I open them sometimes. If cuttings show signs of wanting to get moldy, or if moisture looks excessive. The fresh air doesn't hurt them. I move them from rooting in the bag, to clear cups with vermiculite in them, to finish developing a good root system before moving to 1 gallon with 60% perlite, 40% compost potting mix. Pix are in several previous posts on rooting.

Bass, Can I assume that when you say "moss" you mean peat (peat moss) and not New Zealand sphagnum moss (the expensive stuff, probably hard to find) or decorative "green moss" (not sphagnum)? Sorry to nitpick, but all the different names we use can confuse people! By the way, has anyone ever tried using sphagnum (the NZ stuff), maybe even 100% as a rooting medium (other than for air-layering)? It can be very easily made barely moist but not wet. It's also supposed to have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. If nothing else it might make a nice but expensive substitute for paper in bag rooting experiments. If one is short on metal hangers (do they sell them much anymore?), bamboo stakes or fragments of them make good frameworks for plastic bags.

Yes, it's me. I suppose after spending over 5 years on this hobby, rose propagation is no longer a novelty. What you refer to was Aerocloning popular here a while ago. I think it's fun to play with all sorts of toys as we get pleasure out of doing them rather than getting the high sucess rate. All the pampering we tend to do to get them strike roots eventually fail at the end to create really healthy and tough plants that will grow well into the future. I have done so much rooting and budding with rootstocks. Eventually I got to the stage where every time I budded a rose, I knew within 20 seconds if the job is sucessful or not by judging the look of it. But then nature eludes me at the end. I can get 100% sucess rate but only some of the plants would peform amazingly well. And they would likely outperform commercial roses. The rest get given away or trashed.

PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet.