It is not "wee critters that munch on the wood" that causes the problem - it is how well the wood will hold up to soil moisture. Wood exposed to water rots, some woods faster than others. Douglas fir is not all that long lived when in contact with moisture....only 3-6 years. Pine ditto. But cedars (western red cedar, Alaska cedar, incense cedar and eastern red cedar) are very rot resistant, as is redwood, black walnut, white oak and eucalyptus - anywhere from 10-25 years. Treated doug fir is also good (up to 30 years) but untreated, not at all. And a liner can extend the life of raised bed wood just by virtue of keeping wet soil from direct contact. As to soil appropriate to a raised bed, garden soil enriched with some compost works perfectly fine - you don't need to get overly creative in the mix. A raised bed is just an elevated garden bed, nothing more. If you do not have sufficient soil available to fill your beds, bagged garden soil or bulk 'garden mix' will work perfectly well although I'd want to add some OM if none included in the mix. Raised beds sometimes have solid bottoms and are sometimes located on solid surfaces like driveways or patios but open to the ground on the bottom is most desirable, especially for good drainage. So no rock or stone base. This also allows deeper rooted plants to penetrate down into the indigenous soil as well. Decent drainage is usually a given, just based on the bed's elevation. The "standard" configuration for a raised bed is one that is 8' long by 4' wide. This allows the gardener to access all the plants easily by reach alone without actually entering the bed itself. Height is your choice - if you are growing deeper rooting plants, you might want a deeper bed - but anywhere from 8-16" is about ideal. Obviously the deep the bed, the more soil required. Watering can be done with a soaker hose, drip, by hand or with a sprinkler - it really doesn't matter as long as the plants receive adequate moisture as needed.

Not only okay, but beneficial! As long as the twigs have been dead for a while. Green wood will rob the soil of Nitrogen. I don't see any reason not to add the fish fertilizer as well.

Thanks kathy and peren.all. Peren.all the owl is looking out for squirrels that are trying to dig in that bed! I am looking forward to seeing the plants that are planted there next year. I've added a few minis, an arum italicum, a few propagated heuchera and am planning to replant tulip bulbs that had to be dug up. I don't have much success with tulips around here (even though I love them)---the squirrels love them too! An avid gardener I know told me she puts chicken wire on the soil where she plants bulbs to keep the squirrels from digging up her bulbs. But even then, the squirrels sometimes just bite off the bud. Frustrating---when all I am asking for is a dozen red tulips! Photo taken April 2018. One of those rare years when I actually got to see all my tulips bloom. This year---not even one. (Note, that hachone grass behind the tulips is the one in the raised bed now.) I love that plant! Mine doesn't get the amount of sun it should, so the coloration is not at its best. Love seeing it sway in the wind.

Durock's website says to install on wood. But I found this info... Manufacturer Recommendations James Hardie Industries, makers of HardieBacker®, and USG, makers of Durock®, indicate that their respective cement backer boards should not be installed over concrete. James Hardie: HardieBacker specifications specifically exclude concrete as a base for installation. USG: Durock does not expressly exclude concrete, but the material is specified only for minimum 5/8-inch exterior-grade plywood or OSB. One source reports that USG will not officially validate the Durock-to-concrete attachment simply because they have not tested it. The lack of testing may be simply because so few customers express a need for applying Durock to concrete. There is no problem with the two materials being compatible. The issue, as Bud Cline of The Floor Pro says, is more about how to attach the cement board to the concrete. A powder-actuated nailer is out of the question since nail depth would be impossible to regulate. Concrete screws, Cline says, have heads that are too small to hold down the cement board. His recommendation: Work with the concrete surface so that it is strong enough and porous enough to accept tile mortar. Portland cement-based fillers can take care holes and cracks. Painted concrete can be sandblasted, sanded, or ground down to bring up a nice, porous surface. Most tile professionals, including John Bridge, concur: Attaching cement board to concrete is not an acceptable way to surface the concrete prior to tile installation. Thin-set alone will not help the cement board stick to the concrete slab. Screws are the only logical way to do this, but it would entail an extremely tedious and time-consuming process of drilling pilot holes before sinking the screws. Additionally, you would be fighting against the thin-set bed under the cement board when drilling the holes and driving the screws. The View of Tile Professionals But the manufacturer prohibitions or omissions are warranty issues. The questions remain: Can you effectively pair two cementitious products—cement board and a concrete slab? ************************************ I went to Wedi's website, and the foam panels CAN be used on concrete for floor tile. Installation over concrete subfloors Floor application for wedi Building Panel All wedi Building Panel sizes and thicknesses can be used as tile underlayments over concrete subfloors. Modified thinset mortar, combed through with a minimum 1/4” x 1/4” notch trowel, will then provide a ribbed bed into which the wedi Building Panels will be laid. All joints should be staggered so that no seam continues throughout the length of the floor. Apply weights (i.e. tile boxes) onto the surface and where transitions are located while the mortar is setting up. After the mortar has set, wedi alkali resistant fiberglass mesh tape, or wedi Sealing Tape or wedi Joint Sealant should be applied to all seams, then tiling can begin. So Wedi panels may be easier and faster for us to install after the marble tile is gone. I also found a new floating porcelain tile product that Dal Tile started selling. It is like installing laminate flooring or vinyl planks. Dal Tile Revo Tile - they said I could install it over the marble as long as I level the floor with self-leveling compound, including where the missing tile is. I still need to follow requirements per tile industry as to x " per 10 ft. I can't remember ... 3/16" or something like that. https://www.daltile.com/revotile $4.50 sf plus $25.00 for tools, $58.00 for 9 lbs of grout. Underlayment $54.00. Adhesive tape for seams. $542.00 and I can install it. I am calling We Ship Floors tomorrow to see if their floating Supercore Extreme Vinyl Tiles can be installed over my marble once the floor is leveled. And if I can install over Wedi panels. For someone who works with mud day in and day out, I am sure it is much cheaper, but I am afraid that I can't do it. Three more tile guys today told me wrong installation procedures for backerboard on the marble and for the tub surround, so I will not be calling them back. Just because they owned a trowel doesn't make them an expert on tiling,