jridh...this is why spray foam has sheetrock between it and the living space. and yes, burning foam produces a gas as it burns. thus the need for fire rated sheetrock. OP putting the foam sheating on the exterior is the best investment for foam for walls. proper nailing pattern, seams taped and any holes sealed prior to cladding install. the foam sheating can go on top of housewrap, and if you chose foil/foam board and have brick cladding..you get a radiant barrier for exterior of walls with 3/4' air space between brick & foil. air sealing doesn't just happen. even with sheetrock & plywood sheating,,,air will find its way in through any small gap & hole. to air seal you have to caulk areas like sole plates to slabs & subfloors, seal wire & plumbing penetrations and any holes into the house from both attic and ambinet. however...if builder has limited time for foam in walls or conventional..it is doubtful that he will be on board with adding foam sheathing to extrior walls. when you add to depth of walls...window and door framing/finishing changes. this is why I didn't recommend this, for your situation. itrw...the builder isn't going to spend time to make this happen properly. the last thing you need is improperly flashed windows & doors due to last minute add on of foam sheathing. usually people who use sheathing on exterior of walls go into framing with this in mind..not an add on later. although ithis is the best use of $$ for added insulation & air sealing qualities. of walls. it iis in the planning stages that foam sheathing is discussed...not once walls are ready for insulation. as your doors & windows are in place & flashed...I don't think it will reasonably happen now. what people need to think about is...the sun hits one wall at a time. but it hits the roof all day...every day. this is a better place to put the foam. if you have hvac equipment..ductwork, in attic and holes in the sheetrock ceiling..recessed lights oversized cuts for supply vents & bath fans...it is difficult to get these areas sealed properly. great stuff in a can is oten used..but it doesn't seal as well as people think..nor does it last. other things like kneewalls in the attic..changes of ceiling heights are also problematic. while they are usually insulated..they are not air sealed and allow attic temps to enter the house. over the years we have used the same foil/foam sheating to air seal knee walls & upstairs walls shared with attics to stop the air movement & temp gain. it is a tough install, thus another reason that the foamed roofline is so popular. this install will cover all of the builder/trades errors, allowing easier & affordable utility costs & smaller sized hvac systems. this late in the game...stick with air sealing walls insulate conventionally & insist upon air tight drywall aproach through out the house. and easy way to get it done is for sheetrock installers to install as if no moldings were being used. this will make sure that sheetrock is taped & floated behind ceiling moldings. closing leakage from attic into the house that is otherwise hidden behind crown moldings. google air tight drywall approach (ada) to better understand why this is an important part of the performance of your walls. best of luck.

Yes, it's a "conditioned attic", which is why the soffit penetrations (above top-plates) have been foamed shut. They're actually backed with with some of the original fiberglass batting to give the outside surface of the foam something to cure against. I'm in CL3, so recommended ceiling R-value is 30 or 38 depending on which version of the IECC specs you use. Unfortunately, I fell pray to the "foam performs better than permeable insulation, so even 3-4 inches performs better than the most of your neighbors" argument, so strictly speaking, the R-value requirements were likely not met. In fairness, I probably have around R-25 once all is said and done and any inefficiencies are accounted for. I'd love to go back 6 months and pay a little more for the extra pass (1-2 inches) to bring it up to the rafter surface and all the rafters, but I didn't. Thankfully, the argument that the biggest benefit is the near perfect air sealing is still true and I will get the lion's share of the benefits even if it's slightly below the recommended thickness. If I ever have my other roof elevation sprayed (over the garage, still a "vented attic"), then I may have the contractor "skim" another inch on top of the existing job. The cost of getting them out there to set up the job is most of the cost. $/foot goes down somewhat as the job gets bigger, so it'll only make financial sense to add foam if there's other work being done. Thanks for all the comments! Dan

No such machine was used... They poured the entire garage at once which lasted from 8:15am-8:45am.. From that point until 1pm they were working the concrete by hand.. This is a quick shot of what they were doing: I just really can't believe that this company would allow this.. They are a higher end company and they do most of their work in high end neighborhoods.. I am actually getting a little concerned that its not even.. I went over while at work to take a quick pic but got their late and it was already dark.. I left the headlights of my car on and took a pic.. I can't tell if its the lighting combined with the trowel marks, but it almost looks like ripples.. This is what it looks like: At this point I don't know what to even do.. I feel like every time they get to the next stage I have to question what my options are because it wasn't done right.. I know I am not building a mansion or some multi million dollar home, but I just feel like I probably could have done a better job myself and I have absolutely no experience.. I know it's easy to second guess people, but I feel like this is not an acceptable finish.. I talked with a few people and they said there is no real way to "repair" this.. They would have to hammer it all out and pour again.. I had contemplated doing an epoxy finish but I don't even know if that would solve this.. Im sure it would help the finish look, but if this floor is in fact not level I am not sure an epoxy coating will level it out.. I am nervous to even go down to the basement.. I only saw a small portion from the upper level (no stairs installed yet) and everything was covered.. I can only assume the basement slab looks the same..

I appreciate it and got a laugh out of a couple of the jokes here! we have been running a small window AC which has done great removing any moisture and controlling the temp. I know this isn't ideal to everyone but it works for us. windows open at night, closed during the day. air is never stale and it's dry. I think the highest humidity that we've seen inside w a tester is 42%. I completely understand some of the comments in here for applications that are more than what this building is suppose to be and I'm not discounting them, but I'm also realistic about what this building is and the utility it's meant to provide. I had a friend come over with w thermal imager this weekend and we were able to measure temps on the walls and roof with the sun hitting it. most of the building showed no or negligible heat increases, but we found that the absolute ridge/peak had issues. it was a difficult area to spray and it appears the installer did a poor job and we will need to circle back with them. the vast majority of the roof was consistent with temps, but the ridge had so spots reading 20-30 degrees warmer than the inside air while we found a couple other spots that were 10-15 degrees warmer. we will figure out how to proceed soon with them. the walls probably don't need additional Batts with the readings we got, but we may still just install them for additional sound deading and just in case we pursue use during late fall. I want to make clear I'm not ignoring advice to speak to local resources, but the simple fact is this is a very small town and the local "experts" give advice such as what this code officer gave me, or the complete other extreme where someone told me we needed! to entirely fill a ceiling cavity 4' thick with insulation to prevent us from hearing rain. contractors in this area see/hear lake property and their eyes go $$$$$ and it turns into how can we make out best on these people. for instance, installation of 8 steel fence posts (with and air hammer), just the fence posts and no fencing was 1200 from the lowest quote. it's been a constant battle bc everyone assumes owners are very well off financially which just isn't always the case. so to my original point, finding reasonable and consistent advice and insight locally has been almost impossible. also regarding the rodents, I know foam is not a miracle cure, but we have battled rodent issues for 6 years prior to this building, as have ALL our neighbors, but since this building went up and was sprayed 16 months ago we haven't had a single issue. I found one pinhole in the foam that a couple ants came through and took care of it. I know things can change but we really tried to have this building animal tight and so far not a single issue. again, thanks for the conversation and feedback guys