I know this may not be practical for most, but here is what I did for snails: My property use to be very heavily infested with snails. Huge snails. They took a toll on some of the plants. Two years ago here in San Diego, we had fairly frequent and spaced out light showers. I live on a cul-de-sac and own the two empty lots next door. I also live on a hillside. Consequently, I have a lot of succulent groundcover. Everytime it sprinkled, the snails would come out, so I'd just go out and pick 'em and smash them in the middle of the street. I did this for about three months--everytime it rained or sprinkled. The street looked pretty yucky. Well, that was two years ago and now I ALMOST NEVER see a snail. Once in a blue moon I'll see a small one and I'll pick it, but that's about it. -Ron-

Al......of course I do not recognize and would have no reason to care to much about earned titles. I have seen and been with the best and the worse Master Gardeners. If you name a hundred of any like title I would be able to say the same thing about them. I am a ROADS SCHOLLAR. I love to talk one or two on one standing knee deep in poison ivy. Going down the roads I still play "How To Tapes" on the way many times to meet someone else who will either teach me something or learn something for the time envested. We have been "HOW TO" teachers owning a school to teach true Antique Doll Restoration. We have done the whole national media trip. I personally still like it best knee deep in poison ivy to make a point. Now my wheels of life are starting down the last road. I may be able to enjoy the helping part of this site for some years. My hands no longer fit the hoe handle. I was one of the first in the country to begin using aerobic compost tea from proven tested base materials. For at least ten years now I have a standing offer to anyone and specifically the County Agents office and the Master Gardeners. It goes like this. The learning is relatively simple. I will give you hands on training in my back yard one on one or class you set up for your friends free. It will take one evening and one three hour following evening attendance with camera and note books. Coffee will be provided. To date no County Office interest, no Master Gardener Interest, no local garden club interest. Now is not that a pretty good status of the day report? On the subject of the Worst Master Gardeners meaning ones who may not have been in the "A Row" in class. My opinion is that just presenting a slide show with very simple subject matter looks good to entry level gardeners. The Master Gardeners courses that I have attended were not open to discussion or question. All materials originated at Penn State University. It was in one of those courses I learned that Comfrey was a horrible weed and should not be used. My Comfrey is grown in a K-Mart huge plastic containment planter. Makes enough for a whole year of Comfrey Tea on my property. I would offer that knowledge as a bonus to anyone interested in what has been happening here for over thirty five years. We are 98% organic here. We lie about the other 2% Our patch is now down to patio pots. They are in keeping with my opening statement in this paragraph.

Insecticidal soaps can be one effective insect pest control if real soaps, those made with fats, are used and not detergents. Some few soaps still have fats reacted with lye and these disolve the target insects exoskeleton so they dehydrate. Castile soaps are made from vegetable fats not animal fats. All you need is about 1 percent soap in solution, more is no more effective and may harm the plants, and that works to about 1 teaspoon of the soap mixed into 1 quart water. Nothing more is necessary and certainly not alcohol. The single best control for aphids is a sharp water spray to knock the wee buggers off the plant.

