Has anyone tried Deltamethrin as a pesticide?
gardenfanatic2003
8 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (21)
zzackey
8 years ago
ewwmayo
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Neem oil mixed with BT. Anyone tried this?
Comments (16)Ive called my local university co-op extention on this as it doesnt seem as if anything that will supress something as small as mold and spores, would easily be killed by an oil application. The catapillars need to eat to have bts and other bacterias, g if the get hit by oil that may very well kill them or cut back. The bt breaksdown quickly in sunlight. So it is better to spray that first a day or two before oils at evening giving the little boogars time to injest it. Bt takes time to act within. It takes about 2-3 days to kill. In the next spray if you must spray oils then spray then. Or you can find a biological "pre-emergent" (pe) there are organic ones. A few days after that up to 7 days release beneficial insects such as wasps, pirate bugs, mealy bug destrpyers, what ever pest you need to control. There are many. Disease is now the biggest threat & there are beneficial sprays just for disease.. oils work ok but there are a few beneifial baterias that kill and supress. Unfortunately, you have to spray more than once but with this prescription you wont need to spray as often. Ive only sprayed once since june, i live in a coastal area lots of fog and wet. Now today i have to spray...two months between sprays darn well worth the cost and time....See MoreHas anyone got rid of Bermuda Grass without chemicals
Comments (58)I know this is an old thread, but I'd like to add the knowledge I've gained from battling bermuda grass over the years using only organic methods. I live on heavy clay soil and the bermuda grass is heaviest over the leach fields of our septic system. Because I can't plant anything but grass on the fields, I added lots of planting beds near and around the fields where the bermuda is the thickest, but didn't know how much of a pain that was going to be. So, to say the least, I've been whacking at the bermuda for years and learned the following: Digging it up is an almost useless undertaking mainly because of our thick clay soil. There's always enough missed that the stuff comes back fairly quickly. This is especially true if digging it up near a sidewalk or driveway. There is plenty of rhizomes under the pavement. Burning the stuff with a propane torch is fun at first but grows old quickly when you start seeing new green growth the following day. I also can't do extended burning sessions because I'm usually doing a remedial removal with good plants near the bermuda. I'm lucky enough to not burn the plants I want. Boiling water held promise when I tried it despite risking killing roots of my wanted plants. Though my first attempt at this was incredibly dangerous (super propane burner under a giant stainless pot filled with boiling water and a smaller pot to scoop and pour the water out). I saw definite slowing of the regrowth but I couldn't risk doing it the way I was. So I devised a plan to turn my propane torch into a continuous hot water flame thrower by getting thin copper tubing, turning it into a coil, and attaching it to the end of the torch. With the hose attached to the other end and a valve to adjust the water volume, I was able to torch and pour boiling water on the bermuda at the same time. Unfortunately, the bermuda just kinda laughed at the rig and kept growing. Industrial strength vinegar (ie, 20% acetic acid, and yes I know that stuff is quite dangerous) works wonders to kill the top growth, but sadly it just grows back. Now if you're putting in a new bed, thick paper or cardboard under the added soil or mulch will work, but only if timed correctly, more about that to follow. So what's left that an organic gardener has to kill this grass? The final thing in my arsenal is black plastic and not clear plastic. I've tried the clear in another area, albeit it didn't have bermuda in it, but it did have johnson grass and it loved the clear. The johnson grass just kept on growing. The black plastic I've used is the stuff meant to go in crawl spaces as the moisture barrier. It's thick, heavy, and comes in really large sizes. And it withstands the elements very well. I've used one piece now for a year and it doesn't show any UV damage that most plastics would show. Now there's a trick with using the black plastic. You have to time it right. If you want to kill the bermuda, do not put it down in the early spring to take it up in early summer or late summer for late fall removal. Because bermuda goes dormant where I live, the spring time use of the plastic will not really kill it as it is probably still dormant under the plastic. But, the interesting part is the fall timing. As cooler temps approach in late summer, the bermuda starts going dormant even though it is still green. It starts storing more in its roots. So, even if you smother it then, it will come back in the spring. I learned this dearly when using the thick paper method of killing the stuff for a new bed. The paper did its job to kill the bermuda for that year, but in the following spring when the paper degraded in the soil, the bermuda came back with a vengeance. So time laying the plastic out in the early summer to at least late summer. That should ensure total removal. Of course, if you're paranoid, like me at times, leave it longer. Now, there's another problem with thick, black plastic. You really can't use it in already established beds because it will choke out your good plants and probably wreak havoc with your soil. It works wonders for killing this stuff before establishing new beds and for areas without plantings like walk paths. But what do you do with established plantings? This year I got a new weapon. Woven black plastic: http://www.groworganic.com/sunbelt-weed-fabric-3-x-50-roll.html The stuff lets air and moisture to pass through while keeping a total blackout for the soil surface. I haven't yet tried it on my bermuda as it is still dormant-ish, but I have some ready at first signs. It looks extremely promising as the material is thick and just as light blocking as the black plastic for a crawl space moisture barrier. And it should work just fine around my already established plantings....See MoreHas anyone tried this fert on their citrus??
