If you have a cat, might be the problem.

My cat peed on it a few times but I flushed it out.

I think mechanical injury, too.

Al

Looks like kitty cat is also using it as a scratching post.

Anything more specific?

If you let us know what you're wondering about, we can provide an answer. Mechanical injury can be caused by leaves beating against each other or branches in the wind, handling during transit, shopping carts brushing against plants in the store, cats, rats, and elephants (that latest from the lyrics to the Irish Rover's tune about a unicorn.), or anything you can think of that would bruise leaf tissue.

If you want to read up on good growing practices, follow the link.

If you're looking for an overview of growing Ficus benjamina in containers, try the link just provided.

Helpful?

Al

Yes that's helpful. Thanks. Also some of the new leaves are deformed and crinkled. Any ideas?

Can you post photos of the new leaves?

i have 5-6 F. Benjamina, the largest over 6 feet. I've seen all sorts of deformed growth at times. Usually, it was spider mite related. It could be cultural though.

How much light does your tree recieve? Where are you located? What type of soil? How often do you water? How often do you fertalize and with what? How you ever inspected for pests? Have you repotted ever (not potted up) How long have you had the tree?

Hooking of leaf tips and leaf deformities (combined) are strong but not necessarily positive indicators of a Ca deficiency. The bad news is, Ca deficiencies can be caused by a number of issues, among them are waterlogged soils, dry soils, too much N available, low light levels, high humidity, inappropriate soil pH, using a high-P fertilizer, a high level of Mg in the soil, an inadequate amount of Ca in the soil, any combination of the causes mentioned.

Al

My tree wasn't getting much light so I moved it from a north facing window to a west facing. I have the blinds shut upwards to create filtered light. Might not be used to it yet which could explain some of the tip burn. I don't know the soil type. The tree has been in its container for many years, perhaps up to 10. I inherited the tree from my late mother and ever since it has been at my place it has gone slowly downhill.

I fertilized two months ago with MG 24-8-16. Last month I flushed the soil because I thought salty soil could of been the issue. Last week I pruned and watered (no fertilizer).

I think I should repot or at least add fresh soil. Problem is I don't know how and it's a fairly large tree. It has a lot of sentimental value so I don't want to damage it.

The tree is in dire need of a repot. You'd bare root the tree, root prune and place in a fresh mix.

Also, a west facing window still isn't enough light, but that's better than a northern facing window.

You do not need to have the blinds shut at all. The leaves won't burn from sunlight through a window. And tips don't just burn, the whole leaf would turn white if that was an issue. Open those blinds and give it all the light you can.

Mine is in a south facing window (gets direct sun all day) with five 5500k 250w grow lights in 14 hours a day. Mine still doesn't get as much light as it wants.

In the summer, I put mine outside in full direct sun. That's when it does best and looks amazing.

Unfortunately west is all I can do in my condo. The tree has never been in direct light. I've read that direct light can be good and bad. Most say should be filtered light. I ordered a soil test kit and I'll post some pics when the tree improves. Any other advice is appreciated.

Ficus benjamina naturally would prefer outdoor direct sun.

even if sun is shining through a window directly on the tree, the glass is still highly filtering it and it's no where near as intense as outside. That said, you do not need to use any blinds or curtains. Give it all of the light you can possible give it. Even if you had a south facing window that recives sun all day song, you still shouldn't filter the light and you should put the tree as close to the window as you can.

i can tell you firsthand, filtered light is not what any ficus prefers.

Did my soil test...looks like my problem could be fertilizer burn. Very high N and P. Would a good flushing resolve the issue or should I just change the soil?

Do you water in sips? It's probably a combination of that, using tap water and the fact that it's been in the same pot for 10 years.

A good flushing (pouring room temp tap water [not softened] = to about 10X the volume of the pot the plant's in through the soil slowly) is like hitting the fertilizer 'reset' button; so, yes, do it.

Re the soil - if it's a good soil that's still structurally sound, there's no reason to change it - unless the plant needs repotting. I just reviewed our conversation and it appears it does. I talk endlessly about soils for one simple reason - there are very few things that can even compete with soil choice insofar as offering the grower the most traction for increasing his proficiency. Good light is the closest. A huge % of the issues for which people come here seeking remedial advice are directly related to poor root health resulting from a soil that doesn't allow the grower to water correctly. If you're serious about increasing your proficiency at growing in containers, spending some time learning about soils is by far the best way to invest your time. Let me know if you want direction in that regard.

Al

Any info on soils would be great. Thanks for all the help!

I picked up some Foliage Pro from Amazon. From reading other forums on this site it seemed to be recommended. No more MG. I won't use it until I figure out the soil issue.

Container
Soils XXII

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2842847/container-soils-water-movement-and-retention?n=8

Good
Growing Practices - An Overview

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg101400289284.html

Ficus
Trees in Containers

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg0605413419276.html

Hopefully those will provide some traction.

Al