Oh dear... just fell in love with this today at Pirch... interested to hear what others have to say...

I love the steam oven's capabilities but I suspect since the plumbed version is a new production introduction for Miele, that they are still working out technical bugs. We bought all Miele appliances for our kitchen renovation last summer: induction cooktop + downdraft, 36' fridge/freezer, dishwasher, convection oven and steam oven. The steam oven has been a total headache (all other appliances have been fine). We've had service people in our house for months dealing with it. The first unit failed out of the box - a fault error came when I turned it on and tried to use the steam. They wanted to repair it but I requested a new oven since I didn't want a serviced unit out of the box. They did replace that oven but the replacement oven had the SAME fault error. I'm convinced they had a manufacturing defect (maybe they've fixed it since?) because they told me how "rare" it is for two units to fail with the same error. I'm on our 3rd unit now and it works but I'm still having issues getting the steam to start in certain functions. I haven't asked for a replacement because I had such issues the first two times. Not to mention when the service guys came out, they damaged our cabinets and plumbing. What a nightmare. If anyone else has purchased one of these units, please let me know. I've requested to speak with the product manager at corporate in charge of this line, but they keep telling me they can't give me that information. I've been extremely disappointed that after paying so much for high-end appliances to have such a negative experience with one of the products. I'm not a happy customer at this point.

What error number did you have xtinadk? Miele plumbed unit has been in the market for a number of years, at least in Europe and Australia.

Has anyone ever checked the voltage on your home? These units are pretty sensitive to voltage and are designed for full 240v usage. Not saying it's the issue but just a thought. I have sold quite a few of the plumbed ones and never seen much in the way of issues. The non plumbed is the same machine and that's also been pretty problem free. Also as a previous user said, the US market gets miele product about 2 years after they come to market in Europe and a few other markets. So problems are pretty rare.

Yes to both of these. I was getting an F10 fault both times. First thing we did when the first unit faulted was to check the voltage with the electrician. It was at 246v so more than enough power. I'm not getting an F10 fault with the 3rd unit, but I've noticed that it doesn't steam properly if I started in Convection Bake mode and then switch to steam. The service line told me it should start steaming after 2 minutes but it takes up to 15 minutes to begin steaming.

I haven't even mentioned all the issues we had getting the trim kit installed properly. It should be something so simple but all of the technicians struggled with it. I can post pictures of how crooked they installed it and thought it was okay.

Thank for the info. It is interesting with F10 being a serious error. In the manual, F10 is shown as suction hose in the reservoir not being attached correctly. I get this F10 prompted on me every now and then, and taking the reservoir out cleaning it, and put it back make it goes away. However, F10 is also indicating that water does not get sucked into the boiler after the reservoir is filled via the plumbed line.

Could you elaborate more about steaming with the third unit? Was it switching from conviction bake mode to steam mode manually, or in a user program? At what temperature it is attempting to switching the mode? Or was it switching from convection bake mode to combi convection bake mode with steam?

I often bake a bread and preheat it in normal bake mode, then I start a program which starts with combi bake (top and bottom elements) with 100% humidity. Steam usually comes out within a minute or two.

First thing I did with the first unit was check the hose too but it
was fine. I also did a descaling as per the recommendations from the
service team. However, when the tech came, he said it was a thermostat
issue. When I got the F10 with the 2nd unit, they didn't even tell me
what they thought the problem was, they just took the unit back. With this third unit. I am switching manually from convection bake to steam. They told me it should start in 2 minutes too. But it's taken up to 15 minutes to start the steam. It eventually starts but takes forever.

It sounds very unusual to get two ovens in a row with same fault. My first one was DOA. From what I observed on-screen, it was most likely software for 6800 was enabled for 6805 hardware. It was asking me to fill in water, and put in condensate container despite being a plumb-in unit. The replacement unit has been working hard (being the only oven in my kitchen) and working well so far. It is almost a year old already.

At what temperature the the oven was at when switching mode from convection bake to steam? If it is above 212˚F, it has to cool itself down before, and could take a while with door closed. From observation, it wants to cool down at least 3˚C (~5˚F) below set point before starting steam mode.

