Sorry to hear that your mama passed away. I can understand why the plants mean a lot to you. The good news is that I do think these plants can be saved. They don't look like they are imminently going to die. A couple of questions that might help to better figure out how to improve them: Do you let the water drain out of the pots when you water them? How much light do they get? Are they near a window? Which way does the window face? This post was edited by summersunshine on Mon, Mar 31, 14 at 1:07

Toni gave you some excellent advice!I think she has one that's also as old as mine.16-17 yrs right Toni? Most plants like to be snug in their pots with an inch to spare between the root-ball and inside of the pot, that way, it's not over-potted with unused excess soil that can stay too wet, or not get enough water to all the roots causing many problems. If your plant was in a 6" (what you said in first post) or an 8" pot, moving it to a 12" pot is way too big. Go up just one size larger and only when you absolutely need to, like if the pot is (root-bound) Pot being more full of roots than soil and can no longer hold water, instead, water runs straight through and plant wilts again in matter of just a couple days. If your peace lily will fit back into the 6" or 8" which ever has an inch to spare, I'd move it back and get rid of any of extra soil and add a handful or so of Perlite (siliceous volcanic rock) so there is an almost even distribution. Don't feed! Plants that are not doing well should NOT be fertilized at all, only healthy growing ones will benefit and even then it should be used sparingly and half or less strength of what the directions say. A bag of "Perlite" can be found at places like Walmart, Lowe's, or Home Depot, most places that sell bagged houseplant soil. It helps with drainage because many bag soils are heavy and can smother the roots. Perlite will make it more airy. Peace lilies like semi moist soil, so when the top inch starts to feel "almost" dry, it's time to water. Water it thoroughly all around the top of the soil until it comes out the bottom. Spill out any excess in the saucer afterwords so the pots not sitting in water keeping the soil soggy wet for a week. Keep it indoors if you were putting it outside before. Give it bright 'indirect" light and/or dapple sun but not direct hot afternoon sun or the leaves will wilt and burn. You can also grow this plant in just plain water. Billy Rae

"Alternatively, buy them live in pots in spring. This would be my recommendation for someone just getting started with lilies. Here in the colder zones, lily bulbs available in stores in the spring are often leftovers from the last season. I don't do mail order, so I can't speak for what you might get in ordering any time of the year. Here, fresh lily bulbs will become available in the fall for fall planting and for bloom the next season. If I were just getting started with lilies, I'd buy a potted, budded plant or two from any of the seasonal garden centers - even the big boxes - and dig a 6" hole where the soil drains well and carefully transplant it. No big investment and you get to watch how it blooms and behaves once blooming is over. Although I have ideal lily conditions, I've had the best continuing success with the Asiatics. They're simple, good multipliers, come in a range of colors with and without spots - just not as elegant as the Orientals. For me and just my personal experience, the Orientals and fancier lilies have done well for a year or two, then produce fewer and fewer flowers, and finally disappear altogether.

i have 30 lillypillies that i want to form a hedge around the garden - they are 3 1/2 foot tall - and quite sparce - i want them to grow about 6 foot tall in a dence hedge. I understand the concept of pinching off the new growth - should i do this now or wait till they get more hight? (currently they are quite bare down the bottom and a bit bushier at the top) - thankyou for your advise ( someone told me to allow them to grown 6 foot prior to starting to prune them....