Jon, I've had the opposite results here in the east. I've found that small, well rooted airlayered plants will establish themselves quicker than older, root bound plants which will often languish for years before kicking in. This may seem odd at first, but I believe it lies in large part to the root mass of the older potted fig. The root mass is tangled, crowded, and chokes on itself. The younger plant is still very vigorous and will send its roots out away from the center to establish a healthier plant. You might want to increase the root ratio over the aerial parts in your airlayering to see if this will help. A thick mulch will also help with the moisture in drier climates.

Not with pear, but with a Japanese Maple, I've had success wrapping bonsai wire around the branch I want to layer and twisting it tight enough to restrict the flow of sap. You just tighten until you see the wire start to "bite" into the bark - don't crush the bark/branch. If there are enough branches to try layering, this technique might be worth testing.

Thanks so much for your input countrygirl! Yes, someone on the other forum did suggest that too, and I'm just wondering if it is safe, since I assume the new roots could freeze above ground like that?

Thanks Dan, for the response. Knowing that most air layers fail after being severed due to their fragile nature on their new roots, I was thinking that dormancy might be the perfect time to remove them and pot them up... if it is actually possible. The real conundrum is this: If I remove and pot up now, at least I will have 6 or 8 weeks of growing time before leaf fall. If I wait, I will be potting them up right before leaf fall, so no time for roots to strengthen. Unless I bring them indoors, which means they will have to skip dormancy, which might not be good for them either (I'll have to see what kind of chilling requirement it has). Do you see all the crazy winter related stuff you don't have to worry about in the Bahamas? I'm hoping some others will chime in... Tony perhaps?