Question about Furniture Painting, Dry Brushing - Glazing - Floetrol

5 years ago

I really hope I can explain this question properly. I've asked a couple of in store "professionals" and they clearly did not understand what I was actually asking.

I'm getting ready to paint some furniture in a couple of days. I've already cleaned and primed it but I stalled because I couldn't decide on a color/colors and on a technique. I finally have figured out the look/colors I want and have done a practice board. I'm ready! Almost.

The technique I have chosen is a smooth, sprayed opaque medium gray with a lighter tint of the same color (I think 30% is what I tested) drybrushed lightly over the entire surface. My drybrushing is pretty decent on medium sized areas but when it comes to corners/detail and also very large horizontal surfaces, I find it a little difficult to work quickly enough to keep the look uniform. It is far easier for me to make the top color in to a glaze, giving me lots of time to get it just right before it begins to dry.

My question(s) regard whether or not I will need to polyacrylic over everything once finished. On the one hand, I know if I use a high quality furniture enamel it will be fine on its own, but once I thin it with glaze, I'm guessing that it won't be a durable finish. Is that correct?

Secondly, if that is correct and I'm going to need to spray a poly top coat, is it necessary to use a high dollar paint? I'm not talking about going crazy cheap under, but since it'll have a couple coats of poly on top, do I really need the first coat to be such a high quality enamel? It'll never experience any wear with the glaze coat and the two polys on top, correct? Wouldn't a decent eggshell/satin latex work just as well?

Thirdly, would thinning the drybrush coat be best accomplished with mixing glaze or just floetral? The point is to keep it open so I can make sure it's even (no start/stop marks). Is one better than the other for any reason?

Thanks in advance!

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