Insect Control: Soaps and Detergents by W.S. Cranshaw 1 Quick Facts... Soaps can be used to control a wide range of plant pests. Small, soft-bodied arthropods such as aphids, mealybugs, psyllids and spider mites are most susceptible to soaps. The ease of use, safety and selective action of soaps appeal to many people. Limitations of soaps include the need to wet the insect during application, absence of any residual effectiveness, and potential to damage some plants. Soaps or detergents used for control of insects are applied as dilute sprays, mixed with water to produce a concentration of about 2 percent. Soaps have been used to control insects for more than 200 years. Recently, there has been increased interest in and use of these products. This change is due to a better understanding of how to use soaps most effectively and a desire to try insecticides that are easier and safer to use than many currently available alternatives. How soaps and detergents kill insects is still poorly understood. In most cases, control results from disruption of the cell membranes of the insect. Soaps and detergents may also remove the protective waxes that cover the insect, causing death through excess loss of water. Soap-Detergent Sprays Soaps and detergents act strictly as contact insecticides, with no residual effect. To be effective, sprays must be applied directly to and thoroughly cover the insect. Several insecticidal soaps are distributed for control of insects and mites. Available under a variety of trade names, the active ingredient of all is potassium salt of fatty acids. Soaps are chemically similar to liquid hand soaps. However, there are many features of commercial insecticidal soap products that distinguish them from the dishwashing liquids or soaps that are sometimes substituted. Insecticidal soaps sold for control of insects: are selected to control insects; are selected to minimize potential plant injury; and are of consistent manufacture. Some household soaps and detergents also make effective insecticides. In particular, certain brands of hand soaps and liquid dishwashing detergents can be effective for this purpose. They are also substantially less expensive. However, there is increased risk of plant injury with these products. They are not designed for use on plants. Dry dish soaps and all clothes-washing detergents are too harsh to be used on plants. Also, many soaps and detergents are poor insecticides. Identifying safe and effective soap-detergent combinations for insect control requires experimentation. Regardless of what product is used, soap-detergent sprays are always applied diluted with water, typically at a concentration of around 2 to 3 percent (Table 1). Susceptible Insects Most research with insecticidal soaps and detergents has involved control of plant pests. In general, these sprays are effective against most small, soft-bodied arthropods, such as aphids, young scales, whiteflies, psyllids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Larger insects, such as caterpillars, sawflies and beetle larvae, generally are immune to soap sprays. However, a few large insects, including boxelder bugs and Japanese beetles, are susceptible. Insecticidal soaps are considered selective insecticides because of their minimal adverse effects on other organisms. Lady beetles, green lacewings, pollinating bees and most other beneficial insects are not very susceptible to soap sprays. Predatory mites, often important in control of spider mites, are an exception: a beneficial group of organisms easily killed by soaps. Application One of the most serious potential drawbacks to the use of soap-detergent sprays is their potential to cause plant injury -- their phytotoxicity. Certain plants are sensitive to these sprays and may be seriously injured. For example, most commercial insecticidal soaps list plants such as hawthorn, sweet pea, cherries and plum as being sensitive to soaps. Portulaca and certain tomato varieties also are sometimes damaged by insecticidal soaps. The risk of plant damage is greater with homemade preparations of household soaps or detergents. When in doubt, test soap-detergent sprays for phytotoxicity problems on a small area a day or two before an extensive area is treated. Plant injury can be reduced by using sprays that are diluted more than the 2 to 3 percent suggested on label instructions. To reduce leaf injury, wash plants within a couple of hours after the application. Limiting the number of soap applications can also be important, as leaf damage can accumulate with repeated exposure. However, because of the short residual action, repeat applications may be needed at relatively short intervals (four to seven days) to control certain pests, such as spider mites and scale crawlers. Also, application must be thorough and completely wet the pest. This usually means spraying undersides of leaves and other protected sites. Insects that cannot be completely wetted, such as aphids within curled leaves, will not be controlled. Environmental factors also can affect use of soaps. In particular, soaps (but not synthetic detergents) are affected by the presence of minerals found in hard water, which results in chemical changes producing insoluble soaps (soap scum). Control decreases if hard-water sources are used. Insecticidal soaps may also be more effective if drying is not overly rapid, such as early or late in the day. Soaps and detergents can offer a relatively safe and easy means to control many insect pests. As with all pesticides, however, there are limitations and hazards associated with their use. Understand these limitations, and carefully follow all label instructions. Table 1: Approximate mix to produce various dilute soap sprays. Percent dilution desired Approximate amount of soap to add to water to produce: Gallon Quart Pint 1 2 1/2 Tbsp (-) 2 tsp (+) 1 tsp (+) 2 5 Tbsp (-) 4 tsp (+) 2 tsp (+) 3 8 Tbsp (+) 2 Tbsp (+) 1 Tbsp (+) 4 10 Tbsp (-) 2 1/2 Tbsp (+) 4 tsp (+) (+) Will produce a solution of slightly higher concentration than indicated. (-) Will produce a solution of slightly lower concentration than indicated. 1Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management. 12/96. Reviewed 3/08. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating. CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned. Go to top of this page. Updated Friday, August 03, 2012