Comments (3)From a post I left a long while ago on the Houseplant Forum: Hmmmm. The guaranteed analysis of the primary macro-nutrients (NPK) in Eleanor's is Analysis: 0.15 - 0.85 - 0.55 This is less than 1% of ANY of the majors. 1/8 of 1% N, 7/8 of 1% P, 1/2 of 1% K. This is EXTREMELY low in fertility. Since I cannot find the rest of the analysis, I'm going to guess the rest of the nutrients are probably nonexistent or nearly so. I haven't used this potion (VF-11), but then, you don't need to ride the bus to know what makes the wheels go round & round. Forgive me for being somewhat skeptical or even cynical, but when vague claims are made like: ... and mildew is eliminated because VF-11 changes the pH and creates a condition where mildew can not grow. Once again, isn't it amazing? I wonder why there isn't something specific in the claim. Changes the pH of what? Soil? Cellular pH? Leaf surface pH - for how long? Hmmm I also wonder at: VF-11 builds so much strength and health that plant cells 'harden' and 'seal in' the amino acids which aphids feed on. You have merely eliminated their food supply. And you have done it without the use of poisonous systemic or pesticides. Pretty nice...huh? Don't aphids feed on sap. How does this product make the sap unavailable to aphids? Does it somehow make cells so hard that they cannot be penetrated and dry up all the intra-cellular plant water/sap? Should I/we be saying GMAB here? There's more, but you get the drift. I wouldn't say that this product has no benefit, as it may very well have some, but I am of the general feeling there is almost surely no panacean value to products like Superthrive or this elixir, and it's a good bet it's not the magic potion some may think it to be. I don't trust advertising that is known to be false and this alone is enough to fuel the skepticism in me. One thing additional: The claim that "you cannot overdo", means there could only be extremely minute (almost immeasurable or nonexistent) amounts of any micro-nutrients in it because micro-nutrient overdose produces toxicity at even low levels and over-doing would reveal readily visible symptoms quickly. Like I said, I wouldn't argue that it has no value, but I do know that I would invest in a good, known source of micro-nutrients and an appropriate fertilizer before I'd trust plant vitality to a product labeled with insubstantial claims. Al...See MoreHas anyone tried Diatomaceous Earth?
Comments (18)I purchased a 50 lb bag for 25$ and find it works for: reducing the baldness that comes from outside on my dog and cat. Works wonders. I am also putting it in their food for Tx for worms. I am currently using it on my horses for the same. However, it ruined my veggie garden by warding off my pollinators. How sad! I got one zuke and 3 yellow squash only. We have those japanese beetles that have so many offspring I had to try something. I had not even gotten 1 zuke in past years. The diatomaceous earth is food grade and edible. Supposidly it is pure silica, and it is good for hair, nails, and worming! It doesn't kill the ants, but makes them move. I have been herding them out of the front yard and have way less that in previous years. I bought a duster to use on the lawn, nothing is going to help with this seasons numbers of fleas. Oh yes, got 1 apple per tree, only 4 peaches on two trees? Of course I applied to the trees! It does kill the black power on my gardenia. I guess it is trial and error?...See Moregardenfanatic2003
8 years agoewwmayo
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agoewwmayo
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agozzackey
8 years agoewwmayo
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agozzackey
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agoDave
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agoDave
8 years agojessroe1
3 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDES15 Ideas to Try in Your Garden This Year
These gardening stories were tops among Houzz readers. Which ideas might you try this year?
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESWhat’s in a Name? See 6 Wildflowers That Aren’t ‘Weeds’ at All
Dispel the stereotypes of weeds and try these wildlife-supporting native wildflowers in your garden
Full Story
EARTH DAYThe Case for Losing the Traditional Lawn
Work less, help the environment and foster connections by just saying no to typical turf
Full Story
GREEN DECORATINGBamboo Products — Earth Friend or Foe?
The ecofriendliness of this grass for flooring, wall coverings and furniture isn't cut and dried. Get the facts here
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESTree Care: Common Tree Diseases and What to Do About Them
Learn to recognize trees that may be affected by diseases or pests so you can quickly take action
Full Story
SUMMER FRUITS AND VEGETABLESHow to Grow Your Own Fresh, Sweet Corn
Here's how to plant and care for your own mini cornfield
Full Story
EARTH DAYHow to Build a Greener Driveway
Install a permeable driveway to keep pollutants out of water sources and groundwater levels balanced
Full Story
GARDENING AND LANDSCAPINGBid Bad Garden Bugs Goodbye and Usher In the Good
Give ants their marching orders and send mosquitoes moseying, while creating a garden that draws pollinators and helpful eaters
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESHow to Switch to an Organic Landscape Plan
Ditch the chemicals for a naturally beautiful lawn and garden, using living fertilizers and other nontoxic treatments
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDES6 Steps to Creating Your Butterfly Garden
Encourage these fanciful winged beauties to visit your garden while helping restore their fragmented habitat
Full Story
ewwmayo