New to the forum, and have a question
liono9_zone6b
8 years ago
Hello everybody , first post, for almost a year I have been reading and researching conifers, read designing with conifers and gardening with conifers cover to cover.
I have finally marked two beds to plant this spring, one for dwarfs in front of house and one huge bed alongside property line .
My question is that the property line has huge pine trees , they block sun till noon and from noon to sundown it's unobstructed sunlight , is that a problem or it'll work ?
This location gets windy during winters but not horribly. There is a healthy deer herd also which usually pass through here.
Any suggestions to what will work best here? I'm ready to put up s deer fence if I have to .
This is bed number 2
Moss stones in place, I have ordered some plants from conifer kingdom , I'll post progress .
Planted this guy 2 years back, Cedrus atlantica glauca.
im new to conifers, any help is appreciated ,
Farrukh
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Comments (26)
Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoRelated Discussions
New to this forum, I have a question!
Comments (1)I hope this helps Bear Here is a link that might be useful: Brachyglottis rotundifolia...See MoreHi..new to this forum..I have a question
Comments (3)"Dinnerplate" is an old term still used by big commercial - usually catalog places that don't know any better- to denote the size of the bloom. It used to be the AA sized blooms-- 10" & above. The term referred to the fact that the plants put out blooms that were large across but really shallow. The AA sized blooms brought out in the last 20 or so years are NOT referred to as dinnerplates as they are almost as deep as they are wide- in fact, when we AA dahlia hybridizers hear that term used by a retailer of dahlias it really sets our teeth on edge as they are most likely selling flat, AA sized dahlias to the poor unsuspecting public who then try to show them & wonder why they don't win in any show! Bah! It also gripes me when catalogs come out saying a dahlia is "exclusive" to that catalog when it's been on the open market for upwards of 15 years! (Whew- glad I got that rant out of my system!)...See MoreQuestion on precooled lilies
Comments (4)Even if you live in cold zones, if you buy bulbs in the Spring you buy "pre-cooled" bulbs. Most sellers don't make a note of this - since customers don't need the info. for the bulbs to grow (in the Spring). I usually find the phrase with wholesalers or relatively inexpensive retail mailorder sellers of bulbs - where they take literature provided by the wholesaler without adding their own editing. I'll find the exact same wording and photos at a number of sellers who obviously have the same bulb source. For Fall planting you DO NOT want "pre-cooled" bulbs (unless you are forcing them indoors or in a greenhouse). You are either in a cold enough zone for nature to vernalize the bulbs or in warmer zones you need to wait til spring to plant them. At this point you could take the bulbs and refrigerate them to tide them over until spring. Even the sprouted bulbs, as long as you don't freeze them. It should inhibit more growth and they can restart in the Spring. Putting them in the ground now may also work if the bulbs aren't too small. The warm weather now will, unfortunately, encourage additional growth (using up some of the bulbs energy) that will be killed when it gets colder (before it can fully leaf out and photosynthesize long enough to build the bulb up). The cold weather will then vernalize the now smaller (depleted) bulb. But bulbs store a great deal of energy. As long as they are not too small the now vernalized bulb should sprout again in the spring. Sometimes a stressed bulb will skip a season so even if they don't sprout this spring they may come back the year after. (I had that with "forgotten" bulbs I planted in August one year.) Good Luck, -Helen...See MoreTree planting question - Silver maples
Comments (7)Silver maples are one of my favorite trees for natural woodland landscapes, wildlife value, general hardiness, quick growth and shade, ease of growing from seed, ease of transplanting saplings, massive leaf production for fall collection and composting for the vegetable gardens, firewood, and sap harvesting for syrup. I have around 45 of them on my property and they suit my needs just fine, and I would never want to go without them. That being said, they are one of the worst varieties to use as a landscape tree in an urban environment. The exception is if a person only intends on owning a certain piece of real estate for fifteen or twenty years and wants some quick shade or to have an established tree on-site to add value to the property at the time of eventual resale. The next owner will then be the one who has to deal with all the major negatives of having a maturing tree of this variety on the property. Many house-hunters are ignorant of tree varieties and will not even think to consider potential tree issues when buying a house. They will see a healthy tree in its prime, putting out wonderful shade, and will only see it as a positive feature of the property. Caveat emptor. The negatives of this variety include relatively short lifespan (for a tree), exposed roots, shallow root balls making mature trees susceptible to uprooting and blow-down, perpetual shedding of small branches, lots of dripping sap in spring (attracts flies, dirties house siding, windows and lawn furniture, and is not good for automobile paint), brittle main branches susceptible to breakage due to snow or ice load, very soft wood susceptible to wound rot and insect damage, suckering at the base of the trunk, profuse amounts of bud scales and finished blooms everywhere in spring during the budding-out process, and profuse seed production in early summer that quickly clogs roof gutters and creates volunteers everywhere (and I mean EVERYWHERE - even in the gutters if not properly cleaned out)....See Moreliono9_zone6b
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
beverlymnz4
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoliono9_zone6b
8 years agoKen I'm planning to put some more Eley hose reels on a post, I already have one almost reaching the bed , I plan to put couple more this year.
Ive outlined the bed, here are some pics
My house was the builders house who developed this development, he was putting the top soil from other houses in his yard i.e. my yard, it's generally clay though . Thanks for the guide, I'll take all the help, first one for the back bed
Farrukh
tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
8 years agoliono9_zone6b
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoliono9_zone6b
8 years ago
bengz6westmd
8 years agoplantkiller_il_5
8 years agoliono9_zone6b
8 years agoHi everyone, made some progres, planted picea abies cupressina and chamaecyparis nootkatensis green arrow.
Son was a big help today, he's off to college in fall, I better fill up this bed soon.Many more to go.
Farrukh
wisconsitom
8 years agostuartlawrence (7b L.I. NY)
6 years agoliono9_zone6b
6 years ago
Ken said plant away than mulch all summer, 30 yards so far and still a lot to go, thanks everybody for taking time and helping me do this.
Farrukh
Linda's Garden z6 Utah
6 years ago
Garen Rees
6 years agoliono9_zone6b
6 years agoplantkiller_il_5
6 years ago
liono9_zone6b
6 years ago
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liono9_zone6bOriginal Author