It is the same, for the rest of all combi mode that the oven temp has to be below set point before the oven would want to operate. It will ask user to open the door to cool down. For convection bake, bake, and broil, however, new temperature can be higher or lower, and the oven will operate with door closed.

Yes, good point. To clarify, when I mentioned that it takes a long time for the steam to start this is AFTER the oven has already cooled down to 212 degrees and has "started" in steam mode. Like I said, I haven't had a tech come out to look at it yet because I had major problems with our last visits but it is very frustrating. Thank you for all your feedback.

mine has never drained properly. Miele insists on repairs rather than replacement even though there have been 5 repair attempts with new parts each time. And yes, my new cabinets have also been damaged. My time has been wasted. And we're going on a second Thanksgiving where I can't use this oven. Super frustrating!

This is an old thread but can you people tell me how things resolved with the Miele steam oven. I just ordered the plumbed XL unit but seeing this thread is making me think twice. What kind of drain needs to be installed and where. I have the installation book but there is no information on drains and where/type of water line to get to this thing. I'm hoping I can hear back from someone on this soon.

Mcdb, have you tried calling Miele service or the appliance store where you purchased it? I haven't ordered my unit yet but I would hope for better communication or directives on such an important issue .

> I have the installation book but there is no information on drains and
where/type of water line to get to this thing. I'm hoping I can hear
back from someone on this soon.

Look for the specification booklet for your model (although the water and drainage requirements are all of the plumbed CSO models), give it to a plumber, builder or general contractor, or point them to Miele's US website. They will know how to interpret and what to do.

Here's a spec sheet see for a model 6805-1 XL:https://us.mieleusa.com/MieleMedia/docs/products/specs/pdf/dg/PureLine%20DGC%206805-1%20XL_Spec_FINAL.pdf

Cross-posted https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5851297/fault-20-on-miele-combination-steam-oven-dgc-6800-xl-cross-posted

We bought a Miele DGC 6800 Combination Steam Oven (non-plumbed) and a few months later on a whim descaled the unit. Right after the descaling process, my Miele steam oven gives me a 'Fault 20' whenever I try to do steam cooking. The regular convection cooking works fine. How do I fix this? Thanks!

It's out of warranty even though we probably used it about 20 times. Now Miele is asking for $150 for a technician to come out and pay an additional $90/hr for labor + $ for parts!

On a related note, I read through a different thread where somebody had published instructions to reset the unit in order to resolve a different issue, by entering the programming/ service mode used by technicians. However, I was not able to replicate the process which basically requires 1. Press and hold the timer button (the bell picture), and whilst doing that press and hold the power button. Then let go of both at the same time. 2. Then press the timer button 5 more times, but on the fifth time hold for a few seconds. 3. Once in Programming mode play with the options to reset and restart descaling.

May be that was my post. My tips would be to take the notice of the sound "tick" "tick" when generally the button is pressed, when trying to enter the service mode the pitch is a little lower. So:

1. Press the timer button and hold it, and as soon as the thumb/finger touch's the timer button, also press the power button and hold both buttons together. At this point the lower pitch "tick" sound should come out. Hold the button for 1-2 second.
2. Release both button, and press timer button 3 or 5 more times, depending on the service program. On the last press, hold for a few seconds. At each press a lower pitch "tick" sound should come out.
3. Wish for luck.

If you cross-post, can you please also post a link to the one location that you want the discussion to happen at. It's not very helpful to spread this out over half a dozen tangentially related threads.

I suggest linking to here: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5851297/fault-20-on-miele-combination-steam-oven-dgc-6800-xl-cross-posted

AK- F20 is a known issue for the Miele steam cookers. There's an issue with the water level sensor in the boiler. Miele has a fault code for this and has been directed to replace the boiler (steam generator) on these units. They also have a "series fault" code to put the call under so that it's no charge to you and they get reimbursed by Big Daddy Miele in Germany.

