Help needed ASAP w/ Bathroom decision re: drastic metal mix
gramarows
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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gramarows
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
In desperate need of bathroom help!
Comments (10)I keep coming back to your bathroom to see why it bothers me. There's not anything obviously "wrong" about it, but it just seems cold or impersonal or something. Maybe it's reflecting your postpartum depression at the time you designed it. Hopefully that has resolved itself and life looks better now. And here's wishing baby-cakes is sleeping through the night! One thing I'd definitely do is find another solution for the bath towels hanging over the tub. They crowd it and look like they're going to fall in. I also don't see hand towels over by the sinks, but maybe they're there and we can't see. Those are little things. Not really good for your budget, but how do you feel about a chandelier to replace the ceiling light? Your original color choices are on the elegant side and a chandelier would emphasize that, and perhaps warm things up. Similarly, you could go with framed mirrors to match your style - I can see either sleek and modern or baroque. A chandelier could complement either of those choices. With some style choices your current wall lighting will be just the thing, but with other styles, side sconces might be better. If those were my cabinets, yes, I'd put hardware on. Again, something to complement your tastes. I can see clear glass-looking knobs and pulls, but there are lots of choices. Unless you really hate the faucets, though, I'd leave them and spend the money elsewhere. For more ideas, be sure to check out houzz.com. They have some 7000+ plus bathrooms to look at (actually 7000 pieces of bathrooms), and there might be elements that will make you say aha!...See MoreWhat was your best / worst bathroom remodeling decision?
Comments (41)peony23, I would still go with the Inax, though I would get the mid-ranged model, called the "R". I have the "L". They both have a wall mounted remote which I like, though others have said the seat mounted type on the "C" is working fine for them without issue. The "C" is the lowest priced model of the 3. The middle priced model "R" still has a blow dryer like the highest priced "L", but not the higher wattage fan that the model "L" has. But I hardly use the fan. The "R" looks like it has a lower profile in the tank area too. What I wish though, is that I could switch the one in this guest bathroom (referred to above) to my progressing remodel, and get the "C" Inax for the guest bath, as it has the lowest profile at the back and would go much better with my traditional toilet. But my new remodel has an elongated toilet seat and my guest bath is a rounded front. I will link the website to Inax. The price listed on the web site is not what you will have to pay. I think I paid around $800 for the "L" online. Terry Love forum sells them but I don't know if he has the "R", I only saw the "L" and the "C" on his site. The reason I would stay with the Inax is that I have had very good use with mine over the last year. They've been producing the advanced toilet seat for years and were the pioneers of the system. They have a good reputation. Another reason is that there are two wands that do the washing, one for the front area and a second, at a different angle, for the posterior area. These were strategically angled to provide the best cleaning of these differing areas. I went with the Inax initially because of recommendations by Herring_Maven who has very detailed comments and thoughtful post here, and on other forums at GW. I really appreciate the post H_M provides. Here is a link that might be useful: Inax advanced toilet seat This post was edited by enduring on Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 10:55...See MoreBathroom Reveal, Thanks to the Bathroom and Remodel Forums! (pic
Comments (56)This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage....See MoreNeed help with bathroom-Please...
Comments (34)Terri, I drew this up using the added-up dimensions you gave for both walls -which pretty much agree- instead of the 14' 10" measurement, which is a couple feet longer. If I'm wrong, then these ideas are mute, and I'll redraw it. Let me know. (Adding up the smaller measurements I get 150"-151.5" total room length; that's what I drew.) If this is correct, there won't be enough space to simply extend the counter down for makeup area without creating an odd, ungainly space down next to the shower wall. BUT... there's a nice nook there for making a built-in make-up area on the wall next to the shower. I would use the same counter material (I think you will find that nothing comes close, price-wise, to the Ikea counters, and they are totally worth the 3 hour drive! I know a lot of people who've driven all day for it :))... anyway, I'd use the same counter material, and build it in by setting it on a 9" cabinet on one side, and simply attached to the wall with cleats on the other side. Or, no cabinet, more legroom, but then you will need wall storage for all the makeup and stuff. Maybe a nice slim wall cabinet on one wall would work well and be the cheapest way to do it nicely? Put a big window in between the vanity and makeup desk... lots of natural light. I like the idea of losing the big tall cabinet next to the sink, if it works with your budget. I think the room will feel much airier and spacious without it, to compensate for the fact that you're adding more shower bulk, which will make the room smaller. It also seems to me that the 18" deep space opposite the vanity is sort of wasted now. How about doing open shelving there, with a matching set of pretty boxes/baskets on it to hold some of your bathroom stuff, and folded towels can also go there... imagine how much more open feeling that whole vanity/sink area will feel without the tall cabinet there. You could do some open shelves, and some hooks if you like robe storage there... I would replace the mirror over the sink with a larger one, with nice sconces on either side. In the wall area now taken up by the tall cabinet, you could add a couple more (matching) open shelves with baskets/bins if you need more storage. If you decide to replace your vanity, I would highly recommend getting base cabinets with drawers rather than doors. it is SOOOOO much easier to stow your stuff, like all the bottles and tubes that end up on the counter, if there are drawers to pull open rather than hard-to-access shelves inside regular cabinet doors. If you wanted to explore doing that, I'd recommend simply getting base cabinets (just like kitchen ones, except they are shallower (although it'll be cheaper and easier to use regular kitchen ones if you have the depth for 24" cabs there, I couldn't quite tell from the drawing...) For example, using Ikea kitchen base cabinets, you could do the whole run, from the corner next to the door, to where the vanity ends now, for about $600 including a whole bunch of soft-close drawers, in this style (of course there are lots to choose from!) or $525 in this style of cabinet (I know you don't ike the green color, but the pics are just for the cabinets) Some Ikea bases with drawers actually come in 12" deep sizes, so even if you didn't have space for full 24" deep, you could still do it. By the way, when I was poking around on the Ikea web site, I saw several drawer/cabinet things that are a nice, rustic look like you're after. Very inexpensive, too. You might like some of them. If you are considering re-doing your cabinets, that would be another possible budget-minded way to go :) by using something like this, and a wood top. Might need to add some slightly taller legs (easy to do in similar pine) to get it to the right height. If you do something along these lines, I don't think you need the beadboard on the walls. Especially since you seem not to like "so much white"... although of course if you want to spend a bit more you could do rustic wood siding on the walls. I think you asked about painted wood walls, above. WEre you talking about this: ? I think that's painted V-groove paneling. It comes many ways... some in sheets, primed MDF. Some as individual or double planks, either primed or even rustic knotty pine. It's basically like beadboard, but without the bead, and iinstalled horizontally rather than vertically. If you like this look, you should check into pricing for the "real" 1/2" stuff (not the cheaper, thin MDF panels) which can be installed INSTEAD OF sheetrock. I don't know, but it may be similar pricing, because you wouldn't have to pay for all the expensive labor to finish the sheetrock. Maybe you and your DH could even install it yourselves?...See Moregramarows
6 years agogramarows
6 years agogramarows
6 years agoBunny
6 years agoBunny
6 years agogramarows
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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