast release nitrogen, at minimum 60% slow release. Also contains 4% iron for greening the lawn. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 20 pounds per thousand square feet. I know you didn't ask, but: Soybean meal/Cottonseed meal: Stronger feed at 7-1-2 or so. 100% slow release. No other effects. Tends to be the cheapest choice in terms of cost per pound of protein/nitrogen. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 15 pounds per thousand square feet. Corn meal/Cracked corn: Very weak feed at 1.7-0.7-0.5. Provides weak to moderate fungal protection. Excellent soil conditioner due to the ability to pour it on without it smelling much as it decays. Not generally used as a primary feeding. To apply 1 pound of nitrogen equivalent requires 60 pounds per thousand square feet.

Barry I'm so glad you bumped this back up. Not sure how I missed it (repeatedly), but I disagree with much of what has been said. I don't mean to confuse you, but differing opinions usually do, so sorry in advance. St Aug should be very easy to grow in Houston. It will plow over under around and through any other grassy plants you might get including bermuda. All you have to do is mow it at the mower's highest setting every week or two. Currently it looks like you're mowing at the lowest setting. St Aug never needs to be mowed at anything lower than the highest setting. Some riding mowers will go up to 6 inches and some only go to 2-3 inches. If you're mowing at the mower's high setting now, you need a different mower. St Aug can grow up to 32 inches high and look fantastic (if you like the flowing wheat look). The taller it is the deeper the root system it gets and the (MUCH) better drought resistance you get. There is the occasional weed that will get into a thin spot, but usually you can spot spray those out with atrazine. How many thousand square feet do you have to mow? This looks below average for a new lawn, but when the lawn is so big, anything can happen. The big problem is mowing too low, but it does look like the sod went in with some bit of fungal disease. The 3rd to last picture shows some fungal lesions. I have been using ordinary corn meal to take care of fungal disease in St Aug for the past 13 years. It works for me every time. The application rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. I get it at the local feed store. It takes 3 weeks to see an improvement, but since you've already applied a chemical fungicide, corn meal won't work. Chinch bugs? You absolutely cannot see them from a photo. However, you can wipe your hand across the surface then they will flick up in the air. Put a piece of paper down and see if you can flick them up on it. There are some good YouTube videos showing how to do that. They hit the hottest part of the soil first, so that's usually next to asphalt or concrete. Then almost never begin in the middle of the yard unless you have watering issues. The first place to check would be in your last photo. And just because you might have one insect pest does not automatically make you a candidate for the full catalog of insects. And don't apply insecticide because you see bugs. Insects are not only normal, they're required for healthy soil and turf. You do have watering issues. I assume for such a large lot you have a system in the ground. It needs to be tuned up, because it is missing spots. Place some tuna or cat food cans around in the dry spots and in the green spots. Then time how long it takes to fill the cans. Some high flow systems can fill them in 20 minutes, so keep an eye on them. But some of your cans are going to be pretty dry for a long time. Eventually you want them all to fill at about the same time. Then use the time it takes to fill them as your new watering time for every zone. That's 1 inch of water. The idea is to apply a full inch all at one time. Then wait until the grass is ready for the next drink. Generally speaking when the temps are in the 90s, water once per week. With temps in the 80s water once every 2 weeks, temps in the 70s water every 3 weeks, and once a month the rest of the year. This also promotes deep roots. You don't have clay soil. You might not have perfect soil, but clay is not the issue. Usually the problem is a salt imbalance that causes soil to act like clay. Even sand can act like clay. If you really want to know all about your soil, send a sample to Logan Labs (not TAMU). For $25 they will send you a detailed report. Post that report here and morpheuspa will read it for you telling you what you need to apply, where to find it, how much, when, and how. That's another $200 value for free. Fertilize in May, late September, and again in late November. Don't try to jump the gun in the spring. If you want info on organic lawn care, let me know. I think you should, but not everyone agrees. If you go to a full chemical program, then I would suggest at least once a year to use an organic fertilizer (ordinary corn meal, again) to keep your soil biology happy. So in the long run, taking care of St Aug is easy. You water it depending on the temperature, mow at the highest setting, and fertilize 3x per year. If you do these simple things, you should never need herbicide, insecticide, or fungicide. If you see weeds in the early spring, don't use a weed-n-feed. Use a herbicide with atrazine. Read the label 2x and follow the directions carefully. Photo tip: Take garden pictures on a cloudy day to minimize contrast between bright and shadow.

Depends on who is doing the accepting. The EPA exceptional quality rating is advertised as a good thing by milorganite. For me, its a bit of a hypothesis I cannot disprove at this time, or hopefully ever. And its about money, so being a man of modern times I have to ask what the EPA is missing. I need to understand more about natural metals I guess. One way I do that is place the behavior of these resellers of waste into a broad context and see if the behavior they exhibit seems odd. In this case of the 72 page report, some ferts most definitely have high numbers. But when filtered, Zinc amendments having high levels of zinc is, well, what did you expect? Plants have grown into existence using metals. Red clay is red because of Iron and Oxygen. The real inclusive question that I have not yet answered for myself is what exposure does nature give me here, and how do these levels compare a fertilizer at say .5 lb-2 lb/ 1000sf / year, and include accumulation in the answer. I got kinda excited and a little freaked when I realized a pathway exists to reroute commercial wastes into fertilizers as carriers and so forth; It is a great idea socially but for adults only. I personally cannot stomach the writings of extremist California thinkers like Mike Schaffer who wave the purity flag for political money and have a all or nothing approach to toxicity. I read that often, as you ask, toxicity is a simple matter of quantity. Finding reasonable published academic sources that do not have to use parenthesis to explain their own words has been my muse lately. I would rather read Bryant Redhawk. I would even propose that trace metals needed by plant and other life are perhaps like a flu shot where a little bit innoculates? Thats a different view. But millenia ago who knows what plants had to do to adapt. I am still learning about your question.