bailey250, Don't take this the wrong way although I can understand if you don't like hearing it. This sounds like user error. If the chain is locked up, I would suspect a too tight chain or chain brake. I don't think the 250's have an oil filter (I could be wrong). In any case it would not be an engine oil filter to avoid confusion, but a bar oil filter. If clogged, it would not lock the chain unless as den stated, it allowed the chain to work too hard. However, that points back to an inexperienced user if you let the chain get that hot. Metal shavings have no way to get into the bar oil tank/reservoir unless they are put there. I think everything inside of them is plastic. If it sat for awhile, your gas and oil mix could be old. Also your carb may be gummed up some from old fuel. I'd try dumping the existing mix in the engine and putting in fresh. That is gas that you just bought in the last week or so and oil, not just some of the same old stuff. That will rule out a fuel problem and then you can look at supply problems (carb, air, exhaust). Check out this thread about MS250 oilers.

As long as the water level isn't too low the extension tube wouldn't matter for it not working. The ext. tube may be a good idea once you get it working though if you feel the tube is not deep enough. You said you primed it so thats out, unless you didn't fill the entire filter with water. You should only need to add enough to cover the impeller but I noticed that if you fill the filter up it starts up quicker. Is it churning? Or can you here the pump motor running? If not plug a lamop into the outlet to make sure it works and/or it is not a switched outlet that may be off. Check to see that the impeller is seated properly. Check to make sure the flow adjust (if it has one) is not turned down. Hope this helped.

Of those, I grow Saturnia and Purple Beauty -- and both require spraying here. Looking at the bloodlines of the other four you mention, I can see that they likely will also require spraying (strong Pernetiana and Charlotte Armstrong influence in the heritage). It actually looks pretty obvious from where I sit that these are not blackspot resistant roses that would be compatible with an organic/no spray gardening regime. We don't do blackspot here, but most any rose susceptible to our mildew here will also be susceptible to blackspot elsewhere. I can't think of any rose that mildews but does not blackspot, in appropriate geographical locations. For most areas (just not here), blackspot is the more severe affliction. Interestingly, there are a few roses that do get blackspot that do not mildew -- so it seems to be a one-way equation, as far as I can tell. You might want to concentrate on newer roses, if you are committed to the organics/no-spray course of rose growing. The reason is that, in the past, lesser air pollution controls -- the burning of dirtier coal and the spewing out of whatever into the air -- meant that roses received a sizable dose of sulphur (a very effective "organic" fungicide) just by virtue of growing in a populated area. Therefore, the older roses' breeders did not have to care very much about fungi in selecting which roses to introduce. That has all changed in the last twenty or so years. Generally speaking, with respect to "modern roses" only, the newer the rose, the more disease resistant. So, if you are "organic" and you want not to spray anything, even the "organics," then either go with the really old -- those survivors from cemetaries and so forth -- or the really much newer plants. Most anything from mid-century will be a disease problem for you. It wasn't that the breeders then were any less concerned about the health or beauty of their roses -- just that fungus-based disease was not really something they had to worry about. As I sit here, I'm trying to think of any modern rose introduced between say 1940 and 1980 that doesn't require spraying and I'm not coming up with much, which, I guess, is a large part of Vintage's problem. Vintage is however carrying quite a few rare, but newer roses now, including most of those recently imported by Eurodesert from Europe. Maybe you could look through that group. As a side note, the reason I put "organics" in quotes here is because lime sulphur, although officially an organic, is quite a bit more toxic to humans and wildlife than, say, Compass as a fungicide, and must be used more often and in higher doses to control anything. Good luck (although I'm sure that is not what you wanted to hear and sorry to be the bearer of bad news -- please don't shoot), Kathy

All you want is to not have to use the apple wall plug and still have fast charging? Your question could be clearer. Your best bet is as above stated...buy it. If you want to mod the cable thats a little different. I was looking into making a hub useable for fast charging and data transfer at the same time. I found it to be complicated by apple. They add ressistors to there plug lines to disallow fast charging from some devices. The resistor can vary from iphone models. I was looking at the time the 4 was the thing so maybe things have changed. There was a company that would sell the mod parts but I forget the name. For some reason I think they could not sell completed units... legalese crap. In the end I never made the time to do the mod. Just use the wall plugs. You make me wonder if fast charging will work in the hard wired wall usb outlets I bought... never though to check. I never had an issue other than hubs. You may be better served asking at a place like XDAdevelopers. Edit...http://gizmodo.com/5029844/simple-hack-turns-usb-charger-units-into-iphone-chargers This post was edited by Noctua on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 13:07