There are two discussions going on. The discussion to answer the literal question about big trees, and the discussion to answer the real question about privacy. They are very different questions. Dealing with the privacy question, what are the moundy green things in this picture? And who do they belong to? My guess is they are white pines belonging to the neighbor. In other words, the neighbor has already planted a native evergreen capable of getting to 100 ft, and doing it extremely quickly. Any other potentially large tree is going to compete with that tree line and slow both of them down. This privacy issue would benefit most from Calliope's solution. A small tree or large shrub planted directly between the neighbor's house and the window would provide privacy without closing in the whole area. Even during the winter, densely branching deciduous shrubs can work. The front yard is going to be the trickiest one. Planting a wall of big evergreens is just going to be like building a big wall. A better idea would be planting something that was large enough to block the lower houses, but short enough to still allow views of the hills across the valley. Unfortunately, spring is the busy season for landscapers and landscape designers. People have been arranging for their services all winter, and now is the time for them to start to deliver.

anntn6b, thanks. I rather thought you might be. That's wonderful but a big responsibility to manage all that property. I wondered how it affected agricultural crops, principally corn, soybeans and hay for those with animals. On our farms we have I guess it's a sharecropping arrangement, and it is principally corn and soybeans. I wondered how the JB's affect these farmers. Sweet corn is one thing, but if they only eat the tassels on field corn, probably not a problem because they now buy new seed every year, shell the corn and store until it's time to sell. And I'd rather it not be GM but it is. I'm having trouble figuring if tassels are all they eat, why it is such a problem other that market appeal. Plus I'm old fashioned and much prefer the all-yellow sweet corn, and I couldn't find any last time I was at the farmer's market or roadside stands. Everybody likes that salt and pepper better because it's sweeter. I eat it, but the only way I can get yellow corn is at the store which I seldom do because it isn't fresh. I was told farmers can use field corn for eating off the cob when it is still very young, then it gets too tough. So you lured all his beetles to your property. At least you can place your traps right. Glad your efforts are paying off. Tonight I got the bags ready for the garbage and put the other parts in the garage because it is supposed to rain, I tape the holes, and my roofs haven't been tested yet. I will put fresh bags on in the morning and put them back out. I added a weapon to my arsenal. A very bad one for midday when clusters are getting away. Methinks you would not approve. I'll use it if I have to, but will continue picking and dunking. I'm hoping they will start to phase down and the worst is over but I'm too new at this. At least if I had done my dream and lived on one of our farms, I could place the traps more strategically; I'm so new to all this. I SHOULD be spraying for BS and bought a pump sprayer to use with Orthonex. I can't figure out how to put it together. My son said he would help. You wouldn't approve of that either I'd wager. I can't find the receipt to take it back or might have today. If you have a lot of roses, I'm guessing you don't hand pick the bugs. Maybe it works so well for you now you don't need to. I have to and am fed up with the whole business. Only two this evening, one on a rose bloom and one on a yellow coreopsis. Just when I think . . . .and me the purist who never wanted to spray with dangerous chemicals. I sure appreciate your sharing your storehouse of knowledge with us, a real eye-opener about a lot of things.

Well Resin with all due respect, other than your rare 1987 superstorms, storms are generally more severe here. Between the hurricanes, heavy snowstorms, and thunderstorm squall lines. I can't tell you how many times I've driven around the suburbs of DC, Baltimore or the Delaware Valley and seen a row of leylandiis with one plant upturned or one with a snapped trunk, whether that trunk was already bifurcated or not. Just in my yard in the past few years, I've had several hardwoods downed completely, several large hardwood branches, an entire Juniperus virginiana top blown off, etc. I have a little over a hectare (see I'm using metric for you!) but over 1/2 of the perimeter is unmaintained, primary-succession "trash" forests. That means short to medium lived trees like maples and ashes. (As is so often the case in the northeast of the country, this was abandoned farm land, I've seen old aerial photos showing nothing but farm field where now there are woods. Millions of acres of New England reverted to forest and this was the case even as far south as the Elk Neck Peninsula right near me) In fact now after 60 or so years of primary, the secondary species are coming in, like beeches and tulip poplars. This post was edited by davidrt28 on Mon, Aug 11, 14 at 21:49

I have a yard very similar to yours. I can't plant in the middle of my yard, because it is the septic field. My yard is flat though. Some thoughts. In a temperate climate, where you get snow, ice and rain, I really dislike plantings around the house. I inherited a whole slew of shrubs and perennials, etc. planted WAY too close to the house. Now they hold moisture against the house and are home to all kinds of pests that try to get into my house, like mice, ants, spiders, etc. and even once a chipmunk. Plus now they are starting to block the windows and my house is dark enough inside already! Second thought is not every hill needs a retaining wall. They are expensive and need to be built correctly in order not too collapse over time. I'm not saying don't invest in one, but not absolutely necessary. Same with removing the stumps. Natural landscaping would not worry too much about them. Plus I'm just cheap and lazy so whatever I do, I would want to get the most bang for my time and buck. You could plant up that hill fine and cover with mulch and groundcover too. Could be a spot for a rock garden, if that floats your boat. Unless you're craving a retaining wall. I'm not saying one or the other is better, just depends on what you want to invest in. For a natural landscape, I'd start down at the island, like Bellburgmaggie did. You've got the tree background, now expand with some low flowering shrubs on the edge, and some pretty shade tolerant herbaceous plants. Now, along the front of the house, what do you want? Grassland perennial gardens look kinda drab in the winter, so good to mix in some evergreens and plants that have interesting bark, form or seedheads. Things like sedum, redtwig dogwood, paperbark maple, etc. You might Google Piet Oudolf or get one of his books, etc. for some inspiration. I was first turned on to him from a post on here. I will say however, his designs demand a fair amount of knowledge, skill and sophistication to pull off. 10 Garden Ideas to Steal from Piet Oudolf I've also worked in areas with seeded meadows and I have created tiny meadow islands. Not to everyone's taste. Some folks think it looks "messy." I'm not that house proud, but that could be a factor in your design decisions too. The one I created was in concert with the seed folks at Prairie Moon Nursery. Detailed instructions on the Web page I linked to. We created a seed mix that was specific to our location. Ya gotta get rid of the plants growing there. Easy peasy to burn but also requires preparation and skill and permits. Can use tilling and super-duper Roundup and wait until it dissipates to plant the seed mix. Mow at the right time to maintain. Weed as needed. Our meadow was right in front of our visitors center, very small but was bounded by a path, so that made it easier to focus maintenance efforts. Also, if you're going to feature a small tree, (like serviceberry, for example), place that first and plan to have undergrowth around it that can take the shade it will cast.