Many people cross post because the Kitchen Forum gets more traffic, and the essential planning concepts are very similar. We are very visual, so an actual scaled drawing with measurements (on graph paper or something) is really preferable to a schematic. My initial thought is that you will not be able to get full his/her in this amount of space and have it feel like a master bath. You may be able to do two toilet compartments and share the rest of the space. I am putting two full baths in 13+ x 6'9" so I know it can be done, but one of them is tiny and requires a wall hung toilet. (I had squeezed it down to 12 but figured out that moving things a bit over a foot to gain a foot in the bedroom was not worth it.) But this is an urban house and half the size of yours and I only started with 1.5 baths and will end up with 3, so I have a different program.

Your original kitchen plan is VERY similar to my current kitchen. Except that our fridge is next to the pantry door, and we have wall oven/microwave where you have the fridge now. And our island is a little longer -- matches same size as its opposite wall, not counting pantry door. Our place (a condo) had no space for an L with island, so our options were more limited. I like having the sink in the island opposite the cooktop because it allows me to face the views/ windows and socialize with those in the living area while i'm prepping/cleaning up. It is true that it can get messy (sink splash) behind the sink, and for that reason we only have 4 stools, two on either side of the sink. But I love having the pantry and fridge together, as it makes pulling together ingredients for a meal easy. Your plan would frustrate me as it would seem you'd have to walk to the pantry... walk all the way to the other side to the fridge... If you move the sink to the L part then it seems a long long way to the fridge. Imagine getting out some veggies from the fridge, walking them ALL the way over to the sink to wash them, then to the island to prep them while you chat with family on the stools. Now it's clean-up time and you've packed away leftovers at the sink / garbage can, but have to walk ALL the way over to the fridge to put them away.... I'm going to also say that our kitchen works because we have ample walk-in pantry space (coffee station and cleaning supplies live in there too) AND also have floor-to-ceiling built-ins along the DR wall for entertaining items, china, tablecloths, seasonal stuff too. Overall I love our kitchen layout as it's tight and super efficient. I don't get a work out making a meal as everything is close by. Making pasta? I fill the pot at the sink, turn around, walk two steps, and put it on the cooktop. Draining the pasta? It's reverse. I prep on the side of the right side of the island across from the fridge/pantry. I pull out hot oven trays and leave them to cool on the left side. I have less comments on the master bath/closet as I dislike double sinks and toilet closets. I would prefer more closet space and less bath space, but that's me. Master closet: you may be different than us, but it was #1 priority for us to have separate closets, having had to share for years. Mine is a walk-in his is a built-in along one wall. You could possibly do a built-in across from the bed and have a space for a t.v. if you want a t.v. in the bedroom. Laundry wise, think about noise, if you do laundry at night. Linen closets are awesome, but you do seem to have enough space in the baths for towels in drawers, and the laundry is generous and not far away. Just think about non-linen items like extra TP, toiletries, maybe cleaning supplies, etc you generally store in the linen closet now (if you do). Where are your cleaning supplies going to go? Vacuum? Mop and other tall/ bulky cleaning tools? We have a very small entry but it works; but it does have a closet. We don't use our DR table all that often so we were fine making the trade-off for a larger kitchen/ smaller DR (in fact we swapped the two spaces in our reno). The space is probably below standards for clearance but we put in comfy DR chairs and mood lighting, and nobody complains.

What's the optimal size for a shower in an average master bath? Ideally 4' x 5' seems to be optimal. Mine is 44" x 5' and works great. And a related question -- how much glass surround is optimal? I noticed one of the posters on the 10ft shower thread commented that 3 walls of glass made things chillier. I believe I was the one who pointed this out but the problem wasn't that it was chillier. The problem is having to clean (squeegee) all that glass every single time you shower. Otherwise you'll be constantly seeing spots and soap scum on the shower. Yes Showerguard will help with spots and soap scum, but not 100%. The problem wasn't the glass. It was having 10'. Also I just played a bit with your plan again and here are my reasons: In the second bath, I moved the shower to the wall against the existing bedroom. This way you have more room in the actual bathroom for moving around. This also one day could be a handicap accessible bath if needed. Plus now every time you need to use the sink, you don't have to first close the bathroom door just to walk around the door. I moved the entry to your master further into the hallway. This creates a bit more of an "entrance" into your bedroom and actually makes your bedroom a bit larger because you don't now have the doorway taking up space in the bedroom. Plus now the doorway isn't practically hitting the closet door. I flipped the shower and tub and the entry and vanities. Why? So the bathroom door to the closets is closer. Then I moved the bed to the right wall and the dresser to between the closets. This is the exact same size, but notice how more spacious it feels? Plus now one person doesn't have to cram into the space between the night table and closet opening to get to their clothes. (And yes, ideally no one should need to walk around the bed to get to the bathroom, but in this case, I feel the much improved layout trumps having to walk slightly around the bed.

1) Go with the 1" beveled. It's an upgraded look. 2) With either the flat or the beveled, place a couple inches (at least) above the backsplash versus touching. 3) The thicker, the nicer, but then you'll have the edges to deal with (framing). 4) Go with the sconces you like. If they turn out to be not quite "right", you can always replace them later. Just as an aside, do you regularly sit at your current make-up vanity? Or do you find yourself standing at the sink when applying make-up/doing your hair? If you don't actually sit there, that would be a nice place for floor to ceiling storage cabinet. BTW, I recently purchased a new mirror for my powder room and saw many large (30"x50") mirrors readily available on-line so you may not need to have them custom made.