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Please help -- chinotto orange / myrtle leaf orange looks sick..!!

william_meister

8 years ago

Hi everyone, Last year I bought a myrtle leaf orange (AKA chinotto orange) from Logees. This is actually the second one I bought because the first one died for reasons I couldn't figure out. This one is basically just a baby that up until a couple weeks ago was growing very slowly. Then a few days ago the leaves on the top started to blacken in color, became hard and brittle, curled, and fell off. The symptoms appear to be moving from the top of the little tree down!!

The only thing I changed, I can think, was I sprinkled a little bit of Dr Earth organic fertilizer on the soil when before I was sprinkling liquid dynagro. I wonder if I over fertilized?

I unpotted to look at the roots and they are a healthy tan color. No issues there. I also checked the soil pH, and it looks to be quite acidic (around 5.0? see pic). But I didn't think that such a condition would kill the plant, so I don't know if thats it either.

Any ideas what is happening and what I can do to fix?

hANKS!

Comments (5)

hobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
8 years ago
A lot of people say terra cotta is not good for citrus, I use it on my citrus and I like it but when I pot up I will switch to plastic or resin.

Your soil looks heavy and compactly, research 5-1-1 mix here. I tried a gritty mix but I think it dries out too fast with terra cotta pots so that's why I would recommend 5-1-1.

Here is my chinotto, it is my favorite tree and it grows like a champ and fruits even though it is still quite small.
hobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
8 years ago
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That's not the mulch I have in mind. Although they may retain water and fertilizer, it will consume nitrogen that is needed by the plant badly when they start decomposing. You could use that as top dressing but what I want you to use are compost that are already decomposted meaning already rutted. The color of this things are black. Even black soil is good to mix with your sandy soil because they were decomposted organic matters. That's what you want organic matters in your soil. You can buy this in store just buy garden soil or peat or what you can find. It will be impossible to have root rut if you have a very well draining oil. And I am not the one who told you you'll have root rut. The mulch that you put will not help your plant to improve pH. I'll give you a hint: It is black in color. You seem to see already by just adding that top dressing. What more if you add what I am telling about. Up to the drip line mind you. On the drip line is where you will find the most of the roots that are helpful. Even you can add, steer manure for fertilizer. And they are so cheap. %.99 a bag. put 2 or 3 bags around your plant up to the drip line. If you do what I tell you you'll se it will triple the buds and the leaves of your plant and most of all the leaves will be dark green. And don't be surprised that they will have flowers with them. then fruit.
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sillica, Curious. I went to the CRFG's tour of a private citrus collection last weekend and there was a mature, labelled specimen of a procimequat planted there. The only reason reason I even looked at it was that I was recently given some procimequat seeds and fruit from a friend of mine. I thought the leaves were trifoliate. Knowing the owner of the collection, I would seriously doubt that he has a poncirus growing there without his knowledge. And yes, you're right on the parentage. So if you say they are typical single leaves, then I am sure you're right. It is certainly nice to have a citrus that will fruit from seed in a short period of time. hooks, I am not trying to discourage you from citrus or even procimequats as bonsai in the least. That facts that plant growth habitus varies somewhat with horticultural technique; that citrus like procimequat, limequats, and kumquats or any cultivar make nice container plants; and stability of fruit on the citrus tree--these are more of a rule than an exception. But as you well know, container culture and bonsai culture are related but not quite the same thing. I still think that the scars created from thorn removal would be unsightly and yet the thorns in young seedling citrus--especially in procimequat--can be quite disproportionate in size to a tree kept small. I do think that many citrus are not *ideal* as bonsai specimens due to long straight growth that lignifies rapidly and is not as amenable to wiring as some other plants but I am sure there are lots of citrus bonsai out there that are lovely, show-quality specimens. Now, granted, bonsai beauty is ultimately in the eye of the beholder and these are just the thoughts of someone who merely dabbles in bonsai but does appreciate the art involved. And I've been surprised by how kind and good-natured the bonsaists I've met turned out to be, so I am quite biased :)
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Hi! Chinotto orange is also callex the Myrtle-Leaf Orange (Citrus myrtifolia) it blooms late winter and spring but can flower into summer. The fruiting season is late fall and winter. The ripe fruit can hang on the tree for months! The reference book I have- "Growing Tasty Tropical Plants" says it fruits heavily even small plants. Grow on the dry side as it is susceptible to root rot if potting mix remains cool and wet. Minimum indoor temp is 50 degrees. Hope this helps and good luck! Karen
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Hi, I live in Saigon where it is hot and humid. I have a kumquat tree in a pot on my balcony which I got at the end of June last year. It arrived in a black plastic sack and looked a bit sorry. I planted it in a largeish pot with fresh compost and it responded by growing loads of new leaves, and after a couple of months it was covered in flowers which filled the balcony with lovely scent. Then came the fruit. About six weeks ago the leaves turned yellow and a few dropped. The leaves have white/grey flecks, which are a leaf coloration and not mites or anything like that. About two weeks ago it started to flower again and now we have what looks like a sick tree with both flowers and fruit on it. I have attached a link to a pic of the leaf coloration (its in my drop box). Can anyone please advise how to make my tree healthy again? Here is the link in case the URL thingie doesnt work: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rs9koslt4zhsdtc/AAAZfjbzrplMAIo2xJY7npkia?dl=0 Here is a link that might be useful: CIMG1580.jpg This post was edited by eodmatt on Sun, Feb 1, 15 at 6:36
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myermike_1micha
8 years ago
Hobby, that is a BEAUTY!! I have yet to grab one of these tree.s..They just grow so different..Do they get fragrant flowers too?

William....I buy from them all the time and I HAVE to treat them for bugs before I even think about growing one from there...Did you treat for bugs?

If that is a cutting which I am assuming it is, it's very important to grow it in a mix that does not compact and that is porous...If you are growing in peat, has there ever been a time it was left to dry out too much? Have you ever exposed it to cold? To the full sun?

To me, it looks like it's being eaten away from spider mites...I would spray with a Neem oil solution of any horticultural soap just a safe precaution...Always first...Yes, always first to check that off your list of possibilities...Then focus on the soil mix............. What's in growing in anyway? It doesn't look like any mix I have ever seen before..It looks like pure sphagnum moss
hobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
8 years ago
Hi mike thanks! Yes the swoopy arms are cute aren't they? I can't wait to pot it up this spring and watch it really take off!

It's gets nice flowers, they are very small though and clustered, much different than say a Meyer. They smell nice but since they are smaller they aren't as pungent as my other trees. That being said haven't had a big flower flush all at once yet so here is hoping!
Ainsley
7 years ago
beautiful, hobby artisan! I am a chinotto lover and have had mine for 10 years! Sadly i have had a bad freeze this year and then some bugs over the canadian winter too... hoping it will bounce back!

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