ROFL! That's pretty much correct! Miele-employed factory technicians go through about 6-8 weeks of training where the independents get that scaled down to a week or less as a general rule. (Factory techs used to get closer to 12 weeks training.) F10 usually points to a faulty drain pinch valve staying open or the fill-sensing electrode in the steam generator not sensing being filled. There are a few other possibilities, but these are the 2 biggies that happen maybe 95% of the time with an F10. The one thing you can check is to see if the little hose in the water container is pointing down and is not damaged, meaning the water should be going from the container, through the pump and into the generator. If that hose isn't pointing down or is cracked, that could be the issue.

I had this F10 error issue. We started the steaming cycle and F10 showed up. I decided to run a descaling cycle to try to clear it out. This put the machine in infinite loop - descaling would stop when 18.5 mins in the cycle was remaining due to error code F10. The only option was to power off the unit and restart, however, as the descaling cycle was incomplete, it would force me to restart descaling and again stop due to F10 - thus the infinite loop.

I finally took the oven out of the cabinet and opened it up. The first thing I noticed was the gunk and oil deposited in the drain pump container and the silicone tube connected to the drain coming from the center hole in the oven - it was almost clogged due to all the gunk. I cleaned the tube, opened the drain reservoir, opened the impeller housing and cleaned everything. I thought the drain was blocked prompting F10. Restart the machine, start the descaling and again F10! So, this was not the issue, although, lesson learned - must clean the oven after each use to prevent the gunk from building up.

The next culprit was a small solenoid driven pump that opens to allow the water from the reservoir to enter the boiler to make steam (ULKA Model: NME, Type: 1S). I found this helpful video describing common issues with this type of pump (https://youtu.be/DoO9ckyJ-rs). As we NEVER use the steam function, I assumed that the pump must be jammed somehow. So, I took the pump apart. It was completely clean, but as it had not moved in a few years, it was likely stuck due to some very small particles. I reassembled it and also connected it to a 240V line a few times to manually run it (please be careful when connecting to a live line - safety first). Reconnected the pump and started the machine again. This was it. The pump now started working, allowing the water to enter the boiler. This allowed the descaling to complete and solve the F10 issue.

If you don't want to go through the trial and error of fixing the pump, I think you can buy it on eBay for $20-30.

@ronk I am having this exact same issue. I'm wondering how difficult this is to reach that solenoid pump and either take it apart like that video you linked or replace with a new one?

Same here,
Tech here as we speak installing steam generator #2

Put the machine in service mode and make the valve or pump activate several times for a couple of seconds. I just did this with a hot water diversion valve on a coffee center that was stuck. Tech visit would have been at least $250 (that $ figure is from 2019). Took me 3 minutes because I knew what to do.

I have a DGC 6765 steam oven which gave an F10 error 3 months after the warranty was out. This link https://youtu.be/DoO9ckyJ-rs, posted by another user here, is very helpful about the type of water pump (but not the actual model used in the Miele). The one in the Miele is an ARS MPP2.02.041.3/ST/S 208-240V. It can be unscrewed with pliers on either side of the pump once it's removed. Inside I found a broken spring (.25" x .75") that I was able to replace from Amazon as part of a 400pc stainless steel variety pack, for $16 and delivered the next day. Problem solved. Very easy once you do it once.

As a note, the voltage across the pump in operation is only 170V or so even with 240V applied, because there is a downstream diode that blocks part of the voltage, so as to create a push in one direction only (with the spring returning the piston during the blocked voltage, hence the vibratory nature). I was originally concerned that I had a problem control board (causing an output of only 170V instead of the full 240V, hence the pump not working b/c insufficient voltage was applied). Once I discovered the inline diode, I thought that perhaps it was defective because it has a 500 ohm resistance in the direction of current flow. Hence, unfamiliar with diodes (still), I thought it was creating a voltage drop (which it sort of is, but intentionally) and causing the pump not to run. I ordered new diode and discovered they have the same resistance as the original diode, and therefore eliminated that as the culprit. A "new" replacement pump from Ebay (the only place I could find them) was about $100-$160 and I wasn't convinced that the pump would be truly new/functional (some "open box" etc), so even if I replaced it with a "new" ebay pump, if it didn't work, I was afraid I still wouldn't know if it was due to a bad control board or a "new" defective pump installed from ebay. Hence I decided to take apart the old pump and found the broken spring (snapped and then double coiled over itself).