DO NOT SPRAY RUGOSAS. What you are seeing is perfectly normal. Shrivelling hips and dieback is normal for rugosas (and many other plants). The hips are seed pods, just like on other shrubs and perennials. The hips are shrivelling because they are drying out and getting ready fall off, open up and spread the word. Just like apples. The dieback is because that branch has done its duty. The plant's energy can now be directed to new growth, new flowers, new hips... To prevent this, remove the hips while they are still green. I leave only the last batch of hips in the fall. Or, if you want to use them for jelly, pick them just as they turn red, before they shrivel. For rose hip tea, you can wait until they dry a bit and then they are easier to grind up. Iron deficiency is very obvious. The leaves turn chloritic (light yellowish green) and the veins stand out a darker green.

I hate to contradict you Mike (you're such a nice guy!), but concrete leaching calcium carbonate out the lime component of its ingredients is well documented. It can happen just by exposure to air (combining with CO2) or with water - rain water, irrigation water, groundwater, etc. This is a process called carbonation and it actually makes the concrete structurally stronger (if unreinforced). Concrete is strongly alkaline - around 12.0 - and while most intense with fresh concrete, leaching occurs over the lifetime of the concrete structure. Does this have an effect on soil pH? You bet, but I've yet to read any definitive studies that measure that specifically. If one's soil is only slightly to moderately acidic to begin with, as it is here in the PNW, planting acid loving plants in close proximity to concrete structures (foundations, walkways, driveways, etc.) is very likely to cause less than optimum growth as the higher pH will limit nutrient access. It's very easy to test - just do a pH test of unamended soil taken from a foundation planting bed and compare it to the same test with soil taken from out in the open, well away from any concrete . The foundation bed will have a pH noticeably higher than the open soil. Could this affect the maple? Possibly, but it is something that can be easily overcome with an acidic fertilizer like one would use for rhodies and azaleas.

Good for you for digging up the tag!! And yes, the leaves still look perfectly normal AFA any disease or insect problems are concerned. But you do not have a true 'Bloodgood' - those leaves would be a solid wine red if you did. 'Bloodgood' is arguably the most popular and widely sold cultivar of Japanese maple and has been so for many years. Because of that popularity, any number of less than ethical growers have flooded the market with so-called bloodgood look-alikes, typically seedling grown trees. Since all named forms of JM can only be propagated asexually, typically by grafting, any seedling trees are just plain old Japanese maples regardless of the name of the tree that generated the seeds. And ones with red leaves or mostly red leaves are usually attributed to the varietal name atropurpureum. So Acer palmatum var. atropurpureum translates to simply 'red leaved Japanese maple :-) It's hard to find a true 'Bloodgood' in commerce unless you frequent retail nurseries that bring in JM's only from reputable growers. And even that can be a bit of an issue, depending on the provenance of the tree they were taking graft cuttings from. So if that was a great deal maple found at Home Depot or Costco or other non-nursery outlets, chances are very good it is not true to name. But that doesn't mean it isn't a perfectly acceptable and attractive little tree. It's just not a real 'Bloodgood'.

Could be a couple of reasons: they have been mistagged they could be seedling grown and therefore not clones of the parent tree (fairly sure this not the case as I can see graft unions on at least 3 of them pretty clearly) they have been raised in a lot of shade and so have not developed their true color. Any red pigmentation (anthocyanins) are developed and enhanced by sunlight. Too much shade will typically leave them green or let the chlorophyll predominate. I suspect the last is most likely the case.......combined with them having been shipped from a warmer zone (??) and so not yet showing any signs of fall color/dormancy. ETA: If true to name, a red leafed JM will have red leaves all season long. They may be different colorations of red or purple or copper or even pink, depending on the cultivar and the season but they are rarely ever fully green unless deprived of sunlight. Of the 4 cultivars the OP acquired, 3 of them should never show green foliage unless grown in full shade. Brocade is one of a handful of JM's that sort of splits the difference between green foliage and red....in more sun, the red will be more pronounced but the foliage will always have a greenish, bronzy tint to